What can I do to stop my brakes from squeaking?
#16
That would be extremely dishonest, fraudulent, break consumer laws and risk heavy fines, as well as exceedingly bad word-of-mouth advertising.
#17
i have the same problem with squeaky brakes...took it to the shop today and they said front pads need to be replaced....i see that you said hawk racing pads up top...one of the sites i looked at online wants 153 for the hawk ble racing pads and 212 for the dct-70 or would i be fine just going with hawk ceramics for a little less??how much of a difference is there with the brembos using these pads??thanks
The original equipment brake pads have served you well. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you're not going racing only, then don't use racing brake pads, pure and simple. This also will help when it comes to the warranty on the brakes, as using aftermarket brake pads will have the warranty come through the aftermarket brake pad company. Conversely, if you use the original equipment brake pads, the warranty is done right through the dealership. Raps things up nice, neat and easy for you.
Last edited by HiTechOilCo; 12-29-2008 at 01:11 PM.
#18
I recently purchased a 2003 Coupe with Brembos and had very loud and annoying brake noise. We took the brakes apart and found the front pads were basically new with plenty of meat on them so we replaced them with some similar pads for noise reduction. We took it for a test drive and the noise came again. We jacked up the car again and took apart the rear brakes and rubbed the pads on the concrete to create a little friction, the noise went away....for now.
Is the final answer to eliminate the brake noise new rotors (possibly slotted) and brake pads? I've searched plenty and haven't found a definitive answer.
Is the final answer to eliminate the brake noise new rotors (possibly slotted) and brake pads? I've searched plenty and haven't found a definitive answer.
#19
We always measure pads [digital tool] and supply customer with WRITTEN results, unfortunately customers are not engineers and don't understand a half worn pad [9mm>4.5mm] is significantly worse even though it is above legal limit [~2mm].
We try to estimate from customer history how many 90 day oil changes remain before pads are near limit.
By the way pads wear faster as they get thinner due to extra heat buildup. So if 70% wear occured in 20K, then the final 20% may occur in 4-5k before the customer is back for an oil change.
The pad compound depth is the only insulator between hot rotor and caliper piston/brake fluid.............as the compound wears the radiatant heat gets closer and closer to caliper.
Most don't realize fluid boiling occurs 3-8 minutes after a stop.
Somewhat off topic but a good read on thermals improvement in pads:
http://www.fourproducts.com/Images/D...f_the_FSBC.pdf
Each model is different so don't be fooled by measuring the outside pad, as most Nissan wear inside pad faster especially on rear. The pad may have tapered wear that can only be guesssed at without total disassembly!
We try to estimate from customer history how many 90 day oil changes remain before pads are near limit.
By the way pads wear faster as they get thinner due to extra heat buildup. So if 70% wear occured in 20K, then the final 20% may occur in 4-5k before the customer is back for an oil change.
The pad compound depth is the only insulator between hot rotor and caliper piston/brake fluid.............as the compound wears the radiatant heat gets closer and closer to caliper.
Most don't realize fluid boiling occurs 3-8 minutes after a stop.
Somewhat off topic but a good read on thermals improvement in pads:
http://www.fourproducts.com/Images/D...f_the_FSBC.pdf
Each model is different so don't be fooled by measuring the outside pad, as most Nissan wear inside pad faster especially on rear. The pad may have tapered wear that can only be guesssed at without total disassembly!
#20
Could be the brake squealers, they are small metal pieces on the pads specifically designed to tell you it's time to replace them. If you're pads aren't ready for replacement, then anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads (between the pads and calipers) could help, and cleaning off any brake dust with a can of brake cleaner could also help.
Just to make sure no newbies aren't suckered in, don't ever go near any brake rotor or pad with any kind of lubricant ever.
Along the same lines, racing track pads will squeal like stuck pigs at normal temps and will eat rotors like pez candy. Don't ever try them unless you are doing high-speed track driving.
--Bryce
Just to make sure no newbies aren't suckered in, don't ever go near any brake rotor or pad with any kind of lubricant ever.
Along the same lines, racing track pads will squeal like stuck pigs at normal temps and will eat rotors like pez candy. Don't ever try them unless you are doing high-speed track driving.
--Bryce
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