My car just recently passed the 95K mark and has been on the stock sport suspension since new.

What's the consensus on replacing shocks/springs at this mileage? FYI, I don't want anything stiffer than how it is now, and no need to lower as I have a hard time as it is driving over things now.

TIA

Usually Nissan oem shocks last 60k/4 years before they are half as stiff on rebound as brand new. Shows up first to typical insensitive driver as a mild rear upward undilation on smooth highway.

Most aftermarket oem replacements are valved 10-15% stiffer to compenstate for rubber bushing wear and durometer hardness changes caused by ozone/salt/heat exposure. So the numb actually feel something after a change [worth spending the money], this goes away fast usually after 4-5,000 miles to equal oem stiffness.

Springs never change much [even after 15 years] so that as new feeling can only come from new shocks and all new bushings.

Q45tech - If you had to pick which suspension parts to replace with a shock change (since you can't economically replace bushings by themselves unless you're buddies with a mechanic with a hydraulic press and lots of time), which would you pick? Lower control arms + compression rods?

That's great info QAtech, I appreciate your feedback on this.

I didn't realize other suspension components needed to be replaced after such high mileage, but any additional thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

I'm at 76000 miles and def feel the lack of rebound damping. How much is it going to cost to replace bushings in addition to shocks?

If you mean just the shock bushings, then it's not a big deal - those just go in with new shocks. But take a look at all the other suspension components in the attached, most of which have bushings - especially the rear. It's a lot of labor to burn or press out old bushings and press in new ones, not to mention it's probably difficult to get just the bushings themselves unless you change over to poly bushings, which will destroy your ride quaity. It is most likely cheaper to just replace a few choice suspension components. My guess is that the key ones are:

- upper links
- transverse and lower links
- compression and radius rods

You really cannot tell just by looking at enclosed in metal bushings. If you disassemble the suspension you can feel old movement vs brand new movement.

When the camber goes progressively more negative and cannot be adjusted to NOMINAL [exact midle of range] you KNOWN the bushings are deformed and sloppy or something is BENT beyond spec.

Why you need a brand new alignment print out to reference the aging rate.

The designed in variable toe in/out under braking and acceleration is hard to measure so concentrate on rear bushings that localize fore/aft movement/toe.

I resisted replacing rear hard components until the Q rear subframe starting leaking and need replacement but around 180k I replaced almost everything, now at 318k/18 years I'm budgeting for another round.

I've replaced shocks 5 times so far in 18 years.

Most people don't keep cars long and never get the JOY of totally rebuilding them.

So, then, which components off of the diagram would you recommend replacing?