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HOW TO: Replace Brake Pads?

     
  #16  
Old 01-10-2010, 08:01 PM
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If you don't push the pistons back into the calipers, you can't get the new pad in.
 
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2010, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
If you don't push the pistons back into the calipers, you can't get the new pad in.
okay i get it i watched the video one last question do i really need a torque wrench to tighten the nuts and bolts or can i just make them tight enough
 
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2010, 08:36 PM
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It's nice, but I have never used one yet and I have done many brake jobs.
 
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
It's nice, but I have never used one yet and I have done many brake jobs.
okay do you think i need one cuz i wont be working on other cars just mine can i get away with a regular ratchet and screwgun with the adapter
 
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2010, 09:47 PM
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You can get one cheap at places like Harbor Freight. You can get one for less than $20 everyday. They are plenty accurate for what we do. If I was rebuilding motors, I would invest in a good Proto or Snap On.
 
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:19 AM
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Old 04-15-2016, 09:54 AM
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Not to necro-bump, but do you guys suggest bleeding the lines as well? I just got a new-to-me G and the rears are gone. Was going to replace this weekend. Might as well bleed, but wanted to get your take. Thanks.
 
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2016, 10:04 AM
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I mean do you want to stop? If so, bleed the brakes every time you change pads at a minimum. If the fluids never been done do that also (full flush).
 
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  #24  
Old 04-15-2016, 11:09 AM
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You should CHANGE/FLUSH brake fluid AT LEAST ever two years and preferably every year.
 
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