Brake bleeding procedure.?
What's up guys, I have 03 coupe with the brembo brakes....I'm doing a stage 2 upgrade on the car, adding stoptech rotors, project mu pads, stoptech lines, and new brake fluid. I'm going to be bleeding the brakes after finished and was curious what's the proper order procedure to bleed the brakes? Do you start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and make your way up ex: (Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front, Driver Front) or do you do the criss cross technique? Also the calipers have two bleeder valves, correct? Do you do inside first or outside bleeders first?
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i've NEVER EVER heard of anyone suggesting to bleed brakes like that... you ALWAYS start at the furthest corner from the master, which would be RR... LR... RF... LF.
Just make sure the master never goes dry.
-GP-
Just make sure the master never goes dry.
-GP-
You may be ok doing the above, but it is NOT what Nissan recommends.
The recommendation to start farthest away from the MC is based on older systems without ABS. The presence of an ABS module changes the picture somewhat.
Last edited by G35fromPA; Dec 28, 2008 at 10:15 PM.
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Sounds good to me, thanks man....I'm putting new brake fluid in my car this weekend so i'm gonna be using the brake bleeder for my car. When doing this procedure do you just keep pumping the new fluid into the resevoir/master cyliner and keep pumping it through the lines until the "new fluid" comes out the caliper that you are bleeding in order to flush all the old fluid out?
I assume so, but I am not familiar with the particular brake bleeder you are using, and have never used a pressure bleeder myself. What do the instructions that come with it say to do?
As long as you don't get any air in the system, you are ok bleeding any which way you like - I prefer the RR, LR, FR, FF method. However, if you are trying to bleed air out, you must follow the procedure from the FSM.
I just used a cool gizmo to bleed my brakes. I got it at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
Consists of a reserve bottle that keeps the master cylinder full at all times, comes with a bottle, SS valve, and adapters for the openings of any MC.
The main unit is a trigger control gizmo that uses 60-120 psi of shop air (I ran it off a very tiny compressor) connected to a clear hose and an rubber piece that slips over the bleeder valve on the caliper.
It's really slick, I had the fluid changed and the system bleed in about 15 minutes.
The only trick that thy didn't put in the directions is to wrap the threads on the bleeder screws with Teflon tape. That stops air from coming in to the tubing and you get a real idea of how much air you are removing from the system.
Only cost $20 on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
Consists of a reserve bottle that keeps the master cylinder full at all times, comes with a bottle, SS valve, and adapters for the openings of any MC.
The main unit is a trigger control gizmo that uses 60-120 psi of shop air (I ran it off a very tiny compressor) connected to a clear hose and an rubber piece that slips over the bleeder valve on the caliper.
It's really slick, I had the fluid changed and the system bleed in about 15 minutes.
The only trick that thy didn't put in the directions is to wrap the threads on the bleeder screws with Teflon tape. That stops air from coming in to the tubing and you get a real idea of how much air you are removing from the system.
Only cost $20 on sale.
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