Time to buy front camber arms
#16
01-18-2010, 02:39 PM
Reason why Cusco, SPC, and 350EVo arms are more expensive is because of their quality. They also allow you to have more adjustment. Cusco has negative A arms, so if you want negative camber, you can do so. You'll get about -4 degrees of camber, depending on your drop, but I modified mine to get -4.7. I can probably squeeze it out to -5 if I wanted....or even more if I wanna spend some coin.
#17
01-19-2010, 01:09 AM
#19
01-19-2010, 12:30 PM
No, you don't need to use them. However, with just the arms, you will only get around 1 degree of positive camber adjustment. The spacers add another 2 degrees.
#22
01-19-2010, 03:47 PM
^Either that or jack the car up and the suspension will hang. If you aren't to dumped, you could reach your hand under there with a wrench.
It will give you a static +2 degrees. You won't be able to adjust it since the stock arms have no adjustment for camber. I don't think you could buy just the spacers new either. You'd have to find someone that didn't have them installed.
Fk...I'm all over this thread like flies on ****
Fk...I'm all over this thread like flies on ****
#23
01-19-2010, 04:26 PM
#24
01-19-2010, 04:50 PM
No, you have to take it to a shop and get the alignment done. The SPC arms also have caster adjustment but you can set that to zero. Either way, you should get an alignment done to see where you are at.
There is a 27mm bolt on the top front of the arm. Loosen that bolt and that is where camber is adjusted on the SPC arms.
I don't know if this is an issue or not.
My quote from another thread
There is a 27mm bolt on the top front of the arm. Loosen that bolt and that is where camber is adjusted on the SPC arms.
I don't know if this is an issue or not.
My quote from another thread
The rear SPC camber and toe bolts are a good choice.
If you plan on going with an aggressive drop.....more than 2" I would not recommend the SPC front camber kit. I had both the unrevised and revised version of that kit and rode on it for over 1.5 years and I was plaqued with a knocking over medium and large bumps/dips the whole time, with both kits (a little better with the revised). It was annoying and always bothered me. I was told by a forum vendor that I was dropped below the working conditions of the kit....??? I recently installed a set of 350Evo camber arms and couldnt be happier. The knock is completely gone and the quality of the ride is noticeably improved. I still have to get an alignment but so far my experience is night and day between the two kits.
I was going to go SPL but found a good deal on a set of used 350Evo arms. There are a few others that also have aggressive drops and are having or had the same issue. I've done my research on the boards with these members and other posted threads. Just a heads up on what I've experienced, for what it's worth.
Good luck
If you plan on going with an aggressive drop.....more than 2" I would not recommend the SPC front camber kit. I had both the unrevised and revised version of that kit and rode on it for over 1.5 years and I was plaqued with a knocking over medium and large bumps/dips the whole time, with both kits (a little better with the revised). It was annoying and always bothered me. I was told by a forum vendor that I was dropped below the working conditions of the kit....??? I recently installed a set of 350Evo camber arms and couldnt be happier. The knock is completely gone and the quality of the ride is noticeably improved. I still have to get an alignment but so far my experience is night and day between the two kits.
I was going to go SPL but found a good deal on a set of used 350Evo arms. There are a few others that also have aggressive drops and are having or had the same issue. I've done my research on the boards with these members and other posted threads. Just a heads up on what I've experienced, for what it's worth.
Good luck
#25
01-19-2010, 04:57 PM
#26
01-19-2010, 05:09 PM
One of the welds/knuckles on the control arm was hitting the fender well. I could see the markings on both the arm and fender well.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "when" you would adjust camber. You typically adjust camber after you lower a car if you want to get back into OEM spec. Those who track like to dial in some negative camber to get better traction around turns.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "when" you would adjust camber. You typically adjust camber after you lower a car if you want to get back into OEM spec. Those who track like to dial in some negative camber to get better traction around turns.
#27
01-19-2010, 05:13 PM
#29
01-19-2010, 07:26 PM
there is no way you can align that properly by raising and lowering the car.
You have to raise the car and loosen the bolts
Then you have to lower the car and adjust the camber.
Now you have to raise the car to tighten the bolts and all your camber is screwed up now when you were raising the car.
Too complicated IMO.
You have to raise the car and loosen the bolts
Then you have to lower the car and adjust the camber.
Now you have to raise the car to tighten the bolts and all your camber is screwed up now when you were raising the car.
Too complicated IMO.
#30
01-19-2010, 07:39 PM