Pirates coilovers
Their on backorder and have a list full of people in line on my350z. I may just take the red ones that racingfirst has. Idk if it's worth the try
All these coilovers are the same pretty much. Only a few really have put time into R&D. We're talking HKS, Tein, Impul, etc. The rest of the super inexpensive companies just pair up the parts with different colors, different parts (quality does vary). I'm not sure why these get so much hype. I understand, it's the price.
Is it really worth paying only in the mid 500's for something that will give out on you eventually, perhaps within a few hundred or thousand miles? I'd recommend going with a used set of Tein Basics. For most people that is a low enough drop. You can always do the spring bucket mod.
Can't recall his username, but if you guys remember Jon, with the DG coupe and my old wheels (Varianza T1S) he was damn low and he was on Basics. Here's a pic.

I have these coilovers for the front and they're crap. Too much rebound and I wanna say more than the Function and Form Type II's..and those were crap IMO. I may be biased, but I have been through 6 or so suspension setups.
I'm not trying to stop people from buying these coilovers, but rather make a better decision. In this case, it really is worth the extra cash on something better.
Is it really worth paying only in the mid 500's for something that will give out on you eventually, perhaps within a few hundred or thousand miles? I'd recommend going with a used set of Tein Basics. For most people that is a low enough drop. You can always do the spring bucket mod.
Can't recall his username, but if you guys remember Jon, with the DG coupe and my old wheels (Varianza T1S) he was damn low and he was on Basics. Here's a pic.

I have these coilovers for the front and they're crap. Too much rebound and I wanna say more than the Function and Form Type II's..and those were crap IMO. I may be biased, but I have been through 6 or so suspension setups.
I'm not trying to stop people from buying these coilovers, but rather make a better decision. In this case, it really is worth the extra cash on something better.
My only gripe which i'm sure you all have read was that they aren't stiff enough...full stiff is no different from soft. I have upgraded (real true style) rears and it helps out a ton. I wouldn't buy them again but they are a good starter setup if your really on a budget.
I know this is a dumb question but what is True style compared to just coils? I'm not to worried about it being crazy stiff. What are they compared to stock suspension? Stiffer than stock?
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...ion-101-a.html
They ride a tad bit stiffer than stock but not by much...i would say its right on par with an oem shock and aftermarket spring setup.
Thanks, yeah that forum pretty much covered it all! Did you just buy some rear coils off someone and kept the front you have? I'm not to worried about it being crazy stiff. They only have the red think i should go with them.
Wasn't happy with them whatsoever far to soft I sold them and got tokico blues and have never been happier just gonna choose some springs for a really minimal drop
Last edited by VincenzG35; Jul 4, 2012 at 07:05 PM.
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
preload is when you jerk off till the edge and then stop, and the jerk off some more. Repeat until you feel like you've built up enough preload
Does it? Not too happy with these, although it may be the installers(mine) fault. I have them in true setup, and it's bouncy... I need to check the top nut and adjust dampening to full stiff and see if this helps
no i was wrong preload is different. watch this video.
I saw a few people have this dampening set up.
Post from Toro12
Stiffness of shock damper & instruction:
Full clockwise is stiff. Like any valve these function by turning the valve stem down to close the oil flow. This is position 1.
Full counter clockwise is soft. This is position 18. The valve stem is raised opening the oil flow across the seat.
Example is 9/18 is 50% stiff I find for my fronts at 2" drop is perfect.
6/18, my rears, are 67% stiff. OK for my rears for now until the remaining mods are done.
I felt different handling moving just from 8 to 6. Havn't played with it more yet.
So, to get my rear shock to 6 I turn the thumb screw clockwise (one stop or click at a time) until it locks, the valve is now closed. I slowly turn the thumb screw counter clockwise slowly 6 clicks
Post from Toro12
Stiffness of shock damper & instruction:
Full clockwise is stiff. Like any valve these function by turning the valve stem down to close the oil flow. This is position 1.
Full counter clockwise is soft. This is position 18. The valve stem is raised opening the oil flow across the seat.
Example is 9/18 is 50% stiff I find for my fronts at 2" drop is perfect.
6/18, my rears, are 67% stiff. OK for my rears for now until the remaining mods are done.
I felt different handling moving just from 8 to 6. Havn't played with it more yet.
So, to get my rear shock to 6 I turn the thumb screw clockwise (one stop or click at a time) until it locks, the valve is now closed. I slowly turn the thumb screw counter clockwise slowly 6 clicks




