SEDAN - Decided to put my Z springs on the back (vs coupe springs)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by 04NismoV35
Everything your saying is promising. I can't wait to do mine. The only difference is that I have a full Z susp w/ shocks/stuts. I wonder how different it will feel from yours.
Just put on full Z stock suspension for my 06 sedan. Ride quality is very similar although I feel as if I can take corners a little tighter w/o the floating characteristics I was getting last time. Car is obviously lower as seen below.
I personally prefer the look of the rear with the Z springs, i hate those lowered cars that are nose heavy. i find the z springs all around give the car a more european look like the 3 series beamers with their lower rear wheel arches.
Originally Posted by DaveB
The reason they're better is because the strut housings are about 1" shorter therefore giving you 1" more wheel travel. That additional wheel travel will go a long way in improving ride quality over rutted/broken surfaces.
Originally Posted by marty315
Just put on full Z stock suspension for my 06 sedan. Ride quality is very similar although I feel as if I can take corners a little tighter w/o the floating characteristics I was getting last time.
Originally Posted by STLTHSDN
I personally prefer the look of the rear with the Z springs, i hate those lowered cars that are nose heavy. i find the z springs all around give the car a more european look like the 3 series beamers with their lower rear wheel arches.
Originally Posted by 04NismoV35
Sure, If I end up not using them. I might want to hold on to them for a while to play around though.
Originally Posted by DaveB
It turns out that the Z springs have a stiffer rate therefore they don't compress as easily as the coupe springs.
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
Just posting this to provide information for more informed choices.
NOTE!: Any aftermarket 350Z spring will lower a coupe a additional ½” over and beyond the published drop amount for the 350Z. For sedan owners, the same applies to you, except you will gain a additional 1”, not just ½”
Oem springs
G35 coupes with oem 17’s & 18’s
G35 sedan’s with sport suspension
350Z’s 2003/2004
Front:314 Rear:342
Oem springs
G35 sedan's with non sport
Front: 283 Rear: 308
Oem springs
G35 coupes 2005/2006 with oem 19’s only
350Z 2004.5 to 2006
Front:314 Rear:427
NOTE!: Any aftermarket 350Z spring will lower a coupe a additional ½” over and beyond the published drop amount for the 350Z. For sedan owners, the same applies to you, except you will gain a additional 1”, not just ½”
Oem springs
G35 coupes with oem 17’s & 18’s
G35 sedan’s with sport suspension
350Z’s 2003/2004
Front:314 Rear:342
Oem springs
G35 sedan's with non sport
Front: 283 Rear: 308
Oem springs
G35 coupes 2005/2006 with oem 19’s only
350Z 2004.5 to 2006
Front:314 Rear:427
I've been on '05 revised Z suspension for over 2 yrs and I've noticed that if you load the sedan trunk with over 40-50lbs the ride on highway is surprisingly smoother on smooth/bumps/expansion joints than the regular sedan sport suspension.
Amazing the way things after you have actually tried something. Mark #2 for the 2nd time you have done this.
Originally Posted by DaveB
I've been running Z springs in the front and coupe springs in the rear for about 1.5 years (maybe longer). I put the coupe springs on the back because I had assumed the ride quality would be better and the coupe springs balance the drop since they're longer than the Z springs. Last night I was bored and decided to swap on the Z springs to see what the difference the ride quality, handling, etc would be running a full Z spring swap vs the half/half set up many of us are doing.
First, I measured the rear gap on G with coupe springs. It was about .7" with a 1/4 fuel, spare, and 40lbs of tools and softball gear. After about 10 minutes with two jacks, an 18" breaker bar, rachet, a 17mm socket, and a 17mm wrench, I had a coupe spring out. I measured the difference in height, spring gauge, and coil gap. The coupe spring is roughly .6" longer than the Z spring, is about .1" narrow in gauge, and has about an additional .6 coil. I swapped in the Z spring and moved to the other side and did the same. After lowering the car off the jacks, I was surprised to see that the gaps were about 1.5" on both sides
I figured it was because of the torque load on the chassis and drivetrain after jacking up the car twice and that the car would equalize after driving for a few seconds. I rolled down the street then got out and inspected the gap. To my surprise, the gap was the exact same as the coupe springs! I drove around for an hour and tried to note the difference in handling, ride quality, etc. This is about I've noticed:
1) Ride quality is the same on most surfaces. Pavement cuts are slightly more harsh
2) Ride height in the same (measured yesterday and today after 50 miles of driving)
3) Transitional handling is quicker, less initial lean, less bouncy (nothing major)
4) Overall ride is more controlled.
First, I measured the rear gap on G with coupe springs. It was about .7" with a 1/4 fuel, spare, and 40lbs of tools and softball gear. After about 10 minutes with two jacks, an 18" breaker bar, rachet, a 17mm socket, and a 17mm wrench, I had a coupe spring out. I measured the difference in height, spring gauge, and coil gap. The coupe spring is roughly .6" longer than the Z spring, is about .1" narrow in gauge, and has about an additional .6 coil. I swapped in the Z spring and moved to the other side and did the same. After lowering the car off the jacks, I was surprised to see that the gaps were about 1.5" on both sides
I figured it was because of the torque load on the chassis and drivetrain after jacking up the car twice and that the car would equalize after driving for a few seconds. I rolled down the street then got out and inspected the gap. To my surprise, the gap was the exact same as the coupe springs! I drove around for an hour and tried to note the difference in handling, ride quality, etc. This is about I've noticed:1) Ride quality is the same on most surfaces. Pavement cuts are slightly more harsh
2) Ride height in the same (measured yesterday and today after 50 miles of driving)
3) Transitional handling is quicker, less initial lean, less bouncy (nothing major)
4) Overall ride is more controlled.
Originally Posted by G35_TX
Amazing the way things after you have actually tried something. Mark #2 for the 2nd time you have done this.
Any chance at getting this in ENGLISH?
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
To clarify, the z springs should not be any stiffer. Taken from the sticky in the suspension thread(https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65190):
One thing I have noticed recently is there is additional lateral movement at higher speeds when I hit rutted highway surfaces. Basically the back end is more twitchy. I really don't like that trait and it reminds a lot of what my 96 Maxima would do which is a nasty trait of beam axle suspensions which the 95-03 Maximas have. It's intersting that a IRS exhibits similiar behavior.
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by G35_TX
Amazing the way things after you have actually tried something. Mark #2 for the 2nd time you have done this.




