Front brake job - What else do I need to have?

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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Front brake job - What else do I need to have?

Hi folks - I'm thinking about doing my first brake job on my 2004 sedan (non-Brembo). I have ordered Hawk HPS pads and generic rotors. Is there *any* other parts, pieces, shims, clips, springs, magic lube, etc that I will also need to have on hand?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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Brake fluid
 
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Index the rotors [with a dial gauge] per proceedure in FSM to make sure it meets 0.0028" maximum runout.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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Nothing else, but be advised that you may not be so thrilled with the Hawk HPS pads. My experience with them on my previous car has been less than stellar. Yes they dust less and resist fade well, but their cold bite, especially when wet, was kind of scary.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Thanks for all the tips!

I am aware that the Hawks may not have the same braking performance as the OEMs, but I'm sick of:

1. Brake squeal. Right now, my car sounds like a school bus coming to a stop.

2. Brake grab. A problem from day one. Lord, if my mother ever drive this car, she would throw the passengers through the dash.

3. Dust. Not a super big issue for me, but annoying nevertheless
 
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Noremac
Thanks for all the tips!

I am aware that the Hawks may not have the same braking performance as the OEMs, but I'm sick of:

1. Brake squeal. Right now, my car sounds like a school bus coming to a stop.

2. Brake grab. A problem from day one. Lord, if my mother ever drive this car, she would throw the passengers through the dash.

3. Dust. Not a super big issue for me, but annoying nevertheless
I'm pretty happy with my Project-Mu type-NS pads... hardly any squeel, less dust, very good initial bite, and much smoother braking...

I was too scared to try the Hawks, because I had those on my other car, and the cold bite was terrible. I would always accidently blow through the stop sign near my house.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 09:30 AM
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i had the hawks, they were good until i submerged the rotor in 2 inches of water and my car turned into a jet ski...
 
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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The only problem is if you ever rearend or hit something you won't blame yourself for chosing non oem pads and loosing 5-10 feet of panic stopping distance.

"Brake grab. A problem from day one. Lord, if my mother ever drive this car, she would throw the passengers through the dash."

Brake Assist was thought to be a good safety addition.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
Brake Assist was thought to be a good safety addition.
Agree. I love Brake Assist, and the car used it once on me. But what I was talking about was the non-linear response of the OEM pads. You press the pedal down about 20% of the way, and all of a sudden you get about 70% braking force. I only took me about 3 times to modify my foot input function to compensate, but some people (sorry, mom) just don't have the motor skills to ever get there.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Noremac
Agree. I love Brake Assist, and the car used it once on me. But what I was talking about was the non-linear response of the OEM pads. You press the pedal down about 20% of the way, and all of a sudden you get about 70% braking force. I only took me about 3 times to modify my foot input function to compensate, but some people (sorry, mom) just don't have the motor skills to ever get there.
Sucks even more, when you drive more than one car... When ever I switch from driving the G, to my normal daily driver, I seem to always think my brakes are busted the first few times...
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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CRC Brakekleen or equivalent to help clean up baked in brake dust on calipers.
Oil change pan to do the above and catch drippings.
Small steel or brass brushes (set of 3 $2.99 at home depot) to help scrub baked on brake dust out of caliper.
Safety glasses.
Some heavy cord or wire to string up caliper while being worked on---you don't want to hang the caliper by the brake hose!
Caliper paint to dress up calipers (if you have the time to let it dry thoroughly).
Small tube of permatex anti-seize compound to dab sparingly in the caliper grooves that locate the pads.
Small tube of Permatex anti-squeal compound to coat the pad backing plates. Do this first before anything else to allow ample time to dry.
Torque wrench to properly torque the large bolts that hold the caliper carriers (shop manual calls them torque members) to the suspension @ 113-114 ft-lbs. I needed a cheater pipe to get leverage over what a standard rachet would give me.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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That is what brake assist is press 30% get 70% response [100% would be better].

The least expensive way to get brake assist is with special non linear ramp up friction pads........all mechanical, no expensive electronics, or pumps needed or to fail.

Change pad compounds AND LOSE some or all BRAKE ASSIST that simple.
 

Last edited by Q45tech; Jul 31, 2007 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
That is what brake assist is press 30% get 70% response [100% would be better].
You sure? I thought brake assist was:

1.) In a panic situation, and you slam on the brakes, then even if you slightly ease on the pressure, the ECU will maintain maximum pressure.
2.) Based on rate of pedal pressure application, (ie, you slam on the brakes), then regardless how hard you actually press the brakes, the ECU applies 100% force to the brakes.

What you describe, just sounds like ordinary power brakes.
 

Last edited by avs007; Jul 31, 2007 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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AVS - I have the same understand that you have. And so does Infiniti, apparantly! From their website:

Brake Assist (BA)
In emergency braking situations, some drivers may not brake hard enough, soon enough. Brake Assist monitors how you apply the brakes and, sensing emergency braking, works with the standard ABS system to apply maximum brake pressure for potentially shorter stops.
 
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