Plese help me :-(
#16
So get a toe kit? or just rotate tires more often that usual? thanks again for the help my dude,really really appreciate it
#17
If i remember correctly i couldnt get back into spec without a camber kit. It was SLIGHTLY over the max factory numbers but the good news is that front doesnt wear out as much as the rear so you should be ok as long as you get toe back into spec. Just flip your tires once in a while and you will get more life out of them.
#18
I copied and pasted this from a different site, but I think that it illustrates it pretty well in my opinion.
Toe, simply put, is direction the wheels are pointing. Zero toe would be perfectly parallel wheels pointing straight forward. Toe-out means the front of the tires are farther apart than the rear of the tires. Toe-in means the front of the tires are closer together than the rear of the tires. Toe has different effects on tire wear in the front and in the rear. When the front wheels are toed out, the inside edge of the tire scuff and wear out early. When the front wheels are toed in, the outside edge will scuff and wear out early. However, on rear tires toe usually causes a diagonal cupping wear pattern whether the tires have too much toe in or too much toe out. The diagonal cups are caused by the tires hopping and skipping along the road. It's hard to explain why, but I'll give it a try. Draw an overview of a car with 4 wheels on a piece of paper, make the front wheels parallel, but toe the rear wheels in substantially (say 45 deg. in just to make the demo easier) Now draw lines parallel with the rear tires following their path of travel if they were to roll. You will notice that the lines you have drawn intersect. Since the tires are attached to the car they can not intersect. Instead they roll a bit, then skid outward, roll a bit, then skid outward again. This goes on and on until the tires have diagonal cups worn into the treads where they have been skidding outward.
Camber is the lean of the wheel. If the top of the wheel tilted away from the car, that is called positive camber. If the top of the wheel is tilted in towards the car, that is called negative camber. Camber can cause a pull to one side or the other depending on the direction of the lean. The car will pull in the direction of the wheel with the most positive camber. However, if both sides have the same amount of negative or positive camber, they will cancel each other out and the car will not pull. Camber can cause premature tire wear, but is not as hard on tires as toe is.
I hope that clears it up for you a little bit..
Toe, simply put, is direction the wheels are pointing. Zero toe would be perfectly parallel wheels pointing straight forward. Toe-out means the front of the tires are farther apart than the rear of the tires. Toe-in means the front of the tires are closer together than the rear of the tires. Toe has different effects on tire wear in the front and in the rear. When the front wheels are toed out, the inside edge of the tire scuff and wear out early. When the front wheels are toed in, the outside edge will scuff and wear out early. However, on rear tires toe usually causes a diagonal cupping wear pattern whether the tires have too much toe in or too much toe out. The diagonal cups are caused by the tires hopping and skipping along the road. It's hard to explain why, but I'll give it a try. Draw an overview of a car with 4 wheels on a piece of paper, make the front wheels parallel, but toe the rear wheels in substantially (say 45 deg. in just to make the demo easier) Now draw lines parallel with the rear tires following their path of travel if they were to roll. You will notice that the lines you have drawn intersect. Since the tires are attached to the car they can not intersect. Instead they roll a bit, then skid outward, roll a bit, then skid outward again. This goes on and on until the tires have diagonal cups worn into the treads where they have been skidding outward.
Camber is the lean of the wheel. If the top of the wheel tilted away from the car, that is called positive camber. If the top of the wheel is tilted in towards the car, that is called negative camber. Camber can cause a pull to one side or the other depending on the direction of the lean. The car will pull in the direction of the wheel with the most positive camber. However, if both sides have the same amount of negative or positive camber, they will cancel each other out and the car will not pull. Camber can cause premature tire wear, but is not as hard on tires as toe is.
I hope that clears it up for you a little bit..
The following users liked this post:
nbarkins (11-01-2012)
#19
So obviously a camber kit fixes camber problems. What fixes toe problems?
again, you guys are beyond wonderful for helpin!
#20
Adding negative camber will make the toe go out
Making camber go positive will make the toe go in
Another method of adjusting toe without the adjusting the tie rods. Only to get that little toe in or out that you need!
Or, you can go aftermarket and do whatever you want!! Specifically coilovers!
The following users liked this post:
nbarkins (11-02-2012)
#21
As long as your toe is within spec I do not think you will need a camber kit on such a small drop. Camber is really not as big of a deal as most people make it out to be. It's the combination of camber and toe that totally murders tires.
The following users liked this post:
nbarkins (11-02-2012)
#22
Big thanks to all the responses,and in depth answers!
But it might of made me more confused trying to interpret the different points everyone's making lol :-/
So if i drop it slightly, a front end alignment will make everything good to go, or no? And if that's the case, what is the cut off(lowest drop) before needing something other than alignment?
Once again, ,many thanks to ALL, the appreciation is massive!
PS any of you done the "spring mount cut DIY" any input there?
But it might of made me more confused trying to interpret the different points everyone's making lol :-/
So if i drop it slightly, a front end alignment will make everything good to go, or no? And if that's the case, what is the cut off(lowest drop) before needing something other than alignment?
Once again, ,many thanks to ALL, the appreciation is massive!
PS any of you done the "spring mount cut DIY" any input there?
#23
Any time you change your ride height, even by a small amount, get an alignment. This is an expensive mistake people make by not getting an alignment. Alignments are maybe $80 at most for your car since you don't need custom specs, yet new tires are $$$$.
If you're super paranoid you can get camber kits, but as its been mentioned with a slight drop it is not really a big deal as far as camber is concerned. Be weary of your toe, and monitor your tire wear!
If you're super paranoid you can get camber kits, but as its been mentioned with a slight drop it is not really a big deal as far as camber is concerned. Be weary of your toe, and monitor your tire wear!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jkuti13
G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
25
04-10-2015 01:34 PM