So my new wheels arrived last week and Im in the process of ordering everything else to put them on. I'm waiting on new valve stems, my custom center caps and tires. Here is what I plan on doing for alignment, I would like some additional comments if you think I need to make some different adjustments:

Front Toe: -.03 to -.05
Front Camber: hopefully below -2 degrees (not sure what stock arms will allow yet).

Rear toe: 0
Rear camber: -1.3 to -1.8 degrees with Eibach/SPC rear camber/toe kit

Caster within stock specs.

I'm lowered on Cobb Z-springs with Z-spec Tokico DS. Which comes out to about 1.25 front and 1.43 rear (which surprisingly still has a small forward leaning rake to it). The ride heights I'm getting from the math of the Z-G suspension changes of .5" more drop with the springs on top of their suggested lowering height (Cobb springs lower a Z .75 front and .9 rear). FYI I'm going for a combo of tire clearance and tire life. I'm not racing the car so I'm not looking for the end all setups to maximize turn in and corner exit.

 

you shouldn't get any additional drop from the struts. They are 1/2" shorter than stock, but that doesn't matter in terms of ride height

 

I dont get it, if they're short overall than the G35 struts, how do they not shorten the over height? Does the strut shaft have enough travel to make up for the shortened length or is it soley restricted by the lowering capalities of the spring?

 

A strut's(low pressure) function is to dampen the spring's oscillation. When installed at ride height, the strut's shaft is somewhere between the ends of its travel. The only way it could control ride height is if the shock was so short that it was physically elongated to its full length and was still shorter than the distance between the mounts, and then the suspension was compressed to mount the shock. THen the suspension would be physically limited by the stock body. This system would likely fail almost immediately due to the forces applied to the shock body. Potentially, a high pressure shock could cause an increase in ride height due to internal pressures that want to equalize the shock at its unloaded resting position.

 

so yeah, the height of the strut is irrelevant in this case and its strictly limited by the actual spring height allotment...thats good to know, thanks...any comments about my proposed suspension alignment

 

It looks like a pretty good setup, I would have some rear toe in though, somewhere around 0.02-0.04 depending on how many miles are on your car since bushings will flex somewhat as the car is moving. A bit of toe in will compensate for the suspension changes at speed.

 

interesting, i guess a zero rear toe might only truely be utilized on a hard race bushing setup...Well thanks, I'll pass this info to my alignment guy and let him make the tweaks he wants.