HOW TO: Replace Brake Pads?

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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #16  
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If you don't push the pistons back into the calipers, you can't get the new pad in.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
If you don't push the pistons back into the calipers, you can't get the new pad in.
okay i get it i watched the video one last question do i really need a torque wrench to tighten the nuts and bolts or can i just make them tight enough
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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It's nice, but I have never used one yet and I have done many brake jobs.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
It's nice, but I have never used one yet and I have done many brake jobs.
okay do you think i need one cuz i wont be working on other cars just mine can i get away with a regular ratchet and screwgun with the adapter
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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You can get one cheap at places like Harbor Freight. You can get one for less than $20 everyday. They are plenty accurate for what we do. If I was rebuilding motors, I would invest in a good Proto or Snap On.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 10:19 AM
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 09:54 AM
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Not to necro-bump, but do you guys suggest bleeding the lines as well? I just got a new-to-me G and the rears are gone. Was going to replace this weekend. Might as well bleed, but wanted to get your take. Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 10:04 AM
  #23  
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I mean do you want to stop? If so, bleed the brakes every time you change pads at a minimum. If the fluids never been done do that also (full flush).
 
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 11:09 AM
  #24  
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You should CHANGE/FLUSH brake fluid AT LEAST ever two years and preferably every year.
 
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