Front end clunking noise low speeds
2005 g35 sedan, rear wheel drive automatic same noise
My car makes the same noise. I want to input as I’m currently in college to become an automotive technician.
I swapped out the lower control arm which had horrible bushings at the frame. I swapped out the upper control arm since the ball joint had a bit of play. I did the lower ball joints as well.
now the ball joints I got don’t fit quite right so gonna change those out again.
I will also be getting new tie rod ends and the wheel bearing as well as sway bar end links. This is all on the front end where I hear the clicking popping bumping sound from the front right wheel.
Gonna change all the rest of the parts and see how it sounds. I would like to fix it all myself so I know what the issue is.
Won’t let me add a video I’d like to add. Perfect for the sound.
I swapped out the lower control arm which had horrible bushings at the frame. I swapped out the upper control arm since the ball joint had a bit of play. I did the lower ball joints as well.
now the ball joints I got don’t fit quite right so gonna change those out again.
I will also be getting new tie rod ends and the wheel bearing as well as sway bar end links. This is all on the front end where I hear the clicking popping bumping sound from the front right wheel.
Gonna change all the rest of the parts and see how it sounds. I would like to fix it all myself so I know what the issue is.
Won’t let me add a video I’d like to add. Perfect for the sound.
Last edited by Coletrain; Oct 1, 2019 at 06:48 PM. Reason: I want a video which it won’t let me put on.
Upload the video to youtube and post the link here, it will automatically embed the video.
Get the vehicle supported on a lift or jackstands, grab the top of the wheel and aggressively pull it back and forth to see if there's any play or clicking. I usually use this method to check wheel bearings.
Have someone hold the steering wheel steady and do the exact same thing from the side of the wheel, listen for clicking/popping or movement from the tie rod ends (particular the inner tie rod ends). If you don't have someone to help you can wrap a ratcheting tie down strap around the steering wheel and brake pedal and snug it up, not too tight, but enough to keep the wheel from turning.
Get the vehicle supported on a lift or jackstands, grab the top of the wheel and aggressively pull it back and forth to see if there's any play or clicking. I usually use this method to check wheel bearings.
Have someone hold the steering wheel steady and do the exact same thing from the side of the wheel, listen for clicking/popping or movement from the tie rod ends (particular the inner tie rod ends). If you don't have someone to help you can wrap a ratcheting tie down strap around the steering wheel and brake pedal and snug it up, not too tight, but enough to keep the wheel from turning.
SOLVED Mystery front end noise
SOLUTION AT THE BOTTOM
I had a suspension noise coming front the front end at low speeds and also noticed it more when brakes were NOT engaged. I mostly heard it in bumpy roads and I could hear it disappear if I applied the brakes. I began to replace suspension parts one at a time. 1st because they were getting old and worn. 2nd because I wanted to get rid of the annoying noise in bumpy roads. I replaced lower ball joints, control arms, end links, sway bushings, compression rods, tie rods inner and outer, and upper control arm. Noise was still there.
I ended up re-doing my brake pads too because I thought maybe the brake pads were bouncing around and they stopped bouncing when the brakes were applied.
Well turns out to be something brake related. The brake calipers have a little play in them and they bounce up and down. Not the in-and-out play they’re designed to have but like a wiggle. There should be zero wiggle. They wiggle over bumps because the brackets where the slider pins go are worn and have play in them which cause the whole caliper to move.
SOLUTION is to get new caliper brackets where the pins fit snug or get some shims inside the pin holes to keep the pins from having too much play. What I did was cut a piece of an aluminum soda can and shimmer it inside the pin hole. It takes the right size shim to work because it can also be too tight that the pin doesn’t slide anymore and brake pads are stuck against the disk which cause noise, heat and faster ware.
I’ll post a link to a cheap video where I learned this.
I had a suspension noise coming front the front end at low speeds and also noticed it more when brakes were NOT engaged. I mostly heard it in bumpy roads and I could hear it disappear if I applied the brakes. I began to replace suspension parts one at a time. 1st because they were getting old and worn. 2nd because I wanted to get rid of the annoying noise in bumpy roads. I replaced lower ball joints, control arms, end links, sway bushings, compression rods, tie rods inner and outer, and upper control arm. Noise was still there.
I ended up re-doing my brake pads too because I thought maybe the brake pads were bouncing around and they stopped bouncing when the brakes were applied.
Well turns out to be something brake related. The brake calipers have a little play in them and they bounce up and down. Not the in-and-out play they’re designed to have but like a wiggle. There should be zero wiggle. They wiggle over bumps because the brackets where the slider pins go are worn and have play in them which cause the whole caliper to move.
SOLUTION is to get new caliper brackets where the pins fit snug or get some shims inside the pin holes to keep the pins from having too much play. What I did was cut a piece of an aluminum soda can and shimmer it inside the pin hole. It takes the right size shim to work because it can also be too tight that the pin doesn’t slide anymore and brake pads are stuck against the disk which cause noise, heat and faster ware.
I’ll post a link to a cheap video where I learned this.
You probably just needed new slide pin bolts, if people aren't properly cleaning out the slide pin holes, slide pins, and using the proper lubricant as part of a COMPLETE brake job then you end up with excessive wear on components like the slide pins. There's a lot more to a brake job than just pads and resurfacing rotors.
It's also possible it's a remanufactured set of calipers and they were damaged when the company cleaned out the slide pin holes in the caliper. They might have used some kind of metal brush on a drill that actually removed the plating material from the caliper. Hard to say exactly what happened, some manufacturers use a replaceable dowel that presses into the caliper but these cars don't have that.
Over the past week my car has developed a metal on metal type clunk noise that seems to be coming from the front drivers side. It almost sounds like a broken strut or worn balljoint. I have about 71K miles and lowered on 350Z springs up front with sport struts and Stillen sway bars.
The noise only occurs at low speeds on rough roads/bumps. Anything over 25MPH there is no noise at all. I thought my sway bar was loose, so I got under the car yesterday and checked all bolts and the notorious endlinks. Everything was tight and all bushings appeared to be okay too. Anything else I should look at/for?
The noise only occurs at low speeds on rough roads/bumps. Anything over 25MPH there is no noise at all. I thought my sway bar was loose, so I got under the car yesterday and checked all bolts and the notorious endlinks. Everything was tight and all bushings appeared to be okay too. Anything else I should look at/for?
Over the past week my car has developed a metal on metal type clunk noise that seems to be coming from the front drivers side. It almost sounds like a broken strut or worn balljoint. I have about 71K miles and lowered on 350Z springs up front with sport struts and Stillen sway bars.
The noise only occurs at low speeds on rough roads/bumps. Anything over 25MPH there is no noise at all. I thought my sway bar was loose, so I got under the car yesterday and checked all bolts and the notorious endlinks. Everything was tight and all bushings appeared to be okay too. Anything else I should look at/for?
The noise only occurs at low speeds on rough roads/bumps. Anything over 25MPH there is no noise at all. I thought my sway bar was loose, so I got under the car yesterday and checked all bolts and the notorious endlinks. Everything was tight and all bushings appeared to be okay too. Anything else I should look at/for?
Be careful when replacing compression rod and control bars. The studs are welded to the frame and if broken can be a disaster.
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Tylko Kazik
G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
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