neg camber
#16
#20
#21
negative camber is better than positive for handling but not too much. Incorrect toe adjustments will eat tires quicker than camber. Im maxxed out at -1.3 in the front with Z springs and havent noticed any abnormal wear in the past 2K miles. I will be rotating every oil change just to be safe though.
#22
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those are negative. Positive camber will look weird. If your looking from behind the car positive will look like this \ /. Negative looks like this / \.
I have uneven tire wear from the inside because mine is way out of spec. But like everyone mentioned already, out of spec toe is the most notorious on tire wear.
I had to set mine like that because of my drop height and wheel offsets... or else it will rub like hell. LOL
Here's my rear
I have uneven tire wear from the inside because mine is way out of spec. But like everyone mentioned already, out of spec toe is the most notorious on tire wear.
I had to set mine like that because of my drop height and wheel offsets... or else it will rub like hell. LOL
Here's my rear
#26
#29
Important to understand that oem spec are the amount of misalignment [sitting still] FOUND NECESSARY [by engineers during rolling testing at 55 mph] to correct to achieve best MPG.
Unfortubately very difficult for owners modifiers to secure rolling alignment data recorders to RECALCULATE the best STATIC ALIGNMENT NUMBERS.
Just because something is at the ragged edge of inspec doesn't mean it is correct the NOMINAL [midpoint] is the CORRECT NUMBER!
(-1.9 to -0.9) nominal [ideal] is - 1.4 rear +- 0.1 degrees.
The oem numbers assume BRAND NEW BUSHING with a specific amount of preprogrammed flex and compression [not cracked worn aged bushings].
Unfortubately very difficult for owners modifiers to secure rolling alignment data recorders to RECALCULATE the best STATIC ALIGNMENT NUMBERS.
Just because something is at the ragged edge of inspec doesn't mean it is correct the NOMINAL [midpoint] is the CORRECT NUMBER!
(-1.9 to -0.9) nominal [ideal] is - 1.4 rear +- 0.1 degrees.
The oem numbers assume BRAND NEW BUSHING with a specific amount of preprogrammed flex and compression [not cracked worn aged bushings].
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i put new wheels and tires on my car with 275 tires in the rear. does that have any effect on tire wear and camber? im still trying to solve the tire wear problem. i had to replace my rear tires once already, got about 9,000 miles out of em. that is unacceptable. and no i wasnt driving like an a$$hole. when i had the new tires put on i had them chack the allignment and camber and they said they were within spcs. should i increase the camber from neg 1.4 or whatever to like 0? or like -.4?