I bought these:

http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ng&prodid=2886

 

The spherical ends on the SPL do look more robust compared to Powergrids which look to be simply cast and tapped; I'd go with the SPLs if and when I eventually do so. I don't like the angles created by even my mild drop.

 

The benefit of the Power Grids is they’re sealed… the broken ones in this thread are the first I’ve heard of… I’ve tracked with mine and driven very spirited – lowered quit a bit (for a sedan) and so far no break.

 

ok so im looking into buying the Hotchkis sway bars and just to clarify new endlinks are needed but 05+ endlink will work fine and will solve any issues i might have (unless dropped) over my 04 endlinks also my car is a DD so it will be on the middle setting for front and back if it makes a difference

 

I have the Hotchkis sways with PowerGrid end links. I have mine set on the stiffest setting and mine is a DD as well.

 

I've got a Hotchkis f/r sway bar setup, but I haven't experienced the endlinks breaking; the rear endlink mount has broken before. Is there an aftermarket supplier for better mounts?

 

Good point.

 

is it necessary though to up go after market or will the 05+ ones hold up to the added stiffness

 

Same question.

I am lowered and running Hotchkis sways... do I need aftermarket or will the 05+ "beefier" end links suffice?

 

I can't answer that question, but I figured since I was dumping so much into the suspension already why cut corners on the cheapest parts?

 

I still dont get the Adjustable Endlinks and Camber Toe deal. Thats why I lowered my ride with Tein H tech instead of S tech. I heard lowering your G more than 1 inch could effect the suspension.

Anyways, how the hell you suppose to adjust those enlinks properly. Do they come with a manual? Like adjusting it to certain point depending how low you drop your ride. You know? Instead of guesstimating when adjusting. Like specs from engineers that **** will be done the right way. Checked out what happend to 425skyline Endlinks. I dont think it suppose to do that. That look like the endlink experienced alot of tension from the suspension system.

I might have to talk to one of our performance shop on my area about this type of setup, because Im planning to drop my ride more than 1 inch instead of .60inch in the near future. I just hate going down there, because somtimes I ended up spending alot of green because of those damn sales people.

 

That's really interesting. I looked into these because of all the hype, found the supplier of the ball joints, THK. They have various models which come in differing metals for strenght vs cost purposes. So I'm curious which style PowerGrids went with (cheapest to maximize profit or strongest to justify price)?

Here are some links from THK:
See page 3

Ball link main menu

I looked into this to see if it was possible/cost effective to just build my own using the same THK links as PowerGrid. Looking into it I was going to use the AL series as it had some higher elongation numbers which might prevent breaking in the cast area which really seems like the only weak point of their cast design. If I were to build my own knowing the concern of the cast housing, I would actually seek out a weaker adjustment bolt hoping it would absorb the flex and not translate it into the casting which I assume is what might be happening with the PowerGrids. Those are just my thoughts on it.

 

I think those Endlinks are pretty good. I think if you dont adjust it right it could fail. Thats why Im wondering if theres some kind of manual or measuring tool you could go by to properly adjust them. I figure if youre off one side you can shift alot of stress on the other side causing equipment failure. I think youre pretty much adjusting it blind if you have nothing to go by. Like if you need to tighten a particular bolt you have a torque wrench and torque spec. that you can follow to properly tighten the bolt and also the instruction will limit you from over tightening it damaging the trends.

I dont care how strong and tough your Endlinks are if it's not adjusted properly it will not work in unison with rest of the suspension system. You probably end up transferring the stress on the different parts of the system causing other parts to fail. I think all those parts should be balanced.

 

That is certainly a good direction to look into.

FYI for anyone interested, I was just quoted a price for the AL10 series from THK and it came out to about $40 for four of them to do the rears. I'd still have to source an adjustment bolt though.

 

Damnnn thanks for doing the leg work!! Let us know what you do with the adjustment bolt. It looks like you would just need a threaded rod and two locking nuts.