I recently purchase the revised 350z front camber kit for my infiniti g35 coupe. On my invoice online it stated my part number was 72125 which I believe is the correct one for my g35. But once I received my package, the packing slip invoice states that the part i received was 72120 which I think is the regular 350z front arms right??

I called the company i got it from because of this, the sales man stated that it was the last one of the 72125 and they are always suppose to keep last items but he decided to just give it to me and change the number to 72120 so that he would be able to sale it. But Im not sure if i really buy it, so long story short.

Is there any way I can figure out if I do have the correct one for my vehicle by looking at the arms? And what is the Difference in the two arms? I ask this because I hear there are lots of issues with the 72120 arms for the g35.

any comments would be greatly appreciate it. I snapped a few photos for you guys as well.


i think its this one.

 

Those are the old arms. They'll still work on the 350z but if you use them on your g35, they may knock depending on how much your car is lowered and how stiff/soft your suspension is.

The new arms angle like \/ instead of like /\ (crude illustration) from the pivot point out to the ball joint as illustrated in you pictures.

I had the old arms which were later replaced with the revised ones.

 

who did you buy them through

 

wow thats really shady of that company if the story is correct. I would raise hell...

 

IMHO I would only put upper arms on a car to get more negative camber out of the front.. like 3-4 degree's...

The 1-2.5 negative camber is perfect for daily driving...

save your self some money and when you see the inside of your tires wearing, go to a wheel place, have them dismount them, flip them, remount them so the inside is on the out side and vice versa...

you will also have better turn in with the negative camber from stock or lowered suspensions...

 

I recently installed these arms. The instructions say to use the supplied nut to fasten the spindle. As in your photo, the supplied nut did not have a flanged seat. Without a washer this is BAD! I did exactly that and IT CAME APART while driving! The nut pulled though the spindle seat. USE THE ORIGINAL NUT if it is undamaged after removal, or use an appropriate washer. After driving around at 60mph+ on country roads my spindle completely separated at about 3mph in a parking lot so I was lucky and had no damage. I was able to correct the problem easily but DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE I MADE! (I did follow the instruction precisely, but the wrong type nut was supplied. I mention this because I can see in your photo YOU ALSO have the wrong type nut supplied!!! Also, when installing, jack up the suspension to normal ride height before torquing the upper A Arm to frame bolts, otherwise the bushings are loaded twisted and after a couple weeks begin squeaking. In spite of these issues I am happy with this product!

 

did u use the pin? to keep it from spinning off?

 

I did install the pin, although the nut seated a bit high from it (because no flange, no washer). That was not the problem however. It didn't spin off, it pulled through. Without a flange the nut is only slightly larger than hole in the bottom of the spindle seat. If you drop your head down enough to look under at it you'll see it but I didn't. I did feel that as I torqued it it felt a little odd so I didn't torque quite as tightly as I should have but that didn't cause the problem either. In retrospect it should have caused me to more closely inspect it.

 

So u highly recommend using the oem nut?

 

Unless you relish the idea of your suspension coming apart while driving, yes, definitely! Using the supplied nut as instructed is highly likely to cause a potentially catastrophic failure as happened to me! I talked to SPC about it and they were very concerned that the arms had shipped with that nut supplied with no washer. I'm surprised to see that people are still receiving them like this as they are mostly drop shipped directly from SPC and they are aware of the problem and therefore should be supplying a flanged nut, a nut and washer, or no nut and instructions to use the oem nut which IS 100% fine for the job.

 

do i need to put any washer with the oem nut?

 

Nope.