OEM or Hawk pads

Old Apr 13, 2009 | 01:17 AM
  #16  
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yeah my 06 has very little dust

......take that, BMW drivers!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:23 AM
  #17  
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I have an 06 as well

Non-Brembo though. Maybe that is why...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 11:55 AM
  #18  
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Look at the Project Mu NS pads like others have mentioned. I got tired of the excessive brake dust of the OEM pads and put on Hawk pads. They NEVER had the bite of OEM pads, and almost got me into trouble a couple times. I switched to Project Mu and got the best of both worlds - much reduced brake dust and much improved braking.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 12:01 PM
  #19  
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When Infiniti went to the bigger caliper/rotor in 05 (o6x), they went back to a less agressive pad. No need for it as clamping power was increased in other ways.

That's why if you have the upgraded sets, no need to go aftermarket. Less dust, cheap and still retains the world class 60-0 times.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by slizzap
Look at the Project Mu NS pads like others have mentioned. I got tired of the excessive brake dust of the OEM pads and put on Hawk pads. They NEVER had the bite of OEM pads, and almost got me into trouble a couple times. I switched to Project Mu and got the best of both worlds - much reduced brake dust and much improved braking.
I'm waiting on new brakes... Project Mu are my next set of pads... I like the way you described the three pads (Hawk, OEM and Project Mu) - the OEM & Hawk is exactly how I feel... I hope to feel the same way you do when I try Project Mu.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:11 AM
  #21  
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pretty sure my fronts are ceramic and cant remember what my rear pads are, but it was something other than ceramic
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 12:33 PM
  #22  
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I found the OEM pads to bite a lot more agressively that my Hawk HPS replacements. Once the Hawks have a few hard brakings, they seem to do fine, but until then they seem to not work as well as OEM.

Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.

Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 12:42 PM
  #23  
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no need to turn rotors if they arent warped imo
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Mike, if you feel the vibration from them when you hit the brake pedal, would you recommend you turn them or pull and swap them all together?

I have a track day coming up and I'd like to swap out for some new pads. Just trying to decide if I should pull and swap out the rotors as well
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #25  
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Hawk HPS or Project Mu NS - both are better than OEM stopping-wise, both dust a lot less, both are for the street (not track). I have Project Mu NS and am very happy with the choice - and you can see the blue pads sticking out of the calipers.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by codeflux
Hawk HPS or Project Mu NS - both are better than OEM stopping-wise, both dust a lot less, both are for the street (not track). I have Project Mu NS and am very happy with the choice - and you can see the blue pads sticking out of the calipers.
Is there data to support this?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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^^^ +1... I dont know about the Project Mu - but the Hawk HPS definitely do not have better stopping power on my car... if it werent for the crazy dust, I'd put the OEM back on.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tiguy99
Mike, if you feel the vibration from them when you hit the brake pedal, would you recommend you turn them or pull and swap them all together?

I have a track day coming up and I'd like to swap out for some new pads. Just trying to decide if I should pull and swap out the rotors as well
if you are talking to me, i would turn them. where do you feel the vibration, steering wheel or brake pedal or both? brake pedal would be the rears and the steering wheel would be the fronts. the machinist may tell you that you cant turn them cause it will put them out of spec. in that case, you need new ones. otherwise, in my opinion, if you can turn them and they will still be in spec, thats the route to take cause if i remember correctly, they arent cheap rotors, unless you find some slotted aftermarket ones on sale. that being said, everytime you turn them, thats less rotor mass to disipate heat, so if you are really, really serious about the tracking stuff, you might want to just get new ones. if you get aftermarket rotors, i would suggest slotted over drilled.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 01:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SLVR JDM
I found the OEM pads to bite a lot more agressively that my Hawk HPS replacements. Once the Hawks have a few hard brakings, they seem to do fine, but until then they seem to not work as well as OEM.

Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.

Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.

HPS is a higher temp pad than OEM, and thus requires more heat to work effectively. Cold stops are not the HPS' forte - something that Hawk doesn't tell you when you buy them. Only way to get back to OEM "bite" is to get rid of the Hawks. It's not your rotors or anything else - it's the pads!

Pads are an inherent compromise: If you want great cold stopping power, you're going to have to live with dust and high wear, and some fade. If you want high fade resistance with a bit less dust, you have to give up cold stopping power. There really isn't much of an in-between.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #30  
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Or upgrade to the 06 setup like I did.
 
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