Thud/Clunking when going over bumps/cracks in the road
Thud/Clunking when going over bumps/cracks in the road
Hey there. I have a 2004 g35 coupe. New here and ive done a couple searches but i thought id just post my own thread. Last few months ive noticed a clunking/thud in my front end when i go over bumps/cracks in the road. Ive had 4 different mechanics look at it, poke around at it with a pry bar and they all tell me that everything is tight, theres no play but they definitely here the noise. The first mechanic replaces me right inner tie rod and my upper control arm saying that was the problem but it didnt fix it. Also im not sure if this is related but when i brake or turn i hear almost like a popping noise front the front end. It doesnt happen all the time but i definitely hear it.
Car has 110,000 kms
Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and if so what was the fix. I know i can just replace part by part but i dont wanna put money into it that i dont have to.
Thanks in advance
Car has 110,000 kms
Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and if so what was the fix. I know i can just replace part by part but i dont wanna put money into it that i dont have to.
Thanks in advance
Yeah there are many things in could be, including sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, shock mounts, Tie rod ends, but I sell comp rods, so its comp rods. Haha
Its easiest to really see if you have the tire off, but you can see it with the tire on.
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Compression rods are knocking at no or minimal suspension travel-like cracks. More like a rattle, predominantly at low speed(10-30km/h). Due to your car's mileage both compression rod and lower BJ can be bad.
1) Disconnect sway bar, tie up end links out of the way and drive around for 20 minutes.If noise is still there:
2) With wheels off and car supported by jack stands-grab upper A-arm with one hand and front knuckle(bowed vertical thing) and give A arm a good shake left-right-up- down. Bad BJ will knock.If all is tight:
3) Unbolt and pull out shock fork- to remove shock/spring tension from control arm. This might be difficult with stock suspension-spring compressor will be required. I have coilovers which are way shorter so it was piece of cake
4) Push up suspension assembly to approximate level as if car is on the ground(lower control arm is horizontal).
5) Bad compression rod ball joint will move with minimal effort with one hand-try rotating compression rod around its axis.For reference-good ball joints are VERY hard to to move(gotta really put some shoulder into it)-they feel like they are almost seized.
Lower ball joints creak/pop when steering wheel is turned-even when car is not moving and they knock a bit when you apply brakes and just about to stop(weight transfer front to rear).If in doubt ball joint tension can be measured by spring scale.
Pry bar method at a garage does not work unless things are falling off the car- mechanics pry parts apart in the same direction as slop of bad ball joint-slack is already taken by wheel weight and tension of spring.
Get new BJ grommets-little black cones, if replacement arms do not come with them. Do not reuse old ones.
Good luck!
1) Disconnect sway bar, tie up end links out of the way and drive around for 20 minutes.If noise is still there:
2) With wheels off and car supported by jack stands-grab upper A-arm with one hand and front knuckle(bowed vertical thing) and give A arm a good shake left-right-up- down. Bad BJ will knock.If all is tight:
3) Unbolt and pull out shock fork- to remove shock/spring tension from control arm. This might be difficult with stock suspension-spring compressor will be required. I have coilovers which are way shorter so it was piece of cake
4) Push up suspension assembly to approximate level as if car is on the ground(lower control arm is horizontal).
5) Bad compression rod ball joint will move with minimal effort with one hand-try rotating compression rod around its axis.For reference-good ball joints are VERY hard to to move(gotta really put some shoulder into it)-they feel like they are almost seized.
Lower ball joints creak/pop when steering wheel is turned-even when car is not moving and they knock a bit when you apply brakes and just about to stop(weight transfer front to rear).If in doubt ball joint tension can be measured by spring scale.
Pry bar method at a garage does not work unless things are falling off the car- mechanics pry parts apart in the same direction as slop of bad ball joint-slack is already taken by wheel weight and tension of spring.
Get new BJ grommets-little black cones, if replacement arms do not come with them. Do not reuse old ones.
Good luck!
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