I am confused as to which way i need to go to replace the OEM shocks or struts, or springs.
I no longer take this car to the dealer to avoid their prices and at this mileage what do i need to purchase.
Do i purchase shocks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120655440033
Is this all i need or am I missing something? (struts, springs) Please help
This is a 2004 G35 5A Coupe.
Thank you
I no longer take this car to the dealer to avoid their prices and at this mileage what do i need to purchase.
Do i purchase shocks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120655440033
Is this all i need or am I missing something? (struts, springs) Please help
This is a 2004 G35 5A Coupe.Thank you
Registered User
depending on problem. If it was me I would replace both the shocks/struts and springs. even check your sway bar or control arms or bushings. these car have durable and strong suspension but bushings on em are garbage.
Registered User
You need both the front and rears are slightly different. But, the terms are used interchangeably I noticed. You will also probably need new mounts, since at the mileage they might be worn out. Might as well get new boots as well, since the OEM ones are probably worn/torn.
What makes you think you need shocks and struts? I replaced mine at around 120K, but probably would have lasted a lot longer. FYI it's a real PITA to replace these and can be dangerous if you've never done it before. You need to rent a Machpherson Strut compressor from a chain store and make sure you get ones that have clips and safety pins. An impact wrench works best also otherwise you'll spend a long time compressing them by hand. Also, pick up some offset wrenches will make screwing the top nut back on so much easier!
I had to Dremel off my top nuts on the OEM, since they were so old and seized.
I would check your lower control arms, sway bars, and parts like that first.
What makes you think you need shocks and struts? I replaced mine at around 120K, but probably would have lasted a lot longer. FYI it's a real PITA to replace these and can be dangerous if you've never done it before. You need to rent a Machpherson Strut compressor from a chain store and make sure you get ones that have clips and safety pins. An impact wrench works best also otherwise you'll spend a long time compressing them by hand. Also, pick up some offset wrenches will make screwing the top nut back on so much easier!
I had to Dremel off my top nuts on the OEM, since they were so old and seized.
I would check your lower control arms, sway bars, and parts like that first.
Quote:
What makes you think you need shocks and struts? I replaced mine at around 120K, but probably would have lasted a lot longer. FYI it's a real PITA to replace these and can be dangerous if you've never done it before. You need to rent a Machpherson Strut compressor from a chain store and make sure you get ones that have clips and safety pins. An impact wrench works best also otherwise you'll spend a long time compressing them by hand. Also, pick up some offset wrenches will make screwing the top nut back on so much easier!
I had to Dremel off my top nuts on the OEM, since they were so old and seized.
I would check your lower control arms, sway bars, and parts like that first.
Because the only suspension work ever done on the car was lower control arms around 140k. Now i am older and figured maybe i should have treated the car better. I always only focused on engine and never suspension.Originally Posted by coffeysm
You need both the front and rears are slightly different. But, the terms are used interchangeably I noticed. You will also probably need new mounts, since at the mileage they might be worn out. Might as well get new boots as well, since the OEM ones are probably worn/torn.What makes you think you need shocks and struts? I replaced mine at around 120K, but probably would have lasted a lot longer. FYI it's a real PITA to replace these and can be dangerous if you've never done it before. You need to rent a Machpherson Strut compressor from a chain store and make sure you get ones that have clips and safety pins. An impact wrench works best also otherwise you'll spend a long time compressing them by hand. Also, pick up some offset wrenches will make screwing the top nut back on so much easier!
I had to Dremel off my top nuts on the OEM, since they were so old and seized.
I would check your lower control arms, sway bars, and parts like that first.
Here is what i have so far... What else would i require?
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BT6&...@sbcglobal.net
Registered User
Looks good, but you might not need the rear mounts or rear bellows. I bought new rear mounts and ended up not needing them. I just re-used the original mount and plastic bellow that came with the car, since it was still in excellent condition.
If you're planning on doing this job yourself. You need to the following:
Strut Compressor
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=70135_0_0_
This is why it's dangerous! Fast forward to 10:25 and don't do what that idiot did.
Here is the proper way to do it:
I'd also pickup an impact wrench if you don't have one to tighten it down. I bought an electric one at Harbor Freight for like 50 bucks. Use it a lot now for lug nuts and other things I can.
Some wrenches like these will also make putting the top nut down easier.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...1&blockType=G1
You'll need a large breaker bar also and some long extensions to remove the rear struts. Don't forget the Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster! LOL.
The rears are also a lot easier to change since the spring is separate you just pop out the old ones and put the new ones on.
If you're planning on doing this job yourself. You need to the following:
Strut Compressor
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=70135_0_0_
This is why it's dangerous! Fast forward to 10:25 and don't do what that idiot did.
Here is the proper way to do it:
I'd also pickup an impact wrench if you don't have one to tighten it down. I bought an electric one at Harbor Freight for like 50 bucks. Use it a lot now for lug nuts and other things I can.
Some wrenches like these will also make putting the top nut down easier.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...1&blockType=G1
You'll need a large breaker bar also and some long extensions to remove the rear struts. Don't forget the Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster! LOL.
The rears are also a lot easier to change since the spring is separate you just pop out the old ones and put the new ones on.
CLUB MODERATOR
Quote:
2 shocks (rear) 2 struts (front). Front differentiate Left to Right. Originally Posted by Gdirtyfive55
Our cars have 4 shocks. With that many miles I would replace the whole suspension.
You no need to worry about springs, they do not wear out unless there is visible rust damage or cracks. Mostly only shocks struts need to be replaced.
Rest of the bushings people mentioned above are separate suspension components that can be changed separately, but if worn out, should be changed at the same time.
Worn out shocks/struts can cause improper tire wear, so as the worn out bushings.
Question. You mention bushings - do you mean these?
I see a few different ones listed on this page.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...ords=whiteline
and finally, lets say the springs are rusted or cracked, is there a type that is considered close to OEM?
Thank you all.
I see a few different ones listed on this page.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...ords=whiteline
and finally, lets say the springs are rusted or cracked, is there a type that is considered close to OEM?
Thank you all.
CLUB MODERATOR
Quote:
I see a few different ones listed on this page.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...ords=whiteline
and finally, lets say the springs are rusted or cracked, is there a type that is considered close to OEM?
Thank you all.
most common one to go is a compression rod bushingOriginally Posted by MetalCow
Question. You mention bushings - do you mean these?I see a few different ones listed on this page.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...ords=whiteline
and finally, lets say the springs are rusted or cracked, is there a type that is considered close to OEM?
Thank you all.

I guess the last thing is which springs to get? Everything looks like they are performance based.
Registered User
You shouldn't need springs unless they're broke. If you're just getting KYB and not lowering your car or anything I'd stay with OEM.
Registered User
Quote:
You no need to worry about springs, they do not wear out unless there is visible rust damage or cracks. Mostly only shocks struts need to be replaced.
Rest of the bushings people mentioned above are separate suspension components that can be changed separately, but if worn out, should be changed at the same time.
Worn out shocks/struts can cause improper tire wear, so as the worn out bushings.
No. They're all 4 shocks. Originally Posted by JOKER
2 shocks (rear) 2 struts (front). Front differentiate Left to Right. You no need to worry about springs, they do not wear out unless there is visible rust damage or cracks. Mostly only shocks struts need to be replaced.
Rest of the bushings people mentioned above are separate suspension components that can be changed separately, but if worn out, should be changed at the same time.
Worn out shocks/struts can cause improper tire wear, so as the worn out bushings.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/differenceshocksstruts.cfm
Registered User
Just lower your car with the eibach pro kit. Real mild drop, looks great, tightens $hit up. Replace yer whole suspension. I just did and its awesome.