Help with alignment specs - help Kenchan! :)
#1
10-27-2005, 10:28 AM
Help with alignment specs - help Kenchan! :)
Kenchan:
I have the OEM 19's, however, I am switching over to a 17 inch winter rim that are 17/55 rear and 17/50 front. Do I need to change my alignment when switching over to the smaller rim size? Oh and I am on the Eibach prokit as well.
If you can (because I trust your number to bring into my alignment guy hehe) could you put what you think is the optimal settings, within OEM spec, that would acheive a balance between performance and minimal premature tire wear. By the way I do alot of highway driving if that matters. Sorry for the noob questions.
Front
Camber
?
Caster
?
Total Toe In
?
Rear
Camber
?
Total Toe In
?
Thank you for all your advice in advance!
I have the OEM 19's, however, I am switching over to a 17 inch winter rim that are 17/55 rear and 17/50 front. Do I need to change my alignment when switching over to the smaller rim size? Oh and I am on the Eibach prokit as well.
If you can (because I trust your number to bring into my alignment guy hehe) could you put what you think is the optimal settings, within OEM spec, that would acheive a balance between performance and minimal premature tire wear. By the way I do alot of highway driving if that matters. Sorry for the noob questions.
Front
Camber
?
Caster
?
Total Toe In
?
Rear
Camber
?
Total Toe In
?
Thank you for all your advice in advance!
#2
10-27-2005, 02:11 PM
You don't need to get an alignment just for swapping wheels, but if you haven't gotten an alignment after the prokit install here's some numbers you might want to hand over to the tech:
FRONT
camber: non adjustable (you'll see -1.9 to -2.2 range on Prokits)
caster : non adjustable (you'll see 8+ range)
Total toe: tell tech to set at 0.10
REAR (if you have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target -1.2
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
REAR (if you don't have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target most positive allowed
and match other side.
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
Unless you sit in the car while the car is adjusted, the car will sit about 0.3" higher than its usual height while the tech works on adjustments. Getting alignment done on these lowering springs is pretty tricky as you need
to compensate how much lower the car would sit after it re-settles.
If you have H-techs/S-techs its even worse... car would sit like 1" higher
while the tech works on your car unless your springs are completely settled.
this results in toe-out and massive negative camber conditions on the rear
after your car re-settles.
been there, done that, fixed it and learned...
FRONT
camber: non adjustable (you'll see -1.9 to -2.2 range on Prokits)
caster : non adjustable (you'll see 8+ range)
Total toe: tell tech to set at 0.10
REAR (if you have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target -1.2
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
REAR (if you don't have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target most positive allowed
and match other side.
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
Unless you sit in the car while the car is adjusted, the car will sit about 0.3" higher than its usual height while the tech works on adjustments. Getting alignment done on these lowering springs is pretty tricky as you need
to compensate how much lower the car would sit after it re-settles.
If you have H-techs/S-techs its even worse... car would sit like 1" higher
while the tech works on your car unless your springs are completely settled.
this results in toe-out and massive negative camber conditions on the rear
after your car re-settles.
been there, done that, fixed it and learned...
#3
10-27-2005, 03:16 PM
Originally Posted by kenchan
You don't need to get an alignment just for swapping wheels, but if you haven't gotten an alignment after the prokit install here's some numbers you might want to hand over to the tech:
FRONT
camber: non adjustable (you'll see -1.9 to -2.2 range on Prokits)
caster : non adjustable (you'll see 8+ range)
Total toe: tell tech to set at 0.10
REAR (if you have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target -1.2
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
REAR (if you don't have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target most positive allowed
and match other side.
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
Unless you sit in the car while the car is adjusted, the car will sit about 0.3" higher than its usual height while the tech works on adjustments. Getting alignment done on these lowering springs is pretty tricky as you need
to compensate how much lower the car would sit after it re-settles.
If you have H-techs/S-techs its even worse... car would sit like 1" higher
while the tech works on your car unless your springs are completely settled.
this results in toe-out and massive negative camber conditions on the rear
after your car re-settles.
been there, done that, fixed it and learned...
FRONT
camber: non adjustable (you'll see -1.9 to -2.2 range on Prokits)
caster : non adjustable (you'll see 8+ range)
Total toe: tell tech to set at 0.10
REAR (if you have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target -1.2
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
REAR (if you don't have camber rods)
camber: tell the tech to target most positive allowed
and match other side.
total toe: tell the tech to target 0.32
Unless you sit in the car while the car is adjusted, the car will sit about 0.3" higher than its usual height while the tech works on adjustments. Getting alignment done on these lowering springs is pretty tricky as you need
to compensate how much lower the car would sit after it re-settles.
If you have H-techs/S-techs its even worse... car would sit like 1" higher
while the tech works on your car unless your springs are completely settled.
this results in toe-out and massive negative camber conditions on the rear
after your car re-settles.
been there, done that, fixed it and learned...
Again sorry for the hassle.
#4
10-27-2005, 04:21 PM
oh, in that case if you want a factory-like ride, then have them set it to the factory specs.
if you want to play around with the setting, take it to factory specs, drive around with it for a while and then fine tune (dial-in) the alignment to your
preference. ie, you want more turnability, increase front camber, lessen rear camber. or vise versa. increase straightline stability, increase toe-in ,etc.
if you want to play around with the setting, take it to factory specs, drive around with it for a while and then fine tune (dial-in) the alignment to your
preference. ie, you want more turnability, increase front camber, lessen rear camber. or vise versa. increase straightline stability, increase toe-in ,etc.
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