Help w/ Compression Rod Install... Stuck Bushing

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  #16  
Old 06-19-2011 | 02:27 PM
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From: Indy
Originally Posted by g35man04
personally after looking through all of the compression rods available...hands down I would install SPL over any bushing into this particular spot.....The energy bushing I dont believe has any pivot angle like SPL since its just the center metal piece around the bolt with the Urethane bushings just set up in there since everyone seems to claim that you dont press them in.
I had this concern with the ES bushings at first also. They are slightly curved on the inside which allows them to pivot. They are also made of a softer poly.

So far I have about 300 miles on them and they are holding up great.
 
  #17  
Old 06-19-2011 | 02:37 PM
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From: Denton, Texas
Originally Posted by MikeDG
I had this concern with the ES bushings at first also. They are slightly curved on the inside which allows them to pivot. They are also made of a softer poly.

So far I have about 300 miles on them and they are holding up great.
yeah man I installed a set of energy today on a members ride and it was pretty straight forward. def a good investment for those in daily driving....if you do want to autocross or do any aggressive driving then def spend the coin and get the SPL.
 
  #18  
Old 08-30-2011 | 03:35 PM
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From: providence R.I
i'm having this exact same problem as we speak and im gonna try some of the methods you suggested but how did you get that metal ring out of the compression rod its self, I didn't want to risk prying it out with a screw driver and mess up the rod. Any suggestions
 
  #19  
Old 08-30-2011 | 11:53 PM
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From: Indy
^ I used a gear puller that I rented from AutoZone to pull the bushing out of the compresson rod. It takes a couple of tons of force to remove the oem bushing, so your not gonna have much luck with a screwdriver. I did this initally hoping that the puller would apply enough downward force to break the rust free, but my inner bushing was so rusted that the whole thing slipped out of the compression rod.

This is what I rented:



I attached the puller arms to the top edges of the compresson rod, and used the threaded stud on the car body to pull the bushing out. It was pretty sketchy because the arms kept slipping off and I had to re-adjust the gear puller many times. Be very careful if you attempt this. If you apply to much force sideways you risk snapping that stud attached to the body.
 
  #20  
Old 08-31-2011 | 12:19 PM
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From: North Bay 707
air chisel!
 
  #21  
Old 09-04-2011 | 08:22 PM
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I had this problem and fixed it with a pipe wrench with a pole attached for more leverage. Once I got it spinning I was able to wiggle it off with channel locks.
 
  #22  
Old 09-07-2011 | 08:52 AM
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I'm going to have to replace mine, but the dealer is charging some outragous amount! can anyone write me up a parts list of everything i need to buy? i got a free inspection from the dealership and they said my compression rod bushings were done and also my rear stabalizer link. it seems that the bushings are just for the front but if they are in the rear also then I'd wanna take care of that link too. I just dont feel like paying $800+ for this job that seems quite time consuming but still simple...
 
  #23  
Old 09-07-2011 | 09:13 AM
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From: Denton, Texas
Originally Posted by Trickstyle
I'm going to have to replace mine, but the dealer is charging some outragous amount! can anyone write me up a parts list of everything i need to buy? i got a free inspection from the dealership and they said my compression rod bushings were done and also my rear stabalizer link. it seems that the bushings are just for the front but if they are in the rear also then I'd wanna take care of that link too. I just dont feel like paying $800+ for this job that seems quite time consuming but still simple...
Where you located at? If your local in Dallas,Texas I do.these on a regular basis....I charge 140 for energy and 120 for spl compression bushings. Most of the time when your down in the front area I would suggest changing your lca bushings as well to Whiteline being that those go really fast once lowered.

I'm on my phone so can't see your location
 
  #24  
Old 11-19-2011 | 01:54 PM
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From: Spring Texas
anyone know if on a AWD you have to pull the front half shaft axels to get it off ?
 
  #25  
Old 02-02-2012 | 04:19 PM
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for both CR bushings and 1 of the upper control arm bushings I got quoted $1,099.93. laughable. I know they have to buy the whole rod instead of just the bushings but thats ridiculous. So... I'm doing both CR bushings and BOTH upper control arm bushings for $104 plus a day under the car.
 
  #26  
Old 03-27-2012 | 06:33 PM
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Would an alignment be necessary after the install?
 
  #27  
Old 12-14-2012 | 05:59 PM
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Same issue here. Compression rod twisted off but the sleeve is corroded to the stud. I’m just getting started on removing the rubber and will be attempting to cut a slit through the metal sleeve. I really don't want to break that stud like others have experienced. What a pain in the butt.
 
  #28  
Old 12-31-2012 | 02:26 AM
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Here is a faster option.
Take your 4" right angle grinder and grind down the rubber and the sleeve.
Just don't grind too fare. You should be done in about 15 min or less!

kp
 
  #29  
Old 01-04-2013 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by g35man04
it seems that most have trouble doing this install and im not sure why...I pulled off mine the other day to install my SPL bushings and man everything was a breeze for me. been lowered on my g35 for 2 years now......tossed alittle bit of PB Blaster on it about 2-3 hours before I started...I undid the bottom nut first on the front suspension knuckle to free up any tension against the compression rod.

Then I took my crow bar in between the compression rod and the body and just pried down alittle and both just slid right off. I didnt use any form of a power tool either. I broke loose all the bolts first with my breaker bar just to get everything started and then hit it with my air rachet on low speed and everything came off like a breeze


Note that whenever they came off there was def rust on the bolt and I can see where some can have problems but mine went pretty dang smooth.

not sure how bad mine were but they were all def blown.

personally after looking through all of the compression rods available...hands down I would install SPL over any bushing into this particular spot.....The energy bushing I dont believe has any pivot angle like SPL since its just the center metal piece around the bolt with the Urethane bushings just set up in there since everyone seems to claim that you dont press them in.
looks good! I like the SPL bushings. how is the ride quality after you installed them?
 
  #30  
Old 05-12-2013 | 11:54 AM
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Guys this article was a savior. I did the exact same procedure after hitting the arm to the body of the car was not working nor pb blaster. Also ended up using a grinder to the ripped bushing after using a 6" puller to it.
 


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