Ok just painted the car put on the BC coilover, spc camber kit all around. So I went today to get it aligned and they said the front still had a little bit of - camber and the a arms where already maxed out. He said it was very little. Has anyone else had this problem. Now the rear the right side is perfect but the left side he side he needed a little more on the toe bolt. When i did the toe bolts I solted the hole with the little stencil they provide. He said I needed to grind down the edge of the lip where the toe washer rolls on. I just thought that with all the right stuff I would be able to get a perfect alignment and not have to hack anything up. I don't even think I went that low. Also I hear all the road noise I'm not likeing it much, I know I still have to play with the coilovers to get them dialed in right.

 

Did you install the shims?

I removed the shims a while ago and both of my A-arms are maxed out as well. I forget what the actual camber is but I don't have any abnormal tire wear in the front. My rear is off though because I don't have any toe bolts.

 

No just the arms.

 

This is one issue we all have with installers and alignment mechanics not knowing who to install and work with mod parts. I had to tell my alignment guy how to set up my SPL a-arms to maximize adjust ability. Gotta use shims and even create your own along with backing off the big azz bolts 3/4" to get it right! (forgot what they're called) Finally I'm back to OE specs after two sets of a-arms and 4 times on the alignment rack. Even scarier my alignment guys asked me, "When did you get the 19" wheels?" Oh about 5 years ago, and you're just now noticing?
Gary

 

Gonna look into the shims. Is there a way to reduce the road noise.

 

Road noise comes from two areas, misalignment and poor quality or worn tires. If you've run your tires for thousands of miles without having your alignment at OE specs that may be why you're hearing the excessive noise. And then there are just noisy tires....
Gary

 

With my SPC arms, the driver's side maxed out at -1.2 deg (same as OEM arms with my drop) and the passenger side maxed out at -0.8. I'm only on OEM 350Z springs so I imagine any more low would equal more negative camber.

Right now I only have the shims on one side and adjusted to -0.8 degrees camber. Mechanic was worried there might not be enough adjustment to installed the shim on both sides.

So basically, if you still have too much camber, install the shims. Instant +2 degrees, then just adjust with the arms. He should have given you a print out of the final specs after the alignment. You can go off that to see if you really want to deal with the shims, or let it roll.

 

Sounds good gonna install the shim kit this weekend.