I have not removed my pads to see yet. Normally your front pads should wear out faster than rear. And I had minimal to none vibration. The vibration that I had, I traced to bad bushings.
I will be replacing few bushings sometime within next couple of weeks and I'll check the status of my pads then.

 

Yeah, while replacing the shocks, I just noticed the LCA bushing is split. I replaced the control arms a month or two ago.

 

UPDATE 12/11/2014
Well I wanted to do my next update when I turn the rotors for the first time and swap for the new pads, but it is not happening. I am truly impressed with this here set up.
About a month ago I was changing suspension bushings and doing some other work to suspension and took a closer look at rotors and pads. My pads have plenty of meat still left on the bone. I'd say at least half. My rotors are in excellent condition. Wear out groove is minimal, hardly noticeable. Considering that is has been over 50k for these rotors and pads I am very impressed with the way they perform. My previous set up lasted little over 100k and been turned three times in it's lifetime. I'm nearing a half of a lifetime on this setup and everything is still original and performs quite well.
I believe this is a best rotor/pad set up I ever had on a car.
Next update when I'm swapping pads or something major happens to the brakes.

 

Impressive to say the least!

 

UPDATE 05/23/2015
65K Later I finally turned (machined) the rotors. One of the front ones was a little more warped than the other so it took more passes to even it out than the other one did. Finish on the rotor performs well as you can see on the pictures. Even after machining the rotors I still have enough depth in the slots. Originally I was worried that they are not deep enough and will not remain sufficient slots after rotors are turned.
Pads preform equally well. After 65k there is still 50% of pad material remains. On one side at the front pad had made a small groove in the rotor. I think that there was just a hard piece of material that instead of wearing out, wore out the rotor. So I sanded all the pads down to flatten even them out so the brake with full surface on the newly machined rotors.

 

Arn35, my question to you would be, "Did you do the bed in process" after you installed the HAWK HPS pads?
Know Joker because most drivers don't follow the instructions and do the bed in process which gives the HAWK pads 30% better stopping power hot or cold! I've been using HAWK pads since 2006 driven the entire left coast rain/shine and never had an issue with them not grabbing!
Gary

 

Perhaps you are right.
Most performance pads require to come up to operating temp to provide maximum braking.
Even my pads show lack of grab until they warm up.

 

Bed in process covers the rotors with a coating from the new pads using extreme heat allowing them to grab under all conditions. Search Hawk bed in process, if anyone is interested in how it works...Gary

 

Non-slotted/drilled installed @ 90,000 miles, with Akebono ceramic pads, specifically resulting from this thread.

Maybe I'll repost in a few years with progress/status, if I change them again at any point.

The black painted hat is really all I want to last over the years, hate the red rust ring look.

 

UPDATE 08/06/2017
As of right now rotors been on the car for over 100k. Current millage is 220k+ , rotors been put on at 123k.
I do have a warp/hot sports on the front rotors that require another turn. We'll see if the rotors are thick enough to handle another one.

 

In order to have an opinion surely you must have used them on your car, not just listened to someone else's line of b.s. ?
I've used HAWK HPS pads (not ceramic) since '06, driven in snow and ankle deep rain frequently on the Pacific Coast Hwy with traffic going 65 mph and never felt my brakes weren't going to stop me. Once I added DBA rotors the ability to stop get even better because they're far superior to OE rotors! It is possible they don't stop as well if you haven't done the "Bed In" process which I've recommended for years! (Search) So all the b.s. about how they don't stop when cold or wet is just someone talking out their backside!
Gary

 

Gary I suppose we'll be duking it out over the HPS pads for eternity. There's too much hate from a lot of people on here over the years that have had negative experiences with them. So, it isn't just a bedding in issue. I have posted numerous times my bad experience, even recently and will never buy those pad again and recommend anyone looking at them to read both the good and the bad reviews on here.

I bought them initially because there is a lot of support on here for them and I ignored the bad reviews. Not sure why one product has so many different opinions on whether they are a good thing to have or not but it is what it is. You'll keep recommending them and I'll keep telling people to stay away. C'est la vie I suppose........

 

This is a great thread. I don't care too much about stopping power, but I do care about longevity and my parts being rust free. Are these the "Blackdash Series Sported 1-piece rotors"?

 

Get centric cryo treated ones and you'll be solid till the car gets drifted into a curb.

 

The OP started this thread off saying that the Stoptech ones he had only lasted a few months before they started rusting. Stoptech and Centric are the same company.