i got camber issue with 350z gf210 tanabe springs
#1
i got camber issue with 350z gf210 tanabe springs
what it do everyone?!...
I own a 2003 g35 sedan, and have lowered the suspension with tanabe gf210 springs for 350z, the drop is near perfect for my liking; but my tires are getting negative camber wear. I've read that with that spring setup I will need a front and rear camber kit, my question here is do I also need the toe bolt or anything else the front and rear camber kit to align it close to 0'.
I've also talked to a shop that said they can align it without a camber kit, I'm looking to do it all at once, and just need to know if the toe bolt is necessary.
thanks for reading
I own a 2003 g35 sedan, and have lowered the suspension with tanabe gf210 springs for 350z, the drop is near perfect for my liking; but my tires are getting negative camber wear. I've read that with that spring setup I will need a front and rear camber kit, my question here is do I also need the toe bolt or anything else the front and rear camber kit to align it close to 0'.
I've also talked to a shop that said they can align it without a camber kit, I'm looking to do it all at once, and just need to know if the toe bolt is necessary.
thanks for reading
#4
"what it do?" please stop.
Anyway. Anytime you modify the suspension geometry things change and your alignment is no longer "aligned" properly. In the world of lowered cars negative camber wear is an acceptable loss for most people. But, theres a littany of aftermarket control arms, camber/toe kits to be able to adjust everything back or close to OE spec. Keep in mind that a lot of shops will do a pre-alignment check first and if you have bad rod ends, ball joints, etc that the alignment will not be very effective or that they wont perform the alignment at all unless said parts are fixed prior.
A lot of people will just ride it out and when the inside of the tires start to get down there, just flip the tires on the wheel and start fresh until the other side is gone. Rinse, Repeat.
But in order to eliminate the camber wear you will need to invest in quality camber/toe kits and get a new alignment. You can get a standard OE spec alignment, or if you are like me and prefer to squeeze just that little bit of extra performance out of your car, you can shop around at local speed shops and have them do a "performance alignment" to properly set-up the car for the twists. Its costs extra, yes. Is it worth it? absolutely. Personal preference however, as I dont really care about camber wear. i just buy used tires and chew them up.
Anyway. Anytime you modify the suspension geometry things change and your alignment is no longer "aligned" properly. In the world of lowered cars negative camber wear is an acceptable loss for most people. But, theres a littany of aftermarket control arms, camber/toe kits to be able to adjust everything back or close to OE spec. Keep in mind that a lot of shops will do a pre-alignment check first and if you have bad rod ends, ball joints, etc that the alignment will not be very effective or that they wont perform the alignment at all unless said parts are fixed prior.
A lot of people will just ride it out and when the inside of the tires start to get down there, just flip the tires on the wheel and start fresh until the other side is gone. Rinse, Repeat.
But in order to eliminate the camber wear you will need to invest in quality camber/toe kits and get a new alignment. You can get a standard OE spec alignment, or if you are like me and prefer to squeeze just that little bit of extra performance out of your car, you can shop around at local speed shops and have them do a "performance alignment" to properly set-up the car for the twists. Its costs extra, yes. Is it worth it? absolutely. Personal preference however, as I dont really care about camber wear. i just buy used tires and chew them up.
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