what happens if i just let it leak? (that's what i'm doing now). i realize it's going to fail some time down the road - but fail how, exactly? is my rear diff gonna fall out of the car, or something like that?

i've read that SPL makes the vibration audible from inside the car (being a solid piece) - not too happy about that.

 

I'll let you know. I just got an SPL one yesterday. Going to put it on in a few weeks.

 

2.5 year later from the original post, and i still haven't replaced the bushing, and don't really see any problems with the car. i haven't experienced the "wheel hop" others talked about in https://g35driver.com/forums/sfl-g-c...op-anyone.html - so i'm just going to keep driving the car as it is.

 

It's a harmonic dampener as well as a vibration isolator. Most of the load is being carried by the two main diff mounts. You won't normally get the wheel hops unless doing aggressive standing launches.

This bump reminds me I should check mine. Can't believe my G is 6 years old! But still going strong and kicking ****.

 

you forgot "and taking names." indeed, i need to actually check mine as well.

 

Mine leaked out last year but I havent noticed any real problems since. I am contemplating changing to the SPL solid bushing.

Ttrank - you installed it yet? If so, how is NVH?

 

Anyone know if there are any companies making polyurethane bushings to replace these with? I think that would be a good middle ground. I really don't want to go with solid diff bushings. I like the quiet feel of the car.

 

Nope, I haven't ever replaced mine. I have been so busy between work and house stuff that I haven't ever installed it.

 

ok here is what i found for possible replacments.. SPL solid bushing, rpm06g35 makes his own solid bushing or http://performanceshock.com/noltec/e...unt-rear-p-801

now as far as replacing it, i read on my350z that someone used a hammer to press the old one out and solid one in (not proper way but it may work), to properly install you should removed rear subframe and use press to remove, and also a tip is to replace subframe bushings at that time too with whiteline ones. as far as driving with a leaking one, shouldn't leave you stranded but could create flex in the differential leading to wheel have and more wear and tear on other components.

here is a image that shows the subframe where the bushing is, but no part number for the bushing itself.

 

I replaced all three and noticed a tiny bit more noise but I did notice that the rear end was more planted.

with those bushings bad, the rear end will shift from side to side under load and cause stress on all of the other bushings on your rear suspension.

I did a test on this before I replaced the bushings. I used a prybar and and moved the diff from side to side and the entire rear end moved!

You can get the old bushing out without dropping the subframe but it takes a while(a lot of hammering)

But I did notice right away the difference in the way the car responded after I was done.

Good luck guys!

 

so worthwhile to do then?

how difficult was it to get the new one in? Did you pound it in with a hammer and if so, from rear side or front side?

 

After you drop your exhaust you have plenty of room to pound it out from the rear(haha sounds perverted). SPL provides a punch to help get it out. However, I recommend that you try to cut the sleeve to try and make it a little easier to get it out

 

Repeat to post #37.....

 

There is not a urethane replacement. Just the solid aluminum.

But to be honest with you, theres not a lot of extra noise in the cabin after the install. You have a better feel of the drivetrain with your hand on the shifter(if 6mt) and the noise is truly not that noticeable

 

I'm wondering how much difference there is with room between SEDAN/COUPE. Coupe seems to have more room because of that freakin' suitcase of a muffler. Drop that out of the way and it seems that you guys might have more room than the sedans....unless you are a sedan. LMK.