Will the rear end of the G35 coupe need the oem springs even if you have coilover springs on the dampers/coilovers? Do I have to have the lower springs.

The videos show they don't, but that does not seem correct, and there is no info on this network here.

If you could be more specific, it would help to show a picture of how I need to have it done either spring and coilovers, or just all 4 coilovers with no rear springs? Keep the factory springs?

 

There are two type of coilovers for the rear of the G35, one style (typically the less expensive style since you are just replacing the rear spring) uses the existing lower spring bucket and the factory style rear shocks, the factory spring is replaced with an adjustable coil unit.

The other style (typically a more expensive style since you are also buying rear struts) is a TRUE coilover which replaces the factory shock with a strut cartridge and deletes the rear spring, sometimes this style will also delete the factory spring bucket and provide you with an adjustable bar in it's place.

If you want to go really low the true coilover style is your best bet since the factory adjustment on the spring bucket is limited.

 

Sorry, but, I just need my car to stop sagging and swerving and rocking, will these work without the oem springs?

Will this do the whole car with no other springs nothing just this?

Coilovers Struts For 2003-08 Nissan Fairlady Z 350Z Adj Height Suspension Spring

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coilovers-Struts-For-2003-08-Nissan-Fairlady-Z-350Z-Adj-Height-Suspension-Spring/22431461227

 

theres also this, so i think my springs are bad, but rather not have to use them not sure about quality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coilovers-S...r/293951650686

 

What do you mean it deletes the the rear springs? Seems like the true coilovers would still need a spring there.

 

A true coilover has a spring on the rear shock (aka making it a strut). Factory setup there is just a separate shock and separate spring. True coilover replaced the existing shock and spring with a strut assembly.

What makes you think your springs are bad? I have literally never seen factory springs that were actually BAD, however I've seen plenty of cars with blown out shocks/struts that had horrible ride quality.

The first one you listed is a true coilover that will delete the spring, you can see that all four of the items are struts (shock with a spring already on it).

The second on you listed is NOT a true coilover and will replace the factory spring with a ride-height adjustable spring.

The biggest issue with cheap setups is your spring rates are usually INCREDIBLY stiff, that second one that's NOT a true coilover they basically even say in the description "track use but can be driven on the road". The first set the true coilover kit they do list their spring rates which are almost double the stiffness of the factory springs. They are 12k front (675 lbs) and 10k rear (560 lbs)

Typically coilovers have very high spring rates because people will lower their car substantially and they need the high spring rates to keep the car from bottoming out on bumps.

To put it in perspective my previous set of springs and shocks (Nismo S Tune) were 450lbs front 500 lbs rear and that was the stiffest springs I could imagine using as a daily driving. They were VERY stiff, my car saw a lot more track use then so they were great, when I wanted to make my car more daily driver friendly I sold those Nismos and picked up a set of 350Z revised springs (and Bilstein B6 shock/strut) which have rates of 314 lbs front and 427 lbs rear. This is infinitely more comfortable while still handling pretty well.

 

Thanks for information.

A mechanic kept saying I need two springs.

I thought the same thing you said they “springs in rear, don’t go bad.”

Must be the factory shocks aka struts mainly.

So I can save a lot of money by getting new shock/strut replaced and not the separate springs...

To be more specific.

The car rubs, rocks and sags in the back, and a mechanic keeps saying get new springs, which are not sold, or cost $1400, for two rear springs from Infiniti.

Must be the top part, not the springs. What do you think. Thanks

 

Take a tape measure, measure from the ground to the bottom of the wheel arch, measure directly across the centerline of the wheel. This is called your "wheel arch height". Make sure you are on a level paved surface, make sure your tires are properly inflated. If your wheel arch height is correct then you definitely don't need to replace the springs.

Here is a snippet from the factory service manual for coupe/sedan 2006. There wasn't much change across the years but if you post your exact year/chassis I'll post that snippet as well.

 

Sounds like a combination of things actually. Primary issue is most likely blown shocks, if you're anywhere near 100K miles, they're done for. You can get KYB or Tokico front struts & rear shocks for reasonably priced. rockauto.com is a good place to start. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+absorber,7556

Now, some of the "sagging" can be worn out suspension parts as well. All bushings should be inspected - PROPERLY - and replace any control arms that have blown bushings. If you have a lot of sagging, the spring upper seat might be toast. Those things have a direct impact on ride height, shaving them down used to be an easy way to lower the car 1/2". https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...t-p-13650.html

Do yourself a favor and get off ebay. Those coil over setups will fully replace the stock springs and shocks/struts, however the quality of those cheap parts is trash.

 

Not too many favors it's 5 degrees in la, plus I am handicapped with a college degree that I should not have, and was in war and confined in 93 at six years old and no lawyer.....

It's about 28 inches all around, I will try to just start with replacing the inner ties cause they are bad... Get the auto zone kyb struts with or without boot, and some duralast shocks on the front.... I'll figure it out... I never was into racing, just trying to get around safe cause it hurts when you get hit in this car, its not like a common car..

 

Yeah it's probably just blown shocks/struts. The most budget minded option is the KYB Excel-G. I don't think they make the Tokico shocks/struts for this car anymore unfortunately. They were an excellent oem replacement that was coat effective.

 

Thanks.


will this eliminate the drilling and the eccentric screw kit, for the rear? Just wondering to adjust negative camber for the top of the tire pulling in everything else is good.. Not sure if it’s worth it, without real good name brand coilovers and a full makeover... it’s just a bad offset wheel, and the top tires in the back are about 1 1/2 in from the top, since I changed the offset, I had to.
think it will work instead of drilling the frame and buying two pieces to just get the offset and top pulled in, instead of using the toe adjust and lower arm?

Just got the pic off eBay

 

If you are on the stock springs and not lowering the vehicle you will NOT need to widen up the eccentric bolt holes, you can just reuse the existing eccentric bolts.

The higher range eccentric bolts are only needed if you are lowering the car.

You definitely want to stay away from adjustable arms like the ones you just listed that have solid heim joints instead of polyurethane bushings. They are VERY aggressive and usually loud/clunky.

 

Ok,
The rear tires, like the passenger tire is like this - ( rear passenger tire \), the rear driver side is like this - (/ not bad).

So to push em out, just use the existing eccentric bolts like you said since I won't be lowering it?

Do I still need a camber kit to push em , though. To make them flush at the top?

Or you mean just use the existing bolts?

I put my car in the shop a lot, and they claimed to have adjusted as much as possible but.... it's like a bmw chambering in at the top. I think they should have fixed everything and been more specific about how they did it, I had to see it all myself.

thanks

 

The G35 factory specs are about a degree of negative camber.

Which one of these best describes your current setup. Both front and rear.