mix and match springs?
Originally Posted by dovla
But both OEM G and Z springs are linear, and so are s-tech rear springs.
Originally Posted by dovla
Shorter spring will bottom out sooner, but I don’t see how is stiffness affected until it bottoms out. Please explain. Thanks
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
s-tech rear springs are linear. So if u go over a small bump or a big pothole u almost are going to feel the same type of vibration inside the car. I read somewhere that linear springs have their full stiffness at all times compare the progressive springs that their stiffness depends on how much the actual spring compresses.
Originally Posted by dovla
OP question was about OEM vs rear Z Tein S-Techs, not vs some progressive springs.
Last edited by Klubbheads; Jul 29, 2007 at 08:16 PM.
Klubbheads, I see now your reasoning. Thanks.
Please do a search on this and my350z sites for posts from, IMO the authority, “Gsedan35” User Name
15 minutes reading can save you … or perhaps I also should switch to GEICO?
Please do a search on this and my350z sites for posts from, IMO the authority, “Gsedan35” User Name
15 minutes reading can save you … or perhaps I also should switch to GEICO?
Originally Posted by dovla
WYSIWYG, hopefully someone more knowledgeable and with more suspension tuning experience will post here.
Lowering the rear of the car, because of weight shift, will be also decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. But I am guessing not much. Some of it can be corrected with front/rear tire pressures and you can always remove the s-tech’s and cut the bump-stops if unhappy. I mean, it doesn’t take much to swap the rear springs and try it since you already have them.
In my case I was trying to dial out understeer, not the look, and it didn’t matter much what I did until after I mount 265/275 F/R tires.
Attached are some of the notes collected on this and other sites that I was using, perhaps they can help.
Lowering the rear of the car, because of weight shift, will be also decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. But I am guessing not much. Some of it can be corrected with front/rear tire pressures and you can always remove the s-tech’s and cut the bump-stops if unhappy. I mean, it doesn’t take much to swap the rear springs and try it since you already have them.
In my case I was trying to dial out understeer, not the look, and it didn’t matter much what I did until after I mount 265/275 F/R tires.
Attached are some of the notes collected on this and other sites that I was using, perhaps they can help.
dovla: Thanks for the doc. Looks like it will be very useful come trial and error time. It will save me a lot of headaches when it comes to figuring out what to do next when it comes time.
-Thanks to all the other posters as well.
Originally Posted by WYSIWYG
1.Anyone out there mix and match their springs?
I have the OEM Z strut/spring setup right now. Need to lower the rear. I have a set of Z Tein S-Techs. Thinking of putting the rears on to even out the drop (need about an inch drop). The fronts are good so I want to keep the OEM Z setup there.
2. I know the spring rates are a little softer on the Teins vs. the revised Z springs in the rear, how would this affect the performance if at all?
3. Any known problems with this?
Thanks in advance.
314/342
314/427
358/375
358/427
448/375
448/427
448/342
375/375
560/448
560/427
Thinking about 650/500 (if I don't sell the car first)
2.No, imperceptible (wheel rate's agree)
3. No
Originally Posted by dovla
But both OEM G and Z springs are linear, and so are s-tech rear springs.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
Where did u get the information regarding your claim???? Why would a luxury car manufacturer put linear springs on a car???? Maybe I am wrong. I searched and couldn't find any information about the stock springs being Linear.
Oem's are linear, sorry I took it for granted that the comminity knew this. I have updated the sticky above to add that little detail in.
If one wanted to split hairs, technically the front springs are progressive. But they do so via changes in outside coil diameter, not wire diameter or by binding coil's. With such a slight change in outside diameter top to bottom the effect on the rates is Minimal. Tein as a example sell's the same type of tapered spring for their Basic coilover, notice that Tein say's that spring is linear, though technically it isn't.
Here is a picture of the Tein tapered spring, if you look closely you can see it's slightly fatter at the top then the bottom.
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
He's telling you the oem's are linear because that is what I discovered way back in 03 when I started collecting oem suspension data points. He tried to point you in that direction in the next thread, though I did a search test just now myself and didn't get a first page answer, sooo.
Oem's are linear, sorry I took it for granted that the comminity knew this. I have updated the sticky above to add that little detail in.
If one wanted to split hairs, technically the front springs are progressive. But they do so via changes in outside coil diameter, not wire diameter or by binding coil's. With such a slight change in outside diameter top to bottom the effect on the rates is Minimal. Tein as a example sell's the same type of tapered spring for their Basic coilover, notice that Tein say's that spring is linear, though technically it isn't.
Here is a picture of the Tein tapered spring, if you look closely you can see it's slightly fatter at the top then the bottom.
Oem's are linear, sorry I took it for granted that the comminity knew this. I have updated the sticky above to add that little detail in.
If one wanted to split hairs, technically the front springs are progressive. But they do so via changes in outside coil diameter, not wire diameter or by binding coil's. With such a slight change in outside diameter top to bottom the effect on the rates is Minimal. Tein as a example sell's the same type of tapered spring for their Basic coilover, notice that Tein say's that spring is linear, though technically it isn't.
Here is a picture of the Tein tapered spring, if you look closely you can see it's slightly fatter at the top then the bottom.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
Thanks for the info. So the only reason that s-techs for G35 feel much more stiffer in the back, eventhough it has almost the same rate as the sport package sedan, is because of the phisycal length of the spring?
All bet's are off if your sense's are telling you that a spring that specs at 274lbs feel's stiffer then a spring that is 342lbs vs saying " I really can't tell if they feel any different". I could pickup on how a 342lbs rear spring felt vs a 427lbs spring, as in how it handled weight transfer and as in at the limit behavior. But, it's your sense's, can't tell you they are giving you the wrong message, I can only relate to my own experience in a simular light.
Springs will have different level's of stiffness by mean's that don't relate to free length. It's about wire diameter, number of active coils and the outside diameter of the coil's themselves.
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