The ( “negative camber” left photo) for the “passenger rear, and the picture on the right, (“positive camber picture”) for both the rear right and left.

I don’t know what the terminology would be for the both for the rear “left positive and negative in “different terms” for my rear like / \ my rear tires do that.

The two back wheels look like the that picture, and what I described.

The front wheels of the car, is like your diagram photo “middle picture” and is the same as the middle picture.

Again the back is / \ same terms or different they stick in on top. Like the left and right of the diagram.

Terminology neg. or pos.

I don’t know how they can say different terms for both tires in the rear when they do the same thing.

Unless, it’s a left and right pair tire description, there are only three tires on the diagram. The rear is like this looking at the front of the car and the back / \

What to do to pull out the tops from / \ to | | ? Adjust the eccentric factory bolt, cause I don’t want to cut the frame, and the Godspeed are too clunky, so what you think about that?!

You said just just use the factory if not lowering?


Its cool

 

First it’s only three photos but I have two rear tires doing what your left and right thinks or terminology says, which looks the same.

The ( “negative camber” left photo) the “passenger rear, and the picture on the right, (“positive camber picture”) “for both the rear right and left” look like the two outside examples.

I don’t know what the terminology would be for the both for the rear “left positive and negative in “different terms” or what to do besides put factory tires back on. Got me?

The two back wheels look like the that picture, and “what I described.” / \

“The front wheels of the car,” is like your diagram photo for “the middle example” and is the same as that “for the front of my car. Neutral.

Again the back looks like / \

The terms are different, they stick in on top in the rear.

Like the left and right of the diagram example you show.

Terminology negative and positive are the same for the rear picture wise.

I don’t know how they can say different terms for both tires in the rear when they do the same thing.

Unless, it’s a left and right “pair” “tire” description, there are only three tires on the diagram, example.

The rear is like this | | neutral in your diagram, looking at the front of “my” car and the back / \ two whole different words.

What to do to pull out the tops from / \ to | | ? Or pull the back of “my car” to neutral? That is what I want to know without cutting my frame????


You said Adjust the eccentric factory bolt, cause I don’t want to cut the frame, and the Godspeed rear upper are too clunky, so what you think about that???

You said just just use the factory if not lowering?

To make the rear neutral? Do what?


Its cool

 

Those pictures are all just the left side tire, you would mirror it for the right side of the car, so it sounds like you have negative camber. This typically only happens on vehicles that have been lowered, this is probably what your rear tires are doing.



I recommend you take the car to an alignment shop that does this kind of work for a living and have them try to align the vehicle. If they cannot then they will tell you exactly which components are preventing them from getting the car dialed in.

Factory spec for rear camber is -1 degree negative, the shop you're taking the car to might not know this and there might not be anything wrong with your camber.

This is a sports car, they run negative camber, if they're trying to get you to zero camber they're doing it wrong, find a different shop for your suspension work that knows what they're doing.

If your have a LOT of negative camber that's different. Take a picture of your car from behind, stand about 10' behind the car, get down low so you're looking down the side of the car and can get a good relation of the angle of the tire to the rest of the chassis. Also take a picture from behind the car, same distance, but standing in the middle. You want your camera to be basically sitting on the ground for these shots.

Try to mimic these two pictures, these cars are both lowered and running a LOT of negative camber so yours shouldn't be this extreme, I just want you to have an idea of the exact photos I want you to take. For the side shot do both sides of the car.

 

It's negative camber then... Thanks for the information.

Like I said, this was due to the wrong offset, bad shock aka/struts when they sold the car to me now it is over 100,000 miles, no real tune up, and the car was sold out of specifications at 60,000 miles after I needed a car to try to continue my business, and I did not know it was NOT like the is300, their suspension is way easier based on what I know now.

The shops give me all kinds of excuses for money or to make money for whatever reason because it does me no good, plus with economy, this day and age, or whatever they do.

I bought four sets of wheels because the first set was discontinued after the offset was done right, but was not informed and only informed, that "my car is out of spec or your car is out of spec from things after being sold on it," yes things, both in businesses and out of business, because of this, and took the car to two other shops. They act like they are specialists and pretend to go along with everything.

It really is is serious cause this can be fatal if you do not get it done right. A lot of people including myself, wonder how I make it like this.

All that I needed to hear from their shops, was that "your shocks are struts and your springs are separate on this car, and you have been set up with the wrong wheels and advice, and can't get a lawyer, we can do it or can not, or should refund you, but for some reason and we ripped you off because we know and they who did this knows, we can get away with it both on ebay or in our shops." Sad huh?? Like I said it's cool.

They refused to hear me, so I finally took my time and figured it myself, as usual too late, and no reports and hit and runs, from illegal immigrants while getting my college degree and all.

Now they act like nothing happened and give me the block, "uh i don't know where or how you do it after all this "s**t, why you don't do it yourself," and nobody saying nothing b******t..."

Like I said, my house was taken when I was a child for no reason, then I was confined then almost killed in war, during in desert storm, and 911 or anyone, did not respond, no police reports, then couldn't walk and still have problems from their "regulations."

Doctors tried to save part of my body but still lied I guess they can't face it, but the part about using me, and pretend they can not is all over, everywhere, it is hard to believe, I know, and I know how Soldiers feel and people about trying to go through it, that is why everything is not the same. No meets, nothing, underground blah blah you know.

People do not care, and still till this day, they all act like I am supposed to be able to figure this out, or it is my fault, or not theirs because I was told "civil rights" said their was possible litigation behind this, before, then my is3 was totally gone hit from the back over 60mph at a stop sign with an illegal immigrant, where no one knows he came from, with "get her done,'' on the back of the heavy duty dodge??? With the hit and runs, and had finally made it. I actually almost pulled it all off and got this car done, but I was back stabbed, all of this and that for excuses "possibly," sounds funny, but finally the govt after 35 years gave me 500 dollars to live and be excused after nothing I did wrong for a trial in court, after, when I was supposed to have the pardon, the whole time, since then, still going. Crazy i know....

These shops and all, see me coming, they know, and been through it all but not like this, therefore. they use that against me, the money, the war, the crimes, or whatever, and barely got through all of this since then, but tried to save or service, and failed to report it. Someone had to give them the idea right?? Not me..

No real need to picture the car but after all it is, unsafe and I am waiting on the kyb struts and to see if I can still drive this thing with supposedly top notch handling.... All I been through, I hate to get rid of it, but after knowing all of this, but since then that is all I can do is try.

Hopefully this car is like a tank, it looks okay but it's like getting hit by a bus, if it were this car and not the is300 I would not be typing. Just a tap, and this feels like solid steel hits itself, but the problem if it is no armor, sounds childish, but talking war life and death and this, it's serious and should be respected and addressed, and I appreciate your assistance, with all my heart, after all this is what this forum was for.

Like I said the shock on the driver side is blown out, you can see the difference not much, but I can feel the strut with my hand, it is totally compressed to nothing.

They wont tell me that, even Good Year said they can't do anything with a mack truck sitting outside, it and refused to look at it.

Here's the pictures it's not bad, but I hope it drives as well as it looks if you think, cause the car slides all over when a slight bump is hit or curve.












Driver rear1

passenger rear1,

driver rear 2 explained. it is slightly off, but major drive problems.

just another angle passenger rear2

 

Hopefully kyb will save the day, and some new inner tie rods on the front, from horrible handling.. other wise it’s a courtroom and no me or me and no court and me. =\

 

I just thought this was a car for safety, but my is300, did that out of ease, this, it's made for rip and jip unless you got protection for new parts or to have bought it new. Now the q70 2dr looks good.

The 10% of the world who actually is in the fitness industry, tries to support troops, and life and health, but they don't even do it, nobody hashtags fitness and safe health.

 

Does anybody else feel like we're talking to a bot? This has gone way off topic and back again I'm not sure what's going on. Childhood, something about the fitness industry, litigation over ugly wheels, this thread has it all.

I'm trying to figure out why you think there's something wrong with your car here. It's obvious you have no idea what you're talking about, which in general is totally fine and what this forum is all about. But you're running down odd rabbit holes based on partial assumptions that every shop is out to rip you off. For now, don't buy any parts for your car. Litterally every single part you've posted a picture of is the lowest quality piece in existence that is realistically going to just cause you more problems. Stay off eBay. Stick with rockauto, Z1 Motorsports, or CZP. I'm also not sure why you would assume the suspension would be identical between a late 90s Lexus and an early 00s Infiniti either, but moving on.

These cars have negative camber in the rear from the factory. Nothing looks wrong with your car honestly, at least related to camber. If you want/need to adjust the rear camber, the arms and toe bolts from SPC are all you need: https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...rm-p-4636.html Yes, you will need the toe bolts for additional adjustment range needed when modifying the camber. I've had them on my car for 8 years and over 200k miles now. My car has 295k miles on it, so I'm pretty familiar with what wears out considering I've had to replace almost all of the suspension by now.

Can you post a side profile pic of your car? What tires do you have? In sorting out all the hyperbole, it sounds like your car just isn't handling right and feels like it "wanders" over bumps in the road. Most commonly, this is either worn shocks, bad tires, or a combination of both. I can see you have aftermarket wheels, they look like heavy chrome ones. Those combined with (probably) worn shocks and (I'm making an educated guess here) really cheap tires are why your car isn't handing very well. The wheels also have high offsets, which is why they appear to be "sunk" in at the top in the rear. Adjusting camber isn't going to help you much with "pulling the tops out." Normally I'd suggest wheel spacers, but in this case you're really going to be better off with finding a nice set of factory G35 wheels locally.

Edit: the white wall and yellow stripe points to those being Vogue tires. Pretty obscure brand for sure, but appears to be a hard compound China-made tire. 2 dogecoins says that's your biggest problem with handling.

 

rock auto is joke ebay a joke your whole industry is a joke i hate to tell you this but have fun finding your real life.

I used to goto lightning motorsports in baton rouge la, where now your pandemic is, and do not really care what you think, also, hate racing, but do know a lot of people who have race cars and would and could and do not care about it either, i got enough of what i was trying to figure out....

i could post a song too if you want. it's not direct enough for me to say anything else.

don't get mad, it is all real my guy, closed thread will happen soon..

 

No I'm not going to close the thread even though it's a little derailed.

Rockauto is a legitimate vendor though, they offer a LOT of brands however and you will get what you pay for. I've used them for years and have no complaints.

 

Are your Bilstein B6's still working well with your 350z revised springs?

The 350z revised springs with the spring mount mod (cut perches) on my '06 coupe have blown my rear Koni shocks. Koni's claims they're intended for lowered cars, but considering it's the same part # for all model years of the G35 (that have different spring rates) I find this hard to believe. Not sure what to do because I like these springs and ride height

 

They probably just have longer travel so they'll work with a wider variety of cars, and yeah the B6 are still running strong with those 350Z revised springs. Feels great and I have no reason to change it for now. I don't think I mentioned it but I did cut down the rear spring top rubber perch about 3/8" to match the wheel well gap to the front a little better so "technically" the car is lowered but I have never had an issue with those Bilsteins.

Check with Koni about a warranty replacement on your shocks though, they do an exchange program and will usually give you a heck of a deal on a new set of shocks. You RMA send your existing ones back in and they send you a rebuilt set that meets factory spec. Sometimes they mail them as soon as your RMA tracking number hits their computer so you're only looking at like a 5-7 day shipping time rather than waiting for them to receive the shocks then process and send out another pair. Koni has some excellent customer service.

If you're not the original purchaser of the shocks you will have a slightly longer lead time because they WILL require receipt of the shocks before they send out a replacement set though.