Neat idea. How will you keep the bolt channel clear of poly material? And I don't think pumping the fluid in there like that is Hondafication lol. I think it's really smart, and if the subframe collars weren't out your idea would become the norm.

Personally I want something reversible. I kind of like the race car noise, but I am not sure how much will be there.

Would be nice to hear which bushings you have... but being you've been in there for the collars its almost guaranteed you went poly whiteline (I'm poly energy bushings).

 

I'm just not going to tape off the bottom of the bolt channel so if I get poly in there it'll just drain out. I'll probably do a quick DIY whenever I get around to it, which is always longer than I originally plan.

 

Agree, trans/DS/diff noise. Was being lazy typing. Yes, have whiteline diff bushings. Also adjustable spc control arms with mono-ball bushings at camber arm and trailing arm.

For your diy bushings, How are you going to make a level surface on the top side of the bushing?

 

Gravity, and if they're not completely level I don't think it'll make much of a difference.

 

Excited to see pics.

 

It'll be in early september when this gets done and probably mid September before I can report back on results. Definitely happening tho as this is now the last thing before I consider my G "completely sorted" dynamics wise.

 

I've never heard of this before and it sounds really interesting. At what bushing locations are you going to do this? My diff bushing recently ejaculated black silicone all over my exhaust and diff cover and I wonder, could this procedure get me out of having to replace the diff bushing(s)?

 

No, you need to replace diff bushing.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KDT911

Don't buy from this link. You can find a lot cheaper.

 

Here we're talking about the subframe bushings.
Filling the rear diff bushing with poly might be harder as the bushing is horizontal and access is limited on one side; the liquid poly will pour out unless you mask it all off perfectly. Alternatively you could use a higher viscosity filler (epoxy, JB weld, etc) which has been done (There's a recent Youtube video for it with successful short term video results, but very little else).

Nobody on this forum has tried either of these things yet - but if you want to try filling the differential bushing please post up pics and report your observations! As long as you clean out the bushing good with degreaser to promote adhesion and do a good job of filling both the top and bottom cavities while the diff is jacked up slightly so it's centered in the blown bushing I see no reason why JB weld or epoxy wouldn't hold as a semi-permanent fix for this application. There's still the two bushings on the front of the diff but those are comparatively easy to replace with polys if they do eventually go bad.

If you use JB weld or epoxy on the rear diff bushing, you'll need to use the Z1 diff bushing removal tool to get it out if you end up deciding to install a poly or solid bushing there in the future as the typical method using a drill and sawzall will be complicated by this.

 

I may do just that. It's a lot of work to replace this bushing. I'd rather put another shift kit in my transmission than f with this thing plus having an awd FX, I don't see much benefit though I do believe I might have problems down the road if I do not effectively shore this damn thing up in some way.
I suppose I'd need to cut away as much of the original bushing as I can, front and back. I'd clean the housing, tape off the font and back and then punch a hole just big enough and at the highest point to slowly inject the jb weld using my little $8 pump that I've used to add diff fluid, power steering fluid, etc. I'd hate to sacrifice that little ****...we've been through so much together.
I'm not so sure adhesion would be a concern though? My thoughts are that so long as the jb weld or epoxy is in a liquid enough state to displace all the air, it should encapsulate everything within the bushings housing and replace all the silicone that was prematurely ejaculated all over my exhaust and with less than 100k miles on the odometer, I'd say that's definitely premature.
What do you think about my thoughts on how to do this and do you have a link to this youtube video? I'm going to look into this further this week for sure and if I do it, I'll do a vid or diy with photo's.

 

It's really not hard to do the diff bushings, just a lot of little things to take off.

Now that I've done it twice I could probably knock a 3rd one out in about 1 hour.

 

 

Discussion is on the subframe, it's expected of you want to fix the wiggle you get these collars.

If you have diff bushings issues, remove the diff and replace the bushings. That YouTube video showed the epoxy method could work, but long term review needs to be done before you could trust its validity.

Plus, once you've already gone through the effort of modifying it you might as well just fix it for good and go poly.

 

Now I can't decide if I want the collars or if I should just fill them with Poly... such a good idea, but irreversible.

 

Yeah, I know we're talking about the sub frame. Anything bushing related ought to be relevant, no?
I don't see why it would be irreversible. Using jb weld might be, certainly more than poly or epoxy. Taking everything apart to replace this silly bushing is a lot of work.