I recently purchased the Akebono BBK w/o the stainless steel lines. For the install, can I simply unplug the brake lines, take off the stock calipers, slap on the Akebonos then plug the brake lines back in? Or will brake fluid leak all over when I unplug the line?

Second question, if I do have to completely bleed the system, will the Motul 600 "racing" brake fluid at $15 per bottle benefit the G as a daily driver? Or can I simply pick up a few quarts of the Castrol or Prestone at $5 per bottle?

Thanks for the feedback!

 

I can only answer the brake fluid leak part of the question.

Yes, the brake fluid will slowly leak out/drip out when you take off the brake line from the old caliper. Eventually the dripping stops, but only after a long time (10 min, maybe 30, maybe more). Have something to catch the fluid, otherwise you will have a big stain on the driveway.

I was working on just one caliper and unplugged the line; the fluid in the reservoir went almost to the bottom before it stopped coming out from the line.

Basically, there is no issue with the fluid leaking, eventually it will stop, just top up the reservoir so it doesn't go to the bottom. Disconnect one brake line from one caliper at a time and once reconnected, bleed the fluid from that caliper and then move on to the next one. As long as the fluid doesn't go to the bottom in the reservoir, you don't need to bleed the whole system.

Also, I don’t know how you plan to bleed the system. I did it using the brake pedal method and wouldn’t bother with the vacuum pumps.

 

Do them one at a time, let the old calipers hang untill you get the new ones installed. I put new stainless brake lines on mine and didn't spill much. Don't take the cap off and you won't leak as much.

Do NOT use DOT 5 fluid! Use only DOT 3/4 compatable fluid. DOT 5 is not hydroscopic and will not absorb water so it just sits in pool in your brake system causing rust. You should change your fluid at least once a year anyway. That removes the contaminated fluid and returns good pedal feel. You will need to bleed them anyway when you do the change, it's a good time to flush the system.

 

Great thread!

On similar notes, is there a preferred torque rating for tightening things back down?

I'm guessing "no", seeing as they're mostly for secure attachment, so reasonable hand tightening will work. Right? (i.e. For the lines/bleeder screw)

money042 i use off the shelf Valvoline fluid. They're affordable and work great. I use them for daily driving and the occasional road course.

 

Right, as DOT 5 is silicone based. But you can use DOT 5.1 fluid, which is also Glycol Ether / Borate Ester based, like DOT3 or DOT 4 fluid. Still, you need to change it more often than DOT 3.

 

There are torque specs in the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2003/br.pdf) page 24 for the front, #1 and #5 on the diagram.

They are both easy to over tighten, so yes, I wouldn't apply too much force. I didn't use a torque wrench on mine.

 

How could i forget that? Sorry, too early in the a.m.

 

That's a good point. But does it need to be changed that often? I'm doing about 10k miles a year. My previous cars have gone 40k-50k and I never changed the brake fluid. But then again, the fluid will gradually degrade and I probably never noticed it.

Follow up question, if I do flush the entire system, do I drain out the fluids completely, change the calipers, then refill the system? However, I saw a video in the DIY section where the guy used a bleeder pump and drained each corner one at a time, while putting in new fluid thru the engine bay as he drained out the old fluid from the calipers. If that's the case, should I change the calipers with the old fluid in the system, then flush it with the new calipers installed?

Sorry for all the newb questions, my first attempt at brake work and I want to get it right, while understanding what I'm doing so I can help other people later on.

Thanks for all the great feedback, keep it coming!

 

This is what I would do one caliper at a time:

1. Prepare the old caliper for removal by loosening all the bolts. Loosen the bleeder valve and the bolt holding the line to the old caliper.
2. Remove the old caliper but don't disconnect the line yet.
3. Install the new caliper.
4. Disconnect the line from the old caliper and attach it right away to the new caliper. You will loose as little fluid as possible if you reconnect it immediately to the new caliper.
5. Put everything back, fully install the new caliper.
6. Bleed the fluid from the caliper you had just worked on.
7. Repeat the same on the next caliper.

You will be bleeding the fluid from the new calipers. You don't need to or want to have the system dry before you install the new calipers. If for some reason you have the line disconnected for a long period, just top up the reservoir with brake fluid so it doesn't go to the bottom; the pressure/vacuum will cause the fluid to run from the disconnected line for awhile, and while it's doing this, the fluid from the reservoir is getting sucked in, so that's why you don't want it to get to the bottom and have air enter the system from the reservoir.

I hope that helps. Once you do it, you will realize how easy it is. Probably your biggest hurdle will be removing the rear calipers because the access to one of the bolts isn't easy.

I know the video you are talking about where a bleeder pump is used. I didn’t use one as it’s not necessary. I think the advantage of it might be that one person can do the work as opposed to needing 2 if your bleeding the system according to the FSM.

 

One other thing.....
Be sure to clean all the brake fluid off of the new Akebono. (brake cleaner)
If you don't it will eat through the paint!

 

Esp since I had them powdercoated! Thanks for the heads up

 

Great feedback! Also had a chance to look at the FSM from a link up above. Then found the FSM for the 07 coupe. I'm feeling pretty confident about this DIY. Now I need a dry day that corresponds with my day off to give this a try. Thanks, again, all!

I'm still hoping someone can comment about the second half of my OP. What's so special about the Motul 600 "racing" brake fluid? The Akebono kits for sale I've seen online all included or can be bundled with this stuff.

 

So, i take it that if you do bleed each corner one at a time, there's no need to re-bleed after all four corners are done? That is, air won't get sucked back on preceding corners as you work on the next?

Once those 2-pc rotors come in, i will be tackling the project. If any, my biggest fear is being unable to remove the rotors. Based on experience from previous rotor/pad changes on various Nissan's, were it not for the screw hole on the rotors, they're nearly next to impossible to remove.

They basically just have higher wet boiling points than your average fluid. This is good for high heat applications (such as on a road course), but won't do much for a daily driver. There is also a disadvantage to this or any other high wet boiling point fluid... they're more hygroscopic and will have to be replaced more often.

 

That is correct. Just don't let air enter through the reservoir; if you do, then you have to do all 4 corners.

 

That's great. thanks! I take it we should still follow the order of which corner goes first, right? I like this method... something about having the entire car on just jack stands makes me uncomfortable. Being able to do it one corner at a time is a great idea.