How are my alignment specs?
How are my alignment specs?
i got my car aligned yesterday and here is the spec sheet its dropped with G35 S-Techs and has a kinetix camber kit front and rear and has a toe adjustment bar on the rear and he said he wanted to get my rear camber higher but if he fixed the camber the toe was off and vice versa so he said this was the best he could do what do you think?
Edited: I missed the before and after part... boo.
I don't know why you're going with that high rear camber or why your mechanic wants higher rear camber. At least he corrected the toe issue. Normally I'd go with a front to rear camber split of .5' at most. a little toe out front and a little toe in in the rear.
I don't know why you're going with that high rear camber or why your mechanic wants higher rear camber. At least he corrected the toe issue. Normally I'd go with a front to rear camber split of .5' at most. a little toe out front and a little toe in in the rear.
Last edited by Buzz Killington; Jan 3, 2009 at 08:54 PM.
he wanted to get it high and in specs because i am buying new rear tires and my last bfgs only lasted like 15k and look newon the outside and are slick from the middle to the inside and at $800 for 2 i dont want to replace tires every 6months
get some spc toe bolts and get rid of those "toe" arms. They are a very poor way to adjust "toe" because they change 2 planes of suspension geometry at the same time. your camber in the rear is still pretty negative for having a mild drop and camber kits
I'd want more toe in on the front driver side than the passenger side, and more camber in the front than the rear for daily driving... and I'd get a better rear camber and toe adjustment kit...
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that's not too bad. at least the thrust angle is zero.
the car's characteristic requires some negative camber on the rear for
it to corner properly minimizing step-outs during mid corner acceleration.
some folks dial that out thinking it's necessary to achieve max tire wear,
but if you get the right tires such as RE050 PP's which are asymetric and
designed to run on cars running neg camber you will wear the tires pretty
flat....while maintaining the camber the car 'needs.'
i would give your car more front neg camber, actually and keep the
difference within 0.2 degrees left/right.
the car's characteristic requires some negative camber on the rear for
it to corner properly minimizing step-outs during mid corner acceleration.
some folks dial that out thinking it's necessary to achieve max tire wear,
but if you get the right tires such as RE050 PP's which are asymetric and
designed to run on cars running neg camber you will wear the tires pretty
flat....while maintaining the camber the car 'needs.'
i would give your car more front neg camber, actually and keep the
difference within 0.2 degrees left/right.
Should toe the front in slightly, and get some more positive camber out of the rear, that'll still eat up the inside edge... as well as wasting about 25% of your actual tire from being used for traction on the rear.
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