Well i got my pads changed from stock to project mu ns and had my front rotors cut. I was going to have my rears swapped but my rotors are warped and don't have the funds currently to replace them because I need new tires first. After I got it I did bed them in. 6 stops from 50ish to about 10. Just noticed project Mu recommended at least 25 miles before any hard driving. I had read people doing bed ins with these and what not but now I think I may have messed up a bit bedding them in. When I brake its kind of like my rotors are bad where I feel that vibration but without my steering wheel shaking or anything. Is this normal with newly cut rotors? Its my first time getting rotors cut and first time with decent brake pads and brakes in general.

Thanks, Mike

 

It's probably the rears causing the vibration if they're warped. Unless the front rotors were below spec (thickness) after being cut, or they were cut improperly, using a different bed-in procedure shouldn't cause issues with the Project Mu's.

 

Just odd because before I got the brakes done the back didn't vibrate but now that I think about it you are right because it usually only happens when I brake from a decent speed with a little force and the rears are being engaged. Changing the fronts first and waiting for the rears is not going to have any effect right? One being a little more worn than the other shouldn't matter. I don't know if this is urban legend but can using your e brake when you park all the time cause your rotors to warp over time? I have been told this but I always thought rotors warp from getting so hot and then them being stationary with brakes applied warps them or something or other.

Thanks, Mike

 

To be honest, the rotor isn't actually "warped". The uneven-ness of the rotor is caused by pad deposits (build-up) left on the rotor from the scenario you described, which is a hot pad being pressed against a hot rotor when stationary. The metal is rarely, and I mean rarely, actually warped. Here's a good article on the topic:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

I've never heard of an e-brake warping a rotor, especially since it usually engages on the inside of the rotor hat, and the e-brake shoes are symmetrically aligned around the inside of the hat.

If you had to wait on one, generally better to do your fronts first because they do most of the braking and dissipate most of the heat. However, I wouldn't wait too long on rears since you lose margin of error under braking and braking distances start to creep up if they're below spec.