Any advice on good one-man brake bleeder kits? Motive?

Thanks

 

Thank God I'm too old to work on cars other than my own [bad back]. Tech stands for TECHNOLOGY not TECHNICAN. I'm an engineer with 2 Masters Degrees so that might be overkill for the typical vehicle problem.

All our shops use the BG Brake Flush system.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...2/ai_n18705637
http://www.bgprod.com/products/brake.html

 

It's an air tight, closed, void free system and there is never a reason to change it unless the system integrity has been compromised. How often do you change your maintenance free battery fluid? Well do this at the same interval!

 

You should look up the nature of brake fluid. It absorbs moisture by nature. If you think brake fluid never needs changing,

 

I've read up on it many times and no I'm not saying that it never needs changing. 90% of articles written about moisture being absorbed via microscopic holes in rubber brake lines or seals go on to tell you that the boiling point of of the fluid drops from 400 to 300 degrees over a three year span but after that three years that max water will never exceed 5% so it never drops below 300 degrees. Or that an NHTSA survey found that the brake fluid in 20% of 1,720 vehicles sampled contained 5% or more water which is a random sample of cars that no doubt had never had it flushed or changed. If it were an issue there would be water seperation filters built in to the system and NTSB, DOT, OSHA and their grandmothers would mandate flushing and changing it. Whats the bathtub curve for degradation of performance boiling at 400 vice 300 degrees look like? I'm sure many engineers have done the math for you.

A properly bled air tight system with no external intrusion will go 1, 2, or 300,000 miles without incident even though it has 2-5% water just like every car on the highway today(Boeing aircraft main flight control hydraulic systems have more water in them utilizing 3 micron filters, and the fuel has upwards of 8% water even though it's drained before every daily flight). Usually during routine maintenance of pad changes , rotor removal for turning or replacement will cause someone to pop a line off(I know you don't have to take it off but most certified mechanics bleed after every pad change to remove any air that entered from pushing the caliper pistons back to accomodate the new pad thickness) and require a system bleed which means topping off with more fluid(every 20 - 30K miles minimum usually). During the lifetime of any cars maintenance scedule there is no interval for changing fluid determined by manufacturer.

Several manufactiurers "recommend" change intervals but do not have it included in the maintence schedule. Volkswagen is the only one that even mentions it in their owners manuals but still not in the scheduled maintenance.

most brake lines made since 1980 have had inner linings that are not penetrable at all and GM fluid contains additives & have specially coated inner linings on hoses that are guaranteed to keep any moisture out.

Like most of you who drive on the street and want a track car(20" BBK, 9 zillion horsepower yadda yadda) in this case what you actually need(like most)is what you already have.

 

The problem is 300F rotor [and 200F brake fluid] is easy achievable in just 2 - 60 mph back to back stops in summer.

Worse the peak brake fluid temperature [on the street] occurs 5-10 minutes after a stop after the heat radiates into the fluid.

The fluid temperature increases dramatically as the pad thickness declines, since most don't replace pads when they are half worn. The only insulation between the pad and piston [brake fluid] is the pad thickness.

 

I don't doubt that at all. So what do you do about it? Change it every oil change.........no based on that data thats way too far in between changes so better do it weekly, or daily?

Did you know your powersteering fluid boils every time you drive your car and it utilizes the same rubber hose material as your brakes? Gonna change it weekly? daily?

I'm sure there is imperical data somewhere showing that steering input with boiling power steering fluid causes understeer that has taken lives in the same think tank study group that has pictures of the headstones for those with 5% water in the brake lines.

If you look at every fluid in the car, engine oil, differential, trans fluid you'll find water. It's a by product of heating up and cooling down and always will be as long as the planet turns. The rest of society deals with it by driving the car and enjoying it.

 

Let me know if you think running around with even 100,000 mile fluid is okay when: Notice the temp that Q45 mentions? See what boiling point Dot 3 is at 5%?

 

That chart shows exactly what I posted above for boiling point drops, so what's your point?

Shouldn't you be out changing your fluid and not restating whats already been said? And remeber what Q said also......a few hot stops and you'll need to change it again so you might want to get a few 55 gallon barrels.

 

Your statement makes no sense. How are other fluids adversely affected by moisture like brake fluid.

In Europe where the car's performance is more critical, they advocate changes at regular intervals. Just because it's not recommended here, doesn't mean it's not a good idea to change it at regular intervals. So I take it you don't change your oil very often either?

PS fluid boils at every use? Proof? Link?

 

I stated that ALL fluid in your car get water contamination from heating up and cooling down, you can't prevent it period. It's basic physics......Ever heard of that stuff?

1. You've posted redundant charts that back up exactly what I said above.

2. you also replicated what I said about manufacturers making coments but NOT including it in scheduled maintenance. Yes they recommend it, but don't insist on it, so what is your point? I already said that.

3. For PS boiling proof try searching............I'm a newbie here and are obviously more in tune with this site than you are. I'll just give you one though, wouldn't want to overload you anymore than you already are.

https://g35driver.com/forums/tech-07...ing-fluid.html


Lastly - You can have this thread and continue to dazzle others with your brilliance, my BS meter is pegged.

 

Lastly - You can have this thread and continue to dazzle others with your brilliance, my BS meter is pegged.

So is mine and a lot of others on your statements.

 

Dude, I'm sitting here reading your posts and just salivating at the information. Then you get an attitude.

This is an internet forum. Google the definition of forum. Here's the result: http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS282&=&q=define%3Aforum&btnG=Google+Search
The first match states: "a public facility to meet for open discussion ". And that's exactly what this place is - a public meeting place for open discussion.

You're obviously a smart guy - I look forward to reading your posts in the future. However, if your fuse is as short as it appears to be, you won't be here long, which would be a loss for us all.

 

1) You also stated that it should never have to be changed. Which is what? Wrong.
2) Then you imply it's not a problem. Which is what? Wrong.
3) Then you mention PS fluid being boiled AND relating that to causing a problem. Which you never clarified.
4) Then you related changing brake fluid w/ changing various other fluids. Nissan/Infiniti also don't have a change interval on their auto tranny fluid. Ask anyone here if it's good idea to to 200,000 w/o changing it.
so please save your newbie BS for someone that MIGHT care. As I don't think anyone believes 1/10th of what you think you know.

 

Really? How long to batteries typically last? 4-6 years? As misinformed as most Americans are about changing their brake fluid, I'd actually take that interval. It's better than what's typical aka never. Nothing like having dark moisture ridden brake fluid making your boat towing truck/suv's brake pedal hit the floor when trying to get down the other side of the mountain pass.