DIY SPC Rear Camber & Toe Kit Install

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  #31  
Old 01-27-2012, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by hdsupercrewf150
Silver tiburon why did you replace your what looks to be TC Sportline Camber arms with the SPC? I just picked up a set before seeing your thread.
No reason in particular except that I got a full SPC kit and just decided to go with the SPC all the way around the car. I wasn't really sure what brand the other arms were until you just told me. They were already installed when I purchased the car by the previous owner. To tell you the truth, I was under the assumption those were the stock arms until someone reading this thread corrected me. I will say that the SPC arm is a better built part though. If you look at the photo, the SPC arm actually has a bushing where it attaches to the car. When I removed the old arms they had some play where the little rotator ball joint sits in the arm. The flaw with this arm's design is that the joint isn't lubricated, unless I suppose you constantly got under the car and somehow lubricated it. I guess this isn't much different from a bushing wearing out, but with a bushing at least you get some shock absorption with the wear, where as with the metal joint there is none at all. I'm not sure what the cost difference between the TC arm and the SPC arm is, but if it's not significant I would definitely go with the SPC arm.
 
  #32  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver tiburon
Yeah I still have it. PM me your addy and I'll throw it in the mail.

where did you get the stencil? and can you just file the inside closer to the wheel where the rear camber bolt goes?
 
  #33  
Old 04-07-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by oxmis
where did you get the stencil? and can you just file the inside closer to the wheel where the rear camber bolt goes?
The stencil came with the SPC kit I purchased. I think in the second part of your question you are asking if you can use a file only (cut the hole without a dremmel)?? If that is your question I would say no, unless you want to be there for hours. If that's not what you are trying to ask please reword it so it makes more sense and I'll try and answer it again. Hope this helps.
 
  #34  
Old 04-08-2012, 03:19 PM
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Idk man I did a lot of research before get my camber kit and ive seen lots of spc rear camber arms snap at the locking nut and the front arm shim thing is a F**king joke...... I went spl cuz they are super beefy..... I know its a bit pricy but its the last set u will buy and spl gives you the most adjustability out for the price.
 
  #35  
Old 04-08-2012, 03:23 PM
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Also any shop should be able to install the toe bolts for around 60 bucks ...... I got mine done for 40.
 
  #36  
Old 04-08-2012, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver tiburon
The stencil came with the SPC kit I purchased. I think in the second part of your question you are asking if you can use a file only (cut the hole without a dremmel)?? If that is your question I would say no, unless you want to be there for hours. If that's not what you are trying to ask please reword it so it makes more sense and I'll try and answer it again. Hope this helps.
Yeah sorry ment to say cut the side closest to the diff instead of both sides of the stencil marks?
 
  #37  
Old 04-09-2012, 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by oxmis
Yeah sorry ment to say cut the side closest to the diff instead of both sides of the stencil marks?
Yes, that is possible but IMO you should NOT do this. This is step # 2 that I wrote under the SPC toe bolt install:


Originally Posted by Silver tiburon
2.) Most people will tell you that you only need to cut the inside portion of the metal. Although this is true as far as actual alignment procedures go, the idea may end up harming more than helping. The reason you need to elongate the hole is so that there is enough clearance for the cam bolt to move back and forth in the slot as the cam bolt rotates. By only cutting out the inner part of the slot, the cam bolt will not fully slide from side to side. This will keep you from being able to rotate the cam 360 degrees. This won’t matter when trying to align the car, as you will only need to draw the spring bucket in towards the center of the vehicle. Cutting out the inner part of the slot will still allow you to do this. The problem will come when the alignment tech doesn’t know you only trimmed one side of the hole, and forces the bolt to turn 360 degrees in a hole that’s only cut to allow a little over 180 degrees of rotation. The toe bolt is made of steel, where as the hole it is in is only made of aluminum. The aluminum hole will easily give way to the harder steel bolt with enough torque. Unless you are doing the alignment yourself, or have enough faith in your ability to explain this to the tech and then trust him to not screw things up, I would take the extra 10 minutes it takes to cut out both sides of the slot.
 
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TougeMonsterG35
Idk man I did a lot of research before get my camber kit and ive seen lots of spc rear camber arms snap at the locking nut and the front arm shim thing is a F**king joke...... I went spl cuz they are super beefy..... I know its a bit pricy but its the last set u will buy and spl gives you the most adjustability out for the price.
Uhhhhh ok? I did tons of research before purchasing the SPC kit, and this is the first I've ever heard of this. I've never seen or heard of the ball joint stud snapping off. I'm interested in where you got this information, especially since you say it happens a lot. Pics or it didn't happen. Additionally, if the stud is over-torqued during the install I could definitely see this happening, but that goes for any ball joint. I say that only to point out an improper installation would likely be the cause of this, not a poorly made product. And the "front arm shim thing"? I'm not sure what you are even talking about? There are no shims on the front arms at all??? Maybe you refering to the caster adjuster, which is not a shim, and it's definitely not a "****ing joke" for any reason I know of? Regardless, the G35 SPC arms are covered by a lifetime warranty which would include the problem you stated above. SPCs customer service is excellent as well, as I have worked with them extensively. SPL offers no warranty on their parts that is written anywhere I can find. I'm sure they probably do have something guarding their customers from manufacturer defects, but I can't find it anywhere. SPC is a well known and large company that provides great customer support, and in my opinion is a better product for the price when used for a street application. SPL no doubt makes a very good product as well, but for the price, I believe you are getting just as much for your money with the SPC arm. In the end it is going to be user preference. SPC and SPL arms are both very good choices to accomplish the same thing.

Originally Posted by TougeMonsterG35
Also any shop should be able to install the toe bolts for around 60 bucks ...... I got mine done for 40.
What shop is this? Installing the toe bolts will take at least and hour from start to finish? Most shop hourly labor rates are double what you posted. Aside from whoever did yours, I think you would be hard pressed to find anyone to to this for $60, much less $40. You can't get an oil change for $40 dollars at most shops, much less a suspension modification.
 

Last edited by Silver tiburon; 04-09-2012 at 03:58 AM.
  #39  
Old 04-09-2012, 10:26 AM
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Wow your pc doesn't have Google search????? Google spc/eibach fail...... Everything from sebrings to mazdaspeed 3's ........ Go big or go home cuz at one time ours car went for 30k , treat it that way.... I'm just saying don't get mad bro
 
  #40  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TougeMonsterG35
Wow your pc doesn't have Google search????? Google spc/eibach fail...... Everything from sebrings to mazdaspeed 3's ........ Go big or go home cuz at one time ours car went for 30k , treat it that way.... I'm just saying don't get mad bro
Lol I'm definitely not mad, just curious where you are getting all the stuff you are posting here in my thread, thereby cluttering it up with misinformation. Unlike you, I don't Google something, read a few horror stories and then make a decision based on he said she said crap about a product. FACT: I have SPC arms installed, and they are great. And I didn't pay $760 for them either. Last time I checked I'm driving a G35, so why would I give a **** about someone who has a Sebring or Mazda 3 who says SPC is junk? If you would like to post a few links here of G35 owners who have had the issue you speak of then feel free. Otherwise, quit cluttering up this thread with nonsense. As far as "at one time ours car went for 30k , treat it that way" goes, I dont' even know WTF that's supposed to mean. If by that you mean that because the G35 was once purchased or valued at $30,000 dollars, then it only makes send to purchase the most expensive parts possible simply because they are expensive, then that's the dumbest thing I have ever heard. How about this, post some links, facts or personal experience proving your position or don't post at all. You didn't provide a rebuttal to either of the questions I posed, and should refrain from doing so unless you have something besides a Google search about Sebrings and Mazda 3s to back up your position. Oh, and don't forget to tell us all where we can go to get our rear toe bolts installed for $60 bucks...
 
  #41  
Old 04-10-2012, 12:05 PM
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Ok follow me and use the search on here and type spc fail and you see a guy that has a broken spc front a arm on his 03 and after only one year or so he has to buy a new set..... Junk...... and the reason I was talking about those other car was because the parts are similar that's all. Do as you feel man its your ride and just forget I had an opinion. Also I got my bolts put in when I was getting my alignment done at Bigbear performance in Salinas ca 60 for the alignment and 40 for the bolts. Have a nice day
 
  #42  
Old 08-13-2012, 09:57 PM
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I have a quick question...you use the stencil and elongate all 4 holes, is this correct?
 
  #43  
Old 08-13-2012, 10:25 PM
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Yes all four
 
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  #44  
Old 08-13-2012, 10:32 PM
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Anyone not able to get there rear camber arm bolt towards the inner of the car off?

Mine seems to be seized to the bushing. I couldent even get it out with a sludge hammer/impact gun breaker bar etc. I also have to re use the bolt so I don't know what to do?

Find a new bolt and get a shop to cut the bolt out?
 
  #45  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Canadiotica
Anyone not able to get there rear camber arm bolt towards the inner of the car off?

Mine seems to be seized to the bushing. I couldent even get it out with a sludge hammer/impact gun breaker bar etc. I also have to re use the bolt so I don't know what to do?

Find a new bolt and get a shop to cut the bolt out?
Heat it with a MAPP torch. Get it really hot and then try to loosen it. http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&s...9,r:0,s:0,i:82
 


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