You pretty much NEVER want negative toe.

And whoisthis, your 3 year alignment warranty isn't worth anything if they can't get the car properly aligned in the first place. Bring the specs from the manual with you next time, and if they tell you something is OK when the manual says differently, then ask for your money back.

 

thanks man just got it realign to total toe +0.18...in the front

 

My front toes are 1.5 which is off the factory spec, ithink. the nominal for the factory spec is .4, right?
I told this guy to at least go .8 but he said that the COMPUTER will show up as RED if i go below 1. Should i tell him to shut up and set it up to .4 for front and rear?

 

That's too much. Per the FSM, total toe-in for the front should be AT MOST +.08.

Then he needs a new computer. I strongly recommend you find another place to get an alignment. Like I said, your warranty is useless if they can't get it aligned correctly to begin with.

 

The first thing you need to do is find an alignment shop that will set it way you want it.
Next you need to decide on your own specs based on how you are going to drive the car and it's the same no matter want the wheel diameter is.
In my opinion (everybody has one) I would have your toe set at zero for street driving, I run a sixteenth out but I auto-x my car and what the better turn in response.
In the rear I have the toe set a little in, even if you set the toe at zero the stock bushing on our cars are soft enough that under hard acceleration out of a corner they will flex enough to cause a little toe out.
As far as camber, you will not get bad tire wear if your less than -1. I run -1.5 in the front and the wear is not that bad and a -2 in the rear. It does show a little more wear in the rear but I can live with it because I track the car.
Caster on our cars is not adjustable, the only way you can affect caster is by raising or lowering the rear more or less than the front. I would not worry about it.
Below is a link to an article from Grassroots Motorsports magazine that I think explains things well. The main thing is decide your own specs and find someone that will do it for you. Find someone in your area that works on racecars and they can help you better than the everyday shop.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

 

Good info Platinum. I'd suggest though that people be careful in deciding their own specs. You've got a pretty specific goal in mind with your alignment, and obviously know the benefits of the tweaks you're making. But John Q. Public should be sticking to factory specs whenever possible.

 

whenever they fix the alignment on my car, i stay right next to him and watch. He doesn't mind. I guess no matter what the comp. says, i'll tell him to just stick with MY spec.
I'm kinda mad right now cause yesterday i installed SPC front camber kit, and checked the alignment. Guess what? -3.3 camber with as much as high it can get. So i installed the hub shims. But still, front wheels look more than -1 camber right now. If the camber is more than -1.1 with the SPC installed then this is a crap item. Before i installed this, my camber was -1.1.
Oh one more thing, the christmas tree lights are on on my dashboard. ABS, VDC off, and SLIP are on, just like other guys have. I'll reaally want my money back if, tomorrow, i go check the alignment and it's no where around -.4 camber. And if SPC guys don't tell me how to get rid of the christmas tree.

 

i went to check the alignment and i got -.3 and -.4 camber for the front with the maxed out positive camber. I still have ABS, VDC off, and SLIP on
ALso, i sometimes hear light clunk sound... will the SPC guys refund this product??

 

Your dash lights aren't on because of the SPC kit. Correlation does not equal causation. Something else was screwed up during the install, because there's nothing electrical that gets disconnected when installing a camber kit. It's all mechanical. Go to an Autozone or somewhere else that will read your ECU code. Those lights are on for a reason, so find out what's causing it.

 

To install the shims, you gotta relocate the ABS sensor bracket. This caused the lights to go on

 

is an alignment a must when u upgrade to 20's?

 

i don't think so. For some reason my car was out of alignment even though the car wasn't lowered.