Handeling HELP
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,653
Likes: 5
From: Sugar Land,Texas
Originally Posted by Gthre35ive
I always get great advice from this site. I need opinions on what is the best mod I can put for tight handleing when taking fast turns.
suspension upgrade is called for.
Sway bar stiffness depends on what total roll couple stiffness ratios you want......which depends on the exact weight of car as driven.........driver and fuel load.
Changing the rear weight by 100 pound [full fuel to empty fuel] has dramactic effect when you get closer to neutrality........why racers have variable rear bar stiffness controls.
Same with wet vs. dry handling. What is optimum for dry will be way too much stiffness for wet.
Remember sway bars are just springs [act like springs] in parallel with vehicle body support springs [main springs]. Sway bars are not oscillation controlled by shocks which are just designed to deal with main springs. So ideally sway bars should always be half or less the main spring rate [as translated to the actual wheel rate of the combination].
Many use 10-20% stiffer springs [1" lowering] and a matching 10-20% even 30% stiffer rear bar..........netting say a 30% total rear stiffness increase [when the bar is coupled in a turn] which changes the real roll couple ratio by roughly half.
For highway tuning the oem springs are not equal to the weight distribution [54% front 46% rear stiffness] usually more like 60/40........then the stiffer [than necessary] front sway bar induces more under steer to be safe in wet conditons.
Changing total [springs plus sway bar] rear stiffness [and the ratio] by 10% can create dramatic differences in at the edge handling.
Why most sets have a stiffer front bar to negate some of the ratio changes.....a stiffer front bar fights against a stiffer rear bar. Most cars need a softer front bar to go with a stiffer rear one to help reduce front tire overload and improve tire turn in. Most cars need stroger front tires as those are the weakest link [determines the understeer ratio as the front tires exceed their load rating at the limit.
Changing the rear weight by 100 pound [full fuel to empty fuel] has dramactic effect when you get closer to neutrality........why racers have variable rear bar stiffness controls.
Same with wet vs. dry handling. What is optimum for dry will be way too much stiffness for wet.
Remember sway bars are just springs [act like springs] in parallel with vehicle body support springs [main springs]. Sway bars are not oscillation controlled by shocks which are just designed to deal with main springs. So ideally sway bars should always be half or less the main spring rate [as translated to the actual wheel rate of the combination].
Many use 10-20% stiffer springs [1" lowering] and a matching 10-20% even 30% stiffer rear bar..........netting say a 30% total rear stiffness increase [when the bar is coupled in a turn] which changes the real roll couple ratio by roughly half.
For highway tuning the oem springs are not equal to the weight distribution [54% front 46% rear stiffness] usually more like 60/40........then the stiffer [than necessary] front sway bar induces more under steer to be safe in wet conditons.
Changing total [springs plus sway bar] rear stiffness [and the ratio] by 10% can create dramatic differences in at the edge handling.
Why most sets have a stiffer front bar to negate some of the ratio changes.....a stiffer front bar fights against a stiffer rear bar. Most cars need a softer front bar to go with a stiffer rear one to help reduce front tire overload and improve tire turn in. Most cars need stroger front tires as those are the weakest link [determines the understeer ratio as the front tires exceed their load rating at the limit.
Originally Posted by Buddha
i would say spending a day at the track. You will learn how to drive faster with stock setup. No mods can't help you make turns faster unless you have the skills to.
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