Brake question...

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 01:22 AM
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Brake question...

So the wifes 06 G sedan will need brakes soon, and rotors as well. I am looking to get something a little better than stock to avoid the rotors warping so fast.

What should I get?

She has a 2006 G sedan RWD sports
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:40 AM
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I dont like the stock rotors. I have warped 2 sets. Then I swapped to x drilled & slotted. Haven't warped them yet.

Also, get better pads. Hawk HPS are nice. There are several good brands. I'm sure others will show up and give their advice.


It really depends on how much you want/are willing to spend.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:43 AM
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Your wife was able to warp the rotors? Haha... i'm at 60k on my original rotors from when i bought the car brand new... machined them at around 30k. They're now finally showing heat spots from aggressive driving, but i'll be replacing them with oem rotors again.
-GP-
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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I was thinking the x-drilled/slotted is probably the way to go. How are the Hawks when it comes to noise?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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My advice is to just get some decent slotted rotors. Most of the cross drilled rotors have very small cracks around the holes that can cause larger issues down the road. Just my .02 cents
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bimmerman
I was thinking the x-drilled/slotted is probably the way to go. How are the Hawks when it comes to noise?
I've run em before and got a few chirps here and there. I didn't like the dusting however.


As for rotors, i prefer blank rotors. They take the heat better than x-drilled or slotted rotors due to having more mass and therefore will be less prone to warpage. The X-drilled stuff *in most applications* is basically for show.

BTW, "warped" rotors is a myth. Most commonly it's caused by pad friction material being deposited unevenly on the rotors surface giving you the brake pulsations. It's usually caused by heat. Pad selection is just as important in avoiding this in the future. The best rotors in terms of dispersing heat are in fact, solid stock plain rotors. I prefer Brembo plain rotors and have autoXed with them with great results with my other vehicles, but unsure if they make them for the g35
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
I've run em before and got a few chirps here and there. I didn't like the dusting however.


As for rotors, i prefer blank rotors. They take the heat better than x-drilled or slotted rotors due to having more mass and therefore will be less prone to warpage. The X-drilled stuff *in most applications* is basically for show.

BTW, "warped" rotors is a myth. Most commonly it's caused by pad friction material being deposited unevenly on the rotors surface giving you the brake pulsations. It's usually caused by heat. Pad selection is just as important in avoiding this in the future. The best rotors in terms of dispersing heat are in fact, solid stock plain rotors. I prefer Brembo plain rotors and have autoXed with them with great results with my other vehicles, but unsure if they make them for the g35
Friction material deposits? Have you ever machined a rotor?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BRY82BRY
Friction material deposits? Have you ever machined a rotor?

If you are going to disagree with me, offer up another explanation.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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So other than a $$$ brake system upgrade there is nothing better than the stock rotor? What pads should I run then?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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How many miles do you have on the car. I ran my stock pads 25K and there was hardly any wear at all. However, most of my driving is highway where you don't use the brakes as much. My pads didn't dust at all and I never had a problem with warping.

As for the "friction Material" transfer, it's not a myth. Go to www.StopTech.com and read the White Paper on rotor warping.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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The car has 27K on it right now.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Can't recommend Hawk HPS, at least in colder climates, as the initial cold brake bite is very weak. They resist fade well, but they take longer to grab on initial pedal application, at least on the first stop.

Take a look at Centric premium rotor blanks. Lots of places carry them, and use OEM pads if you want to retain the stock cold brake bite.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:16 PM
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I am in a similar situation. After trying OE a few times I just put on the Project Mu - B-force pads and new slotted rotors. So far so good but less than a thousand miles.

I believe that pad deposits may be the root of the problem, but I didn't want to give up cold braking. Hopefully the B-force will offer a little higher heat range and not deposit on the rotors. So far cold braking is great - but cold here is 60 degrees. Hot braking is much better than stock, but I don't know what the longevity will be yet.
 
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