Rust issues with R1concept rotors
Originally Posted by RXM
Just wanted to update everyone with pictures of what we were referring to. The rust around the hat is very very bad...and this is after one rain storm. So what you are suggesting is to sand off all that rust, and then use hightemp paint to prevent that area from rusting again?
Originally Posted by Gilley
The front bolts, and maybe the rears, also have loctite.
.I will say though, as soon as I figured out that I should turn the wheels all the way out, the bolts came off with no problems at all.
Originally Posted by richiesays
That is pretty bad. looks like painting them black makes it look better, especially brings out the slits and cross drilled holes.
I removed my brake pads this weekend. There was no sign of contamination from the paint on my rotors, and I painted them with the caliper still surrounding them. Wet paint contacted the pads with no ill effect. All the paint wore off the pads and rotors.
Curious but any particular high temp paint to use on the entire rotor? And how long do you think it would be before all the paint wears off? I really like the look. Thanks!
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Atlanta, GA
I'm sticking up for the R1 rotors. I've had mine for well over a year and a half - about 15K miles of use. Combined with steel braided lines and Hawk HPS pads the car stops like you are dropping an anchor. Yes they rust after getting wet, but after I drive a very short distance all of the rust is gone. Mine still look close to new. When I wear these out, I will buy another set without hesitation.
Originally Posted by kevkel
I'm sticking up for the R1 rotors. I've had mine for well over a year and a half - about 15K miles of use. Combined with steel braided lines and Hawk HPS pads the car stops like you are dropping an anchor. Yes they rust after getting wet, but after I drive a very short distance all of the rust is gone. Mine still look close to new. When I wear these out, I will buy another set without hesitation.
Hi kevkel, thanks for the
. Just send over a pm when ever you need antoher set. I always take care of my returning customers!
I sprayed a buddy's R1 rotors and costed all the holes, slots, and vane openings before installing them. The paint wears off instantly at the pad contact area and doesn't contaminate the pads at all.
I liked the results so much, I sprayed my 2 piece 15 inch Rotora rotors all over before installing them. The Rotoras, as with any good rotor, will also rust. Here's a pic. The paint wears off and leaves a nice black color where it should. I used 500 degree or 1200 degree ceramic paint from the auto parts store.
I liked the results so much, I sprayed my 2 piece 15 inch Rotora rotors all over before installing them. The Rotoras, as with any good rotor, will also rust. Here's a pic. The paint wears off and leaves a nice black color where it should. I used 500 degree or 1200 degree ceramic paint from the auto parts store.
Originally Posted by n1cK
i leave you guys alone for one night, and see that this thread has evolved into something that....well, i don't know what!
RXM, i don't know where that ring comes from on the rotor surface! the brake pad should still make contact at that point. the pad should make contact with the ENTIRE rotor surface.
for those wondering, what Q45tech is talking about, is that the rotor is a surface transfer area...meaning that as the pad/rotor is heated, there is a surface transfer FROM the pad, TO the rotor. this material is pretty much half of what determines your stopping power (because it IS the pad, ie-street pad or racing compound). i wouldn't feel very comfortable painting the surface of the rotor (the pad contact surface) as i don't know what that would do (contamination wise) to the transfer area and the pad itself. in addition, if you paint the inside of the holes, you must keep in mind that over time, the rotor will begin to get thinner, and the pad will hit this new paint.
RXM, i don't know where that ring comes from on the rotor surface! the brake pad should still make contact at that point. the pad should make contact with the ENTIRE rotor surface.
for those wondering, what Q45tech is talking about, is that the rotor is a surface transfer area...meaning that as the pad/rotor is heated, there is a surface transfer FROM the pad, TO the rotor. this material is pretty much half of what determines your stopping power (because it IS the pad, ie-street pad or racing compound). i wouldn't feel very comfortable painting the surface of the rotor (the pad contact surface) as i don't know what that would do (contamination wise) to the transfer area and the pad itself. in addition, if you paint the inside of the holes, you must keep in mind that over time, the rotor will begin to get thinner, and the pad will hit this new paint.
Some clarifying details
The rotors are cast and machined - then e-coated. After that they are ground to flatness and thickness specs - the ground area is wider than the pad swept area hence the inner portion not getting rubbed clean.
OEM rotors likely have the inner surface cut back a bit so that the grinding does not remove the coating in this area. It is very common for aftermarket rotors to not have this recess hence the wider ground surface and rust ring.
And Q45 is exactly correct. Brake pads develop a transfer layer on the surface of the rotor - that is what stops the car. Specifically it is adherent friction - not abrasive friction. If it were abrasive consider how fast your pads would wear out. (think chalk on a chalk board)
The rest of the rotor just absorbs and removes heat - the quality of the iron and vane design has some influence on how well it does this and how long it lasts doing it. Cheaper rotors have poorer microstructure - less carbon and other alloys - and less finish machiing steps such as chamfers on edges etc.
And if you get your rotors hot enough - no coating will survive - brakes on track easily get over 1000 deg F - way more than any surface coating. (they genereally are good to 500ish deg F at best)
Rust is pretty ugly - but there is not a huge amount you can do about it without regular work to keep it at bay. You r call if you think that is worth it.
Last thing
YOu may like the look of drilled rotors - but THEY ARE 100% AN APPEARANCE MOD. And there is a cost to them - the rotors are much more prone to cracking - especially on cars such as the early G/Z where the brakes are marginal to begin with. They can increase pad wear. And they generally run hotter as you interrupt the in to out flow of air through the vanes.
YOu may like the look of drilled rotors - but THEY ARE 100% AN APPEARANCE MOD. And there is a cost to them - the rotors are much more prone to cracking - especially on cars such as the early G/Z where the brakes are marginal to begin with. They can increase pad wear. And they generally run hotter as you interrupt the in to out flow of air through the vanes.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Guelph, ON
thumbs up
I've been using r1concepts slotted rotors and a set of pads from them for about 8 months now... I painted them rotor grooves black to avoid the rust issues.
So far so good, couldn't be more happy. The OEM replacements for my Brembos was waaaaaay too much, so I can't say enough good things about r1concepts.
Annu
So far so good, couldn't be more happy. The OEM replacements for my Brembos was waaaaaay too much, so I can't say enough good things about r1concepts.
Annu
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Guelph, ON
Originally Posted by RST531
^^pixs pixs!!!
Gilley's pix are pretty good
Just imagine a gold caliper and take the cross-drilled holes out. LOL