mix and match springs?
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mix and match springs?
Anyone out there mix and match their springs? I have the OEM Z strut/spring setup right now. Need to lower the rear. I have a set of Z Tein S-Techs. Thinking of putting the rears on to even out the drop (need about an inch drop). The fronts are good so I want to keep the OEM Z setup there.
I know the spring rates are a little softer on the Teins vs. the revised Z springs in the rear. How would this affect the performance if at all? Any known problems with this?
Thanks in advance.
I know the spring rates are a little softer on the Teins vs. the revised Z springs in the rear. How would this affect the performance if at all? Any known problems with this?
Thanks in advance.
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Revised OEM 350z rear springs 427 lbs
Tein S-tech 350z rear springs 402 lbs
But, with S-tech’s reduced rear height and therefore weight transferred to the rear, while all other things being equal (shocks, sways, wheels, tires, alignment) I don’t think it would make much difference if any. Dive and squat during braking and accelerating shouldn’t be considerable affected neither.
If you don’t mind occasional bottom scraping, go for it.
Tein S-tech 350z rear springs 402 lbs
Decreasing rear rate springs only: Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer.
If you don’t mind occasional bottom scraping, go for it.
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Thanks for input guys.
I don't know why the Z setup didn't lower my rears at all. It seems like it is higher than stock. I'm down to two options other than going back to stock...
-spring mount mod (can controll how much it lowers).
-install Z s-techs (with the ride height the way it is with the Z setup, I'm assuming it will drop the car another ~0.7 inches as it would in the Z and not like if I was straight installing it on the OEM G setup.
G35brother:
I'll post pics when I can to show the fronts and rears (might take a while) w/ the OEM Z setup.
I don't know why the Z setup didn't lower my rears at all. It seems like it is higher than stock. I'm down to two options other than going back to stock...
-spring mount mod (can controll how much it lowers).
-install Z s-techs (with the ride height the way it is with the Z setup, I'm assuming it will drop the car another ~0.7 inches as it would in the Z and not like if I was straight installing it on the OEM G setup.
G35brother:
I'll post pics when I can to show the fronts and rears (might take a while) w/ the OEM Z setup.
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Because the springs are centered inboard of hub and center of wheel, the real stiffness at the wheel/tire is divided by ~~ 2.5. Ratio of proportion on the mount arm: o......XX......{}
The high rate of unmounted springs fools many into thinking the mounted rate is that number. But a % increase or decrease is a % at the wheels.
The high rate of unmounted springs fools many into thinking the mounted rate is that number. But a % increase or decrease is a % at the wheels.
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Originally Posted by Klubbheads
It will be much stiffer than stock just because the actual spring has less travel (because it is shorter) and I think S-tech rear springs are linear. As far as handling goes, it is all preference.
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
Because the springs are centered inboard of hub and center of wheel, the real stiffness at the wheel/tire is divided by ~~ 2.5. Ratio of proportion on the mount arm: o......XX......{}
Wheel rates for the front of the car can be found by multiplying a spring’s rate by .53 then by .94 for angle correction.
In the rear multiply by .36
In the rear multiply by .36
402*0.53= 213.06*0.36= 76.7016
Now where did this ~2.5 come from and which one to use? Thanks
427/2.5=170.8
402/2.5=160.8
#10
Originally Posted by dovla
Shorter spring will bottom out sooner, but I don’t see how is stiffness affected until it bottoms out. Please explain. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Klubbheads
s-tech rear springs are linear. So if u go over a small bump or a big pothole u almost are going to feel the same type of vibration inside the car. I read somewhere that linear springs have their full stiffness at all times compare the progressive springs that their stiffness depends on how much the actual spring compresses.
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Originally Posted by Klubbheads
s-tech rear springs are linear. So if u go over a small bump or a big pothole u almost are going to feel the same type of vibration inside the car. I read somewhere that linear springs have their full stiffness at all times compare the progressive springs that their stiffness depends on how much the actual spring compresses.
OP question was about OEM vs rear Z Tein S-Techs, not vs some progressive springs.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
It will be much stiffer than stock just because the actual spring has less travel (because it is shorter) and I think S-tech rear springs are linear. As far as handling goes, it is all preference.
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Originally Posted by dovla
Q45tech, I remember your wheel rate discussion with Jim couple years ago, when you guys concluded that:
427*0.53= 226.31*0.36= 81.4716
402*0.53= 213.06*0.36= 76.7016
Now where did this ~2.5 come from and which one to use? Thanks
427/2.5=170.8
402/2.5=160.8
427*0.53= 226.31*0.36= 81.4716
402*0.53= 213.06*0.36= 76.7016
Now where did this ~2.5 come from and which one to use? Thanks
427/2.5=170.8
402/2.5=160.8
Am I correct in assuming that the softer rear will create more understeer in the car? But a 6% difference won't change that too much would it?
I like the way the car runs with the OEM Z setup and Hotchkis Sways. I don't want to change it too much, just that the rear looks like it's lifted due to the gap between the fender and my wheels.
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Originally Posted by WYSIWYG
Am I correct in assuming that the softer rear will create more understeer in the car? But a 6% difference won't change that too much would it?
I like the way the car runs with the OEM Z setup and Hotchkis Sways. I don't want to change it too much, just that the rear looks like it's lifted due to the gap between the fender and my wheels.
I like the way the car runs with the OEM Z setup and Hotchkis Sways. I don't want to change it too much, just that the rear looks like it's lifted due to the gap between the fender and my wheels.
Lowering the rear of the car, because of weight shift, will be also decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. But I am guessing not much. Some of it can be corrected with front/rear tire pressures and you can always remove the s-tech’s and cut the bump-stops if unhappy. I mean, it doesn’t take much to swap the rear springs and try it since you already have them.
In my case I was trying to dial out understeer, not the look, and it didn’t matter much what I did until after I mount 265/275 F/R tires.
Attached are some of the notes collected on this and other sites that I was using, perhaps they can help.
The majority of enthusiasts want a low ride height to fill the ugly gap in their stock wheel wells. They also won't accept a ride that, for the most part, is a lot harsher than stock. Macho or not, most enthusiasts don't drive hard enough or well enough to realize that their cars actually handle worse than stock, mistaking reduced roll for better handling.