So after searching for a noise for months (including replacing LCA inner bushings, wasn't the noise but they needed it), I've determined that it's coming from my Z1 Street FUCA chassis mounts (while bouncing the car in the front, I heard two distinct *scrrrrnch* of what sounded like rubber/plastic against metal from each side of the car, high up in the suspension, next to the shock (Tein Street Basis Z). The noise occurs whenever the front changes elevation at anything more than half a mile an hour (I am very confident it is NOT my sway bar endlinks, due to the noise being up high and two sources from each side (I've heard the noise while jacking suspension up to re-bolt it after the LCA bushings, and it definitely was near the top), as well as happening even approaching a bump head-on).

That being said, I didn't fully grease the chassis mounts of the arms due to a misunderstanding for 1250 miles or so, although they only started making noise about 1500 after install (they were fully greased ASAP upon hearing the noise). Can this sort of rubber on metal noise on rough roads/bumps occur from the bushings only, or the mount of the bushing shell to the chassis? I didn't grease that contact point as I thought that only the inner bushing was supposed to move, but I'm thinking it's possible the bolt loosened and it's now able to move a small bit ( no noticeable noise about 25mph), or maybe some debris got in (not likely, as both sides started making the noise at about the same time).

Bottom line, is it possible that the lack of grease at install is causing the sound, or is it possible that a loose mount bolt would allow some play between the chassis and bushing shell, causing this *screech* noise on bumps? I'm 99% certain it's the two mount points, I've had the Tein coilovers on for almost a year and never had problems before (the suspension never came off in the months previous to the noise starting), and it's definitely up top in the suspension.

In addition, I swear I've noticed my steering becoming more vague recently, leading me to believe it is the mounting bolts loosening. The only non new suspension bits down there are the compression rod bushings, sway bar end links/bushings, and the ball joint, none of which are making the noise as far as I can tell.

 

I have the Z1 FUCA and I've had them off twice, including driving out the bolt sleeve and completely separating the bushings because they need to be THOROUGHLY greased. Like literally every square millimeter needs to be THOROUGHLY greased and pack that cavity full by hand when you're done.

It'll last about a year even with re-greasing every 5k miles as recommended. The grease serts are pretty much useless.

 

Fortunately they're really easy to remove and you can drive out the bolt sleeve with a light tap from a hammer. The two halves of the urethane bushing are easily pulled out by hand after the bolt sleeve is out.

 

Grease the area between the bolt sleeve and rubber bushing only, or grease the inner area where the bolt goes as well? Seems obvious to do both, but I just want to make sure. If I have to pull out those bushings every 5k miles, I think I may be swapping to another brand when possible, that's a lot of hassle for someone without a whole lot of tools currently.

Should I grease between the bushing and the chassis as well?

 

I think the noise and slippage is from the OUTER part of the urethane bushing slipping on the inner race of the control arm. I grease mine every 5k but I only pull them off when they squeak which seems to be maybe twice a year? We'll see how it goes next year.

 

So, between the bushing and the metal sleeve where the bolt goes? I recall my LCA bushings specifically calling to grease that location, so I guess that applies here as well. Found out Z1 uses Energy Suspension bushings for their FUCA, wish it was whiteline instead.

EDIT: Misread that, I see now you meant between the bushing and the FUCA itself.

 

No, but I did grease that part too so it's hard to say, I think the ENTIRE urethane bushing is rotating within the race. Those OEM rubber "washers" or whatever TF they are are probably providing a lot of friction once you clamp that bolt down to the 40lbs torque or whatever it was and causing the entire bushing to rotate. That's what I assume is happening anyways, I plan on looking into it a bit more when I have to grease them next.

 

No, he's saying between the bushing and the inner part of the control arm where the bushing fits. Or I think he is.....

 

That's exactly what I'm saying. Or I think I am.....

 

Well, regardless of what IS being said, I found for sure it's the source of my noise. Strangely, the bushing on the rear side (only got to passenger side FUCA, so the bushing closer to the rear on that one) makes a tiny bit of noise but the bushing moves within the outer part (look at the Z1 FUCA and you'll see what I mean), while the forward bushing only slides one outer side; it moves the other WITH the bushing, hence the loud squeaking (I'm not even sure if it's the only one making the noise, as it's so damn loud I can't pinpoint if the other is as well).

THAT being said, that's as far as I got, as my extreme lack of tools and encroaching darkness meant I had to get the shock back on the LCA, a task that took the better part of an hour (I legitimately did it with only flathead screwdriver and a socket wrench (a tough socket wrench doubles as a hammer in a pinch). End result, I've learned something, but accomplished nothing, so not a total waste I guess.

Now to find a weekend I can take my time and grease the bushings up for real. Any tips on getting the bolts all the way out? The spring gets in the way, and I can't remember how the hell I got them in in the first place. I think my best bet may be adjusting the coilover (Tein Basis Z) to its highest ride height, letting the spring expand and hopefully giving me some room (may take the opportunity to fine tune my ride height anyway). The big spot seems to be where the flat face of the arm (looking directly into the control arm hole for the bushing) meets the bushing; fairly certain the lack of grease is causing the bushing to bind to that area of the control arm and force the part of the bushing that contacts the chassis to turn WITH the bushing.

In short, cleric was right, as usual.

 

Support the car on jack stands, then relocate the jack to under the steering knuckle and drop the strut entirely out. You will need to use twine or a rubber tension strap or something because it will want to pull out and AWAY from the car. Don't worry it won't come springing apart and it's super easy to reinstall if you use a jack under the steering knuckle (probably with a block or wood because you need to make up about 12" of height in the gap). There isnt really any tension it's just awkward AF to get the nuts back on to the top inside the engine bay without the use of a jack to support it from the bottom.

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That way the only part you unbolt is the upper ball joint, the 3 nuts on the top of the strut, then everything is 100% out of the way for the FUCA install and you can actually torque the bolts back on, otherwise you need a torque adapter or a high quality crows foot or something.

 

Be careful not to strain the brake lines, you will need to pop it out of the little rubber holder on the strut, it just snaps back in.

 

I've been getting those bolts out by just jacking up the lower control arm until the bolt head clears the spring coil. You might be able to do that and not have to remove the strut bolt although it's not hard

 

Unfortunately, the castle nut for my ball joint (both sides) is fused on rather well, and I don't have access to an impact wrench to persuade them off (I know I didn't have to take them off when I first installed the arms). I think dropping the strut a bit should work, fairly certain that's what I did to get the bolts in in the first place.