OEM 05 Sedan Brakes/Rotors
OEM 05 Sedan Brakes/Rotors
When I picked up my car from the dealer, they did a "brake service" Not sure if it included rotors, but at least pads.
I can easily get them to warp if I have to hard stop, not even fully stop just have to give a little braking, I try not to hold on the brake so that the pads can cool, but when you are in traffic you cant really do that, it does it so easily its a joke...
I can get rid of the warping by doing a few 40-0 stops or so. And its gone.
Are OEM's really this bad? Every single time I take a hard, semi hard stop I get pissed at the warpage.
I can easily get them to warp if I have to hard stop, not even fully stop just have to give a little braking, I try not to hold on the brake so that the pads can cool, but when you are in traffic you cant really do that, it does it so easily its a joke...
I can get rid of the warping by doing a few 40-0 stops or so. And its gone.
Are OEM's really this bad? Every single time I take a hard, semi hard stop I get pissed at the warpage.
When I picked up my car from the dealer, they did a "brake service" Not sure if it included rotors, but at least pads.
I can easily get them to warp if I have to hard stop, not even fully stop just have to give a little braking, I try not to hold on the brake so that the pads can cool, but when you are in traffic you cant really do that, it does it so easily its a joke...
I can get rid of the warping by doing a few 40-0 stops or so. And its gone.
Are OEM's really this bad? Every single time I take a hard, semi hard stop I get pissed at the warpage.
I can easily get them to warp if I have to hard stop, not even fully stop just have to give a little braking, I try not to hold on the brake so that the pads can cool, but when you are in traffic you cant really do that, it does it so easily its a joke...
I can get rid of the warping by doing a few 40-0 stops or so. And its gone.
Are OEM's really this bad? Every single time I take a hard, semi hard stop I get pissed at the warpage.

As for rotors, NO, that is not normal. Chances are your rotors are warped. Perhaps you didnt have the rotors "cut" and/or they were not replaced.
5am typing ftw. Lol
When picked up my car this was in may of 09. Its was fine untill a few months ago I took off one of my wheels few days agi and I got about 3mm before the wear indicators. As it wears it gets worse. I hear the oem pads are bad but Damn. I need to do a couple of quick. Stops. Before I pick up people..
I fear of allignment and suspension damage now after looking into if it can damage.
It would seem the oem pads transfer material. Way too easy.
When picked up my car this was in may of 09. Its was fine untill a few months ago I took off one of my wheels few days agi and I got about 3mm before the wear indicators. As it wears it gets worse. I hear the oem pads are bad but Damn. I need to do a couple of quick. Stops. Before I pick up people..
I fear of allignment and suspension damage now after looking into if it can damage.
It would seem the oem pads transfer material. Way too easy.
Glazed =
http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#brake_pad_glazing
how to tell your rotor is glazed = look how "reflective" your rotor is. The more reflection the higher chance of glazing. When your rotor looks rough it's in better shape (rough as in metalic view, if it looks like a mirror your rotors are glazed.
Hmm interesting ill take more pics. But that also explains the juddering. But I find it very odd that I would of overheated them. The worst I have done on the brakes was a slowdown from 100 to like 30 from dragging at the track. Then let them cool for 10min before I went again. I mostly do highway driving so this is bothering me how they overheated lol.
So I need to machine them to fix em?
So I need to machine them to fix em?
Last edited by thescreensavers; Oct 14, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
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Doesn't always work...
I had a run where I shut down from 130 to 20 and the rotors were gone to ****
I turned them and still nothing, problem is when you overheat the rotors you change the properties of the metal. By doing so the friction surface is not as "rough" as it needs to be.
Think of it as forging, you heat a metal then bang the crap out of it to gain strength. By doing so you are compressing all the molecules closer together and creating a better metal (for strength). But by compressing the molecules you are removing that pourous material therefore limiting the friction surface.
Would the rotors be stronger, yes. Provide more braking, No.
Truly depends if the metals took that much damage, the cheapest thing to do screensavers is to try and turn the rotors, if that does not work, it's time for new ones.
I had a run where I shut down from 130 to 20 and the rotors were gone to ****
I turned them and still nothing, problem is when you overheat the rotors you change the properties of the metal. By doing so the friction surface is not as "rough" as it needs to be.
Think of it as forging, you heat a metal then bang the crap out of it to gain strength. By doing so you are compressing all the molecules closer together and creating a better metal (for strength). But by compressing the molecules you are removing that pourous material therefore limiting the friction surface.
Would the rotors be stronger, yes. Provide more braking, No.
Truly depends if the metals took that much damage, the cheapest thing to do screensavers is to try and turn the rotors, if that does not work, it's time for new ones.
Turning rotors are like what 25-30 bucks each? I dont have the tools for brakes though bleh.
I feel the OEM rotors should be ok with a 100-30 with proper cooling in between runs..ect weird, How the fuu do people on here Auto X on them lol.
Prob going to look into some Slotted Good brand Rotors if/when I do switch. Damn glazing there not donuts!
Thanks for the help Eric!
I feel the OEM rotors should be ok with a 100-30 with proper cooling in between runs..ect weird, How the fuu do people on here Auto X on them lol.
Prob going to look into some Slotted Good brand Rotors if/when I do switch. Damn glazing there not donuts!
Thanks for the help Eric!
Last edited by thescreensavers; Oct 15, 2010 at 02:07 AM.
Turning rotors are like what 25-30 bucks each? I dont have the tools for brakes though bleh.
I feel the OEM rotors should be ok with a 100-30 with proper cooling in between runs..ect weird, How the fuu do people on here Auto X on them lol.
Prob going to look into some Slotted Good brand Rotors if/when I do switch. Damn glazing there not donuts!
Thanks for the help Eric!
I feel the OEM rotors should be ok with a 100-30 with proper cooling in between runs..ect weird, How the fuu do people on here Auto X on them lol.
Prob going to look into some Slotted Good brand Rotors if/when I do switch. Damn glazing there not donuts!
Thanks for the help Eric!
Last edited by Eric@TCGMiami; Oct 15, 2010 at 02:32 AM.
A Big Thanks to Eric@TCGMiami! He is a very nice and cool dude!
He helped me out tremendously.
We got my Front Rotors resurfaced and sanded the pads a little bit. Now when I brake its as smooth as butter.
yay for macro mode
He helped me out tremendously.
We got my Front Rotors resurfaced and sanded the pads a little bit. Now when I brake its as smooth as butter.
yay for macro mode
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