When a G35 is lowered, which alignment parameters (i.e. Camber, Toe-in, etc.) usually need adjustment?

And if they go out of spec, which way do they go out, and on which end of the car? An example of the type of info I'm seeking is:
"Negative camber is usually created in the rear wheels"
or
"Toe-out is usually created in the front wheels"


After smashing my rear wheel into a curb, several suspension components needed replacing. I told the alignment shop not to "max out" any adjustments to get the car to align. Sure as you-know-what, the idiots maxed out adjustments on at least one of the parameters. This is what they told the general repair shop, who in turn told me.

So tomorrow when I go in to confront them, and find out which adjustments they maxed out, I need to know if that adjustment will be amplified or reduced by lowering my car. For instance, if the adjustment that reduces toe-in is maxed out, and lowering the car creates more toe-in.

Thanks for any help.

Usually when you lower I think you camber in and toe out. Realistically though, camber toe and caster are affected when you lower car, but camber and toe are the big two.

yep,...camber, toe, caster, pretty much all of it.

If i'm not mistaken, back in the days when lowering my civic, I can easily adjust the ride height without affecting my toe specs as long as I did not adjust the camber kit and accepted whatever camber it came out to be. It's not the case with the G35, everything and including the toe gets all out of wack after any ride height adjustment. It's the way the suspension pivots, i guess.

If you need factory specs, i pulled this from a thread I found...

Thank you for the responses. They are a great start, especially the factory specs thread. I still need to know exactly which wheels go out of spec and in which direction. Because the shop maxed-out adjustment on one or more parameters, I need to know specifically whether lowering will make that/those parameters worse or better. So what would be most helpful is something like this:

I'm just making up things here, but this is the format that would be the best
Front Wheels
Caster: Usually becomes a higher degree (i.e. 7 to 7.5)
Camber: Usually becomes more negative
Kingpin: Usually becomes a higher degree
Toe In Distance: Usually more inward (i.e. from 0mm toe in to 3mm toe in)
Toe In Angle: Usually becomes greater


Rear Wheels
Camber: Usually becomes more negative
Toe-In: Usually more outward

This way, if the shop says the rear wheel toe in adjustment is as far as it can go inward (in order to get the car to factory spec), and lowering the car will create more toe out, then I know I will have a major problem...and I can get them to replace the parts that need replacement.
THANKS

its all different for all g35s, so there is no definite answer

just get toe to 0 and camber to whatever you need to clear the fenders or if not for look then as close to spec as possible

it doesnt really matter which side does what, they can all be adjusted to 0 toe and the same camber within like very small increments of a difference

another thing you should keep in mind is that if you're trying to dial in little to zero camber, you'll max out "toe" adjustment(in the rear, not sure about the front), even with the rear toe bolt kit, the closer you are to zero camber, the less adjustment you have for toe. This is something I've noticed when playing around with my alignment, that camber and toe adjustments go hand to hand and does not really work independently....to a certain extent.

As many have mentioned before, the G requires some negative camber anyways and it seems like there's no other choice in order to get the toe to specs. The best thing to do is to get that camber to factory spec, or close to it...and then finalize the toe. If you run out of adjustment for toe, add more negative camber, whatever it may be. Toe is the worst cause for tire wear out of the three parameters and should be place on top priority among the other two parameters. Good luck

Thanks a ton.


I talked with the alignment shop today and they said the camber had been set as far "positive" as possible. He said that the way the suspension is set up, lowering the car will make the camber more negative. So in terms of lowering, I should be okay with the camber settings maxed out. However, I am going to bring the car to another shop to have the subframe replaced. It is bent and that is why the settings had to be maxed-out. The alignment shop told me that the let the general repair facility know this, but that shop neglected to tell me.

I also come from a Honda/Acura background. On those cars, changing camber causes the toe to be changed. Toe is a function of camber. I am not surprised to see it is the same on these cars.

Ooh that explains it, that's going to be a pita