Camber/ Dealership Help
As best I can read the sheet you posted, you are little more negative camber than spec on all four corners:
LF 1.14 degree excess negative
RF 0.60 degree excess negative
LR 0.67 degree excess negative
RR 0.61 degree excess negative
If you drive aggressively and corner hard, just run it that way. You are going to wear out the outside edges of your tires first anyway, this way it won't be as bad.
If you drive conservatively you will see a little more tire wear but probably not enough to justify the cost of a camber kit plus installation (and another alignment!).
Look at the camber on the front of this thing -- and it has a lot stiffer chassis than yours! And yes, they are VERY concerned about tire wear<G>.
LF 1.14 degree excess negative
RF 0.60 degree excess negative
LR 0.67 degree excess negative
RR 0.61 degree excess negative
If you drive aggressively and corner hard, just run it that way. You are going to wear out the outside edges of your tires first anyway, this way it won't be as bad.
If you drive conservatively you will see a little more tire wear but probably not enough to justify the cost of a camber kit plus installation (and another alignment!).
Look at the camber on the front of this thing -- and it has a lot stiffer chassis than yours! And yes, they are VERY concerned about tire wear<G>.
As best I can read the sheet you posted, you are little more negative camber than spec on all four corners:
LF 1.14 degree excess negative
RF 0.60 degree excess negative
LR 0.67 degree excess negative
RR 0.61 degree excess negative
If you drive aggressively and corner hard, just run it that way. You are going to wear out the outside edges of your tires first anyway, this way it won't be as bad.
If you drive conservatively you will see a little more tire wear but probably not enough to justify the cost of a camber kit plus installation (and another alignment!).
Look at the camber on the front of this thing -- and it has a lot stiffer chassis than yours! And yes, they are VERY concerned about tire wear<G>.
LF 1.14 degree excess negative
RF 0.60 degree excess negative
LR 0.67 degree excess negative
RR 0.61 degree excess negative
If you drive aggressively and corner hard, just run it that way. You are going to wear out the outside edges of your tires first anyway, this way it won't be as bad.
If you drive conservatively you will see a little more tire wear but probably not enough to justify the cost of a camber kit plus installation (and another alignment!).
Look at the camber on the front of this thing -- and it has a lot stiffer chassis than yours! And yes, they are VERY concerned about tire wear<G>.
Since the tech who was doing my alignment couldn't get the camber to within spec, he told me that he recommends at least making it so that each side has the same negative camber. Is this important? Or is it more important to go as low as possible on each side? He actually made my camber more negative on one side to match it up with the other, and told me I needed a camber and toe kit.
Both of you need camber and toe kits for the front and rear. The recommended specifications are listed on both of your posted pictures, so I don't know why this is even an issue...
obviously its an issue I keep getting mixed reviews! so yes its an issue. I dont know if its worth to get a camber kit or not. Some people say im fine others say I need it.
for reference: G35x on Eibach pro springs with SPC front and rear camber kits: drives like a dream (and I am really picky about my alignment, if bumps make the car uneasy or veer.. or the car doesnt track straight.. it bugs the hell out of me)
If you want it to be correct and drive correctly, you need it. End of story.
I guess the question to ask yourself is how long do you plan on keeping your car? and how many miles do you drive a year?
I drive a bunch (about 25k miles per year), so I wanted my tires to last me and I plan on keeping my car for a long time...so I invested in a front camber kit (yeah, they're not cheap), but felt it was a wise move. BTW - I'm on Z springs in the front/coupe springs in the rear.
I drive a bunch (about 25k miles per year), so I wanted my tires to last me and I plan on keeping my car for a long time...so I invested in a front camber kit (yeah, they're not cheap), but felt it was a wise move. BTW - I'm on Z springs in the front/coupe springs in the rear.
the tech did what they could to bring it back to spec, other then that they matched it side to side.
its the best they can do, adjustments are little on stock. get the kit and go back.
the CEL can be cleared for free TRUE but that doesn't mean problem is solved. $50 is rather cheap for diag and repair.
its the best they can do, adjustments are little on stock. get the kit and go back.
the CEL can be cleared for free TRUE but that doesn't mean problem is solved. $50 is rather cheap for diag and repair.




