Front end clunking noise low speeds
#32
Here was my solution to eliminating front end clunking etc.
1. Identify worn bushings and torn ball joint boots
2. Search forums for related issues
3. Compare pricing on OEM replacement vs. 1AAauto parts w 1 year warranty....
4. Roll dice.. purchase 1AAauto kit for front lower control arms and compression rods
5. Make sure I have all of the tools I need to get the job done
6. Jack that **** up and start turning wrenches
7. Make sure to follow torque specs and place suspension under load while tightening to torque specs.
8. Go get an alignment
9. Take her for a test drive and celebrate saving over 1k in repair costs
Parts: about tree fiddy $350.00 after shipping and tax.
Labor: Free
Time: 4 hrs + 3hrs shop time labor to press lower ball joints (Dealer will try and sell you entire knuckle > find a good shop!)
1. Identify worn bushings and torn ball joint boots
2. Search forums for related issues
3. Compare pricing on OEM replacement vs. 1AAauto parts w 1 year warranty....
4. Roll dice.. purchase 1AAauto kit for front lower control arms and compression rods
5. Make sure I have all of the tools I need to get the job done
6. Jack that **** up and start turning wrenches
7. Make sure to follow torque specs and place suspension under load while tightening to torque specs.
8. Go get an alignment
9. Take her for a test drive and celebrate saving over 1k in repair costs
Parts: about tree fiddy $350.00 after shipping and tax.
Labor: Free
Time: 4 hrs + 3hrs shop time labor to press lower ball joints (Dealer will try and sell you entire knuckle > find a good shop!)
#33
yea. end links will make clicking noises over bumps... id do a wheel bearing check... jack the front drivers side up and grab the wheel and see if there is play when yanking the top wheel spoke out then the bottom spoke out... keep yanking on opposite ends like you are trying to pull the wheel off.... if it moves away from the car more than a few mm then you need new bearings... they will make a clunking noise... might also make your car slow down faster than it should when letting off the gas... also, after parking the car, put your hand on the center cap and see if it is hotter than the rest of the wheel. thats a telltale sign
#34
my car has the same problem
any new updates?
my clunking is there.. i'm planning on replacing the compression rod bushings and end links with SPL.
also is anyone's car feel loose around 60mph +?
i had an alignment done and it feels like the toe is off, but the print out states it's within spec.. anyone know what i can do to fix that?
i've had my lower control arm bushing replaced with whiteline already.
my clunking is there.. i'm planning on replacing the compression rod bushings and end links with SPL.
also is anyone's car feel loose around 60mph +?
i had an alignment done and it feels like the toe is off, but the print out states it's within spec.. anyone know what i can do to fix that?
i've had my lower control arm bushing replaced with whiteline already.
thanks
#35
same issue with my car
Hey I know it's from long time ago but my car has the same issue as yours...do you remember if replacing compression rods fixed this issue or if the clunking noise came back...I got mine replaced but clunking is still there.....
#36
Here was my solution to eliminating front end clunking etc.
1. Identify worn bushings and torn ball joint boots
2. Search forums for related issues
3. Compare pricing on OEM replacement vs. 1AAauto parts w 1 year warranty....
4. Roll dice.. purchase 1AAauto kit for front lower control arms and compression rods
5. Make sure I have all of the tools I need to get the job done
6. Jack that **** up and start turning wrenches
7. Make sure to follow torque specs and place suspension under load while tightening to torque specs.
8. Go get an alignment
9. Take her for a test drive and celebrate saving over 1k in repair costs
Parts: about tree fiddy $350.00 after shipping and tax.
Labor: Free
Time: 4 hrs + 3hrs shop time labor to press lower ball joints (Dealer will try and sell you entire knuckle > find a good shop!)
1. Identify worn bushings and torn ball joint boots
2. Search forums for related issues
3. Compare pricing on OEM replacement vs. 1AAauto parts w 1 year warranty....
4. Roll dice.. purchase 1AAauto kit for front lower control arms and compression rods
5. Make sure I have all of the tools I need to get the job done
6. Jack that **** up and start turning wrenches
7. Make sure to follow torque specs and place suspension under load while tightening to torque specs.
8. Go get an alignment
9. Take her for a test drive and celebrate saving over 1k in repair costs
Parts: about tree fiddy $350.00 after shipping and tax.
Labor: Free
Time: 4 hrs + 3hrs shop time labor to press lower ball joints (Dealer will try and sell you entire knuckle > find a good shop!)
#37
All oem design will fail... you do not need to replace the arms, just the bushings. The exception to this rule is for the compression rods IF and ONLY IF your ball joints are going bad
Recommend the Whiteline bushings -
Most common are the lower control arm inners ( will clunk and throw off alignment)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w52991
Second most common is the compression rod bushings (they start to squeak like an old spring bed)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w83389
If you plan to replace all the fronts its good to go with the full kit as purchasing as the same time will save considerable money
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ing-kit-wek003
The rear diff bushing is also a very common failure
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ial-kit-kdt911
however - that is included in the ESSENTIALS kit above
Recommend the Whiteline bushings -
Most common are the lower control arm inners ( will clunk and throw off alignment)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w52991
Second most common is the compression rod bushings (they start to squeak like an old spring bed)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w83389
If you plan to replace all the fronts its good to go with the full kit as purchasing as the same time will save considerable money
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ing-kit-wek003
The rear diff bushing is also a very common failure
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ial-kit-kdt911
however - that is included in the ESSENTIALS kit above
#38
All oem design will fail... you do not need to replace the arms, just the bushings. The exception to this rule is for the compression rods IF and ONLY IF your ball joints are going bad
Recommend the Whiteline bushings -
Most common are the lower control arm inners ( will clunk and throw off alignment)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w52991
Second most common is the compression rod bushings (they start to squeak like an old spring bed)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w83389
If you plan to replace all the fronts its good to go with the full kit as purchasing as the same time will save considerable money
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ing-kit-wek003
The rear diff bushing is also a very common failure
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ial-kit-kdt911
however - that is included in the ESSENTIALS kit above
Recommend the Whiteline bushings -
Most common are the lower control arm inners ( will clunk and throw off alignment)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w52991
Second most common is the compression rod bushings (they start to squeak like an old spring bed)
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w83389
If you plan to replace all the fronts its good to go with the full kit as purchasing as the same time will save considerable money
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ing-kit-wek003
The rear diff bushing is also a very common failure
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ial-kit-kdt911
however - that is included in the ESSENTIALS kit above
The install guide says not for AWD models...
#39
#40
Back from the dead. I'm ready to eat a GD bullet chasing this F'n noise down.
03 G35 Sedan 161, xxx. Well maintained.
I have replaced:
Both Radius arms (compression Rods)
Both BALL JOINTS
Both Lower Control Arms
Both Endlinks
4Wheel alignment done.
This GD clunk/Thunk at low speeds over uneven roads or washboard on a gravel road is still there. Upper A-Arm bushings and ball joints seem tight, wheel bearings are good.
Any other ideas? I have searched and searched here and other chat boards and everyone points to the same things (what I mentioned above)
03 G35 Sedan 161, xxx. Well maintained.
I have replaced:
Both Radius arms (compression Rods)
Both BALL JOINTS
Both Lower Control Arms
Both Endlinks
4Wheel alignment done.
This GD clunk/Thunk at low speeds over uneven roads or washboard on a gravel road is still there. Upper A-Arm bushings and ball joints seem tight, wheel bearings are good.
Any other ideas? I have searched and searched here and other chat boards and everyone points to the same things (what I mentioned above)
#41
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#42
Maybe I'll yank the strut assemblies this weekend and give them a look.
Have you had personal issues with these on your G?
#43
I drove ttrank's car solo
iTrader: (50)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: By the sea, Tx
Posts: 18,301
Received 1,486 Likes
on
1,221 Posts
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#44
Is it possible that a worn motor mount is causing the noise? I only bring this up as I replaced front suspension on my old I35 and the noise was still there. I then discovered a loose motor mount; replaced it and the noise disappeared. I realize it's not apples to apples as the I is FWD, but thought I'd throw it out there.
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Blue Dream (12-19-2016)
#45
i have the same damn thing...did you ever figure it out? at low speeds, with any slight imperfection in the road there is a hard fast clunking, almost seems by the firewall... like a quick tap of a hammer on frame and you can almost feel it in the steering... i replaced the end links that did nothing as i suspected but they are cheap and easy....
usually i do all my own wrenching but i have an awesome mechanic for back-up that fixes my failures. We put the car on the lift and were underneath it for over and hour and half trying to identify anything broken, prying with breaker bar, test driving the car...nothing...
its driving me nuts, the car is tight, tracks lazer straight and handles great... it is bone stock btw
usually i do all my own wrenching but i have an awesome mechanic for back-up that fixes my failures. We put the car on the lift and were underneath it for over and hour and half trying to identify anything broken, prying with breaker bar, test driving the car...nothing...
its driving me nuts, the car is tight, tracks lazer straight and handles great... it is bone stock btw