Even when my car wasn't slammed I had to use Rhino ramps to get the car up to proper height for the jack to reach the center jack points. I always use center jack points to reduce stress on the car while lifting it so it is crucial that I use those while working on the car. Even with stock height the front bumper would rub the ramps a bit.

Now I am less than 5 inches off the ground and can forget about using those same ramps. My jack is already a low profile, but just like all low profile jacks I have researched, only the nose has 3 inch height, then about 6 inches after the jack starts getting higher and higher, all the way up to a maximum height of a bit under 8 inches. Sure, I could have used the side points and etc, but like I said: to me that seems bad, especially with such a stiff suspension and lowered height.

I measured things out and in a nut shell the ramp angle had to be reduced in half, which would result in a ramp roughly twice as long as my Rhino ramps. The angle actually turns out to be about 12 degrees with an overall ramp length of 81 inches, which includes a 16 inch wheel stop (leveled part of the ramp for the wheels to rest on, instead of stopping on a slope. These ramps end up giving me a solid 10 inches of clearance, which is enough to crawl under and work if I need to do something quick like grease up my sway bushings. My muffler tips end up being 1 inch from the ground with the tilt and when the wheels are on the wheel stops, the ramp extends about half-way down my door (I have a coupe), so they aren't as monstrous as they sound. The different lengths you see in the picture (each level isn't the same length as the next and so on) are because I precisely measured the distance from the front of the bumper to the front of the tire and how to keep the bumper from rubbing at any time during the elevation.

I could draw up some blueprints/plans for anyone that feels the need. I basically had Lowe's (hardware store) cut up a bunch of 2" x 10" x 12' fir planks at exact calculated sizes. At home I stacked them appropriately and used liquid nails and 2.5" wood screws between every plank. They are solid as hell, but a little heavy. All I need to do now is screw some rope handles to the three sides for easy moving. So far they have cost me about $50 bucks in materials. Handles will be cheap too.

I didn't work on my car for nearly 3 weeks and it was torture. Tonight, after getting my car back from the body shop, I installed my test pipes. I'm back in business now.

 

Here's the DIY for the same setup:

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/...amps/index.htm

 

That's sweet. Pretty nice write up. I would do the alternating lengths for our cars though based on 24" inches from front of the tire to the front bumper and 5" from bumper to the ground. I drew out this whole thing about how the car actually goes up a certain amount and how far back the next level has to be in order to clear.

So I ended up with the following lengths in terms of traveling length of the tire per level of planks: 9", 19", 9", 19", 9", and 16" wheel rest = 81". It really works perfect and you always have a good inch or 2 clearance for every level of planks.

 

Just bought some utility chest handles and some 3" lag screws to fit the 1/4" holes in the handles (they came with tiny screws). One handle on each side.

 

awesome, that's a good idea.