I don't know why. That's why I was asking. How do you activate your ABS while one is bleeding the brakes. Ala DIY method?

 

The facory service manual specifically staets to disconnect the VDC/ ABs, or negative battery cable, when bleeding also lists the proper order as rt rear, then left front, , left rear, and fnally the rt front. Also with the vehicle sitting still no wheels will be turning at differnet rpm, so ABS would not activate.

 

bringing back an old thread since im going to be bleeding the G's brakes
soon using the griot's extactor and mityvac replenishing bottle...

since im not going to be pumping the brake pedal to do this, i can do
the bleeding while the car is completely turned off right? no need to do
anything. just setup my gear and bleed.

(griot's manual says to turn the car ON and place in "D" , pump the
brakes 2 times or something)... ??

 

You might want to check the service manual for any other tidbits that might relate to the Brembos and the extra bleeder they have on each caliper. I did a band aid job on mine after changing out to stainless lines and then got to the dealer to have them properly flushed and bled.

 

I have never had the car turned un when using the MityVac. Bleed the inner front bleeder first and then the outer.

 

thanks RBull and gilley- huh, let me check the smanual again.

yah, i didn't think i would need to have the car turned on even if
it does have abs. werd.

 

You're welcome and good luck.

 

I think they are referring to activating the ABS pump to get that fluid out of the system when you flush/bleed. But I'd highly recommend deferring to the factory service manual. I'd only assume that the bleeder instructions are generic and not car specific.

 

This Is The Correct Order!!!!

 

i looked through both the maintenance and brake service manuals but
there doesnt seem to be one specific for the brembo's. just says "refer
to BR-10."

so i suppose i'll do this on my brembo's?
RR inner/outer
LF inner/outer
LR inner/outer
RF inner/outer

thats a lot of steps...

 

everything went well.

here's my setup. Griot's brake fluid extractor + mityvac bottle.
Griot's includes a replenishing bottle (left one) but it's almost
just a squirt bottle. and the nozzle is too long and will
just hit the filter/spring for lid inside the reservoire if you are
planning to just place it on top. with the mityvac bottle you can
adjust the nozzle length. no issues with leaks/overflow. was
consistently at the 'max' line throughout.



was planning to do a DIY, but my camera ran out of battery...
so just went ahead without. mine are the brembo brakes, so
needed to bleed 8x like gilley stated above.

 

btw, my car had about 23k miles, 4.5yrs old brake fluid.

the old fluid was kinda cloudy and slighly colored but wasn't
as bad as i expected.

i used Valvoline Synth Dot3/4, 32oz(almost 1L) with a tad to spare.
going to do the next bleed in 2yrs.

 

Has anybody gravity bled a cars brakes before? As I remember, if you have the time you can simply open each nipple and uncork the master cylinder and just let gravity do the work. You'd have to make sure the master cylinder didn't run dry but seems pretty easy to me.

 

Never done a gravity bleed but doubt it will work on a modern car. I think you have to have some external pressure to push or pull the fluid through the system. If it did work you would be waiting a long time for anything to happen and air would probably get in without fluid under pressure coming out of the bleeder screw valve. At the least buy a one way bleeder valve hose at an auto parts store. These go on the bleeder valve and have a check valve to let fluid out but keep air from going back into the brake system.

I prefer the Griot's vacuum machine shown above, over the Motive pressure machne, which usually leaked all over the place because it could not get a good seal on the master cylinder.

 

Agreed. Not worth the time to sit there and let it gravity bleed itself even if it were possible. Plus bleeding tools in any variety are cheap enough.