Guess my question got answered Anyone know the torque settings for the sedan brakes?

 

Hey RXM, Thanks for starting this post, you are a understanding customer and im glad we got this resolved. That is why i love this community, you get much support and answers to your problem. To the moderators reading this, i've sent an email to become a sponsor. That way i dont break any rules by this thread.

 

Hey Sam,

I'm just an understanding guy. I've been around long enough to know that you don't get anywhere by getting angry and yelling at people. Its just not the way things work. You get more with honey than you do vineger.

I'm glad that you decided to post on the board and help come to some resolution with this situation. Customer service is top notch! Is it possible that if I order future rotors that you can pre-spray them with either zinc or high temp paint and I'll pay you the extra charge? This might be worthwhile for me to do.

 

Well, here's the problem. The premium rotors that we offered have are Ecoated black on the hubs as well as the inner vents. If we were to zinc the rotors after the Black Ecoating, the zinc could easily peel off on top of the Ecoat. However, there would be zinc throughout the entire surface of the rotor. IMHO, it looks a little ugly.

Some have asked if we don't Ecoat the rotors black and just zinc plate the rotors. We can't because the rotors come standard with the black. In addition, I must differentiate between our rotors. We have two product lines, the Elines and the Premiums. The Elines are the inexpensive zinc plated rotors. The premiums come with the black ecoating and a stronger casting.

I want to point out that the post on page 2 of the thread of the post is misleading. Filanj had actually linked you guys to the Eline rotors. The premium rotors that we have are here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R1-PR...7121QQtcZphoto

So, be happy that you all got a good deal. Besides the rust issue, can you guys chime in on the performance?

 

i leave you guys alone for one night, and see that this thread has evolved into something that....well, i don't know what!

RXM, i don't know where that ring comes from on the rotor surface! the brake pad should still make contact at that point. the pad should make contact with the ENTIRE rotor surface.

for those wondering, what Q45tech is talking about, is that the rotor is a surface transfer area...meaning that as the pad/rotor is heated, there is a surface transfer FROM the pad, TO the rotor. this material is pretty much half of what determines your stopping power (because it IS the pad, ie-street pad or racing compound). i wouldn't feel very comfortable painting the surface of the rotor (the pad contact surface) as i don't know what that would do (contamination wise) to the transfer area and the pad itself. in addition, if you paint the inside of the holes, you must keep in mind that over time, the rotor will begin to get thinner, and the pad will hit this new paint.

 

well that's good...as long as they came off after a couple of spins!

 

The slots in the rotor will clean off any paint on the rotor that is not turned to dust. It's really no different than clearing the rust or zinc coating off the rotors, other than it is paint and not iron oxide. The little amount of paint that the pads will encounter in the holes as the rotors wear is nothing. Just apply a light coat of paint. A 1/4 inch buildup of paint isn't necessary and probably isn't a good idea.

 

Hey Nick...the pads do not make contact with that patch of rust at all. I'm using Hawk HPS pads and they do not reach that area and hence that is why it is not coming off when I drive.

I was planning on scrubbing down the rotors and applying two thin layers of high temp paint to it to keep it from rusting. As you can tell, it's very unslightly and embarassing to see on the car

 

man, that sucks. on the stock brembo's, the pad makes contact with the entire rotor surface.

as for the paint, well....i guess we know on where i stand on that. but make sure that you do a proper bed in process! refer to stoptech's instructions for stock sized brakes.

 

In regards to the paint on the rotors, I know where you stand and I can see why. But I'm also sure you wouldn't want your rotors to rust like mine did I think what I'm going to do is paint the rotors and then do the bed in procedure. After that, I'm going to switch to project mu or endless pads and see how that works out.

 

I feel that I stop better with these rotors than stock oem. Also, I don't get that horrible squeal associated with oem brakes which is a HUGE plus and brought a even bigger grin to my face when I come to stops.

I don't sense any slippage when I go to apply the brakes. I give the performance 2 thumbs up.

 

I remember My uncle used to do this on his car while I was little. I think they look nicer painted...good job.

 

Well I'm glad i've been too busy to install my rotors and got a chance to read this thread. Thanks for all the good info Gilley. I'll be sure to paint them before install.

Just to be sure before i do it, I just paint the whole thing?

 

Does Anyone Know How Much the R1 Rotors weigh, Front and rears?

 

Yes you're gonna have to paint the whole thing, make sure the paint is really dry before you put them on. The brake pads will scrape the paint anyway...