Help! Camber experts advice needed!
#1
Help! Camber experts advice needed!
Well I went to get my 04 coupe dropped on 350z H techs aligned today and they gave me the following for my specs:
Front left: Front Right:
-1.7 Camber -1.6 Camber
8.1 Caster 8.8 Caster
.05 Toe .02 Toe
5.4 SAI 5.7 SAI
3.7 Incld Angle 4.1 Incld Angle
Rear left: Rear Right:
-2.4 Camber -2.1 Camber
.08 Toe .09 Toe
Now I didn't realize till I got home when i inspected my sheet it said for 2004 G35 Sedan?!?!? My question for the experts is: Is this still adjustable? I'm thinking of going back and have them do it over again. I'm hoping i can get back closer to spec since i'm not dropped that low and in hopes of not having to buy a camber kit
BTW - which number is the determining factor for tire wear? Camber or Toe? I think I read on here somewhere that it was Toe...
Thanks for the advice fellas!
Front left: Front Right:
-1.7 Camber -1.6 Camber
8.1 Caster 8.8 Caster
.05 Toe .02 Toe
5.4 SAI 5.7 SAI
3.7 Incld Angle 4.1 Incld Angle
Rear left: Rear Right:
-2.4 Camber -2.1 Camber
.08 Toe .09 Toe
Now I didn't realize till I got home when i inspected my sheet it said for 2004 G35 Sedan?!?!? My question for the experts is: Is this still adjustable? I'm thinking of going back and have them do it over again. I'm hoping i can get back closer to spec since i'm not dropped that low and in hopes of not having to buy a camber kit
BTW - which number is the determining factor for tire wear? Camber or Toe? I think I read on here somewhere that it was Toe...
Thanks for the advice fellas!
#4
Wow! I didn't expect to have rear camber since i didn't do the springmount mod...go fig...I guess every car is different as they say...
So i guess it didn't matter that the Firestone used the Sedan spec range for my coupe didn't matter huh?
Another question...Aside from the obvious a rear camber kit is recommended more than the fronts. Is the front camber good enough and won't mess with performance on a track? Also, are rear camber kits more involved to install? I did my own suspension so i'm figuring it should be cut and dry correct?
Thanks again guys for the advice!
So i guess it didn't matter that the Firestone used the Sedan spec range for my coupe didn't matter huh?
Another question...Aside from the obvious a rear camber kit is recommended more than the fronts. Is the front camber good enough and won't mess with performance on a track? Also, are rear camber kits more involved to install? I did my own suspension so i'm figuring it should be cut and dry correct?
Thanks again guys for the advice!
#5
if you are goin to track the car then you want more negative camber. there is nothing wrong with negative camber, your car will handle much better around turns.
if it were me i would have them even everything out. on the front there is no way to adjust teh camber or caster, but i would have them even out the toe so it is the exact same on each side. on the rear would even out the camber and toe so its the same on both sides. if you are goin to track the car then put the camber at like -2.5 in the rear.
if it were me i would have them even everything out. on the front there is no way to adjust teh camber or caster, but i would have them even out the toe so it is the exact same on each side. on the rear would even out the camber and toe so its the same on both sides. if you are goin to track the car then put the camber at like -2.5 in the rear.
#6
The purpose of a suspension besides holding the body up is to maintain the tire road camber at around -0.5 so the tire provides the best traction.
Running extra negative camber just means the suspension or tire is not compensating for body roll correctly. Suspensions have a built in camber curve which increases negative camber as the body rolls 1">2">3".
Changing body roll [reducing with stiffer springs] needs to redesign camber curves to match this reduced roll.
Running extra negative camber just means the suspension or tire is not compensating for body roll correctly. Suspensions have a built in camber curve which increases negative camber as the body rolls 1">2">3".
Changing body roll [reducing with stiffer springs] needs to redesign camber curves to match this reduced roll.
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