I've ordered a set of shocks for my coupe and I'm curious about the access to adjustments for both front and rear. Anyone?

 

With the Dspecs you can access the adjustment **** for the fronts via the engine bay on the shock towers. Easy. The rears are a different story. You'll actually have to unbolt the top two nuts of the rear shocks to drop them down to adjust the ****. Pain in the butt. For the sedan guys with the rear reclining seats, there's a way to access the rear ***** from the inside of the car.

 

Thanks for the reply dklau33.

I had a look at the rears before posting and I figured it was going to be a big job. Guess I better get the settings right the first time.

 

Or, you might like to install cable-adjusters from Tokico on the rear.

 

Dovla, that's a big 10-4 on getting the rear cable adjusters. I found out about them from an earlier post you made. Thanks.
To have adjustable shocks and have to go through a major hassle to adjust them doesn't make sense to me. I had no idea something like that would be available.

Did you get them from Tokico direct or from another supplier? How difficult was the hole enlargening and routing the cables to the rear deck tether mounts? I won't have mine installed until late march so have lots of time to get them in any case.

 

adjusting the rear is not that big of a deal. i think drilling a hole
through the chassis is a lot more work than just pulling down the
shock and adjusting it...

 

Rbull, yes call Tokico they are selling them for ~$30 a par. They are ~4” long. You will need good ½” drill bit that is 6-7”+ long to open up ¼” hole that is already there. Drilling was hard because of reinforced steel.

You might want to remove rear parcel shelf first (very time consuming), or just try lifting it a little so that you don’t damage the shelf. Good thing is that there is some (sound?) ½” insulation between steel and plastic shelf. Rear deck tether mounts are ~1” from the hole toward rear of the car.


Good luck.

I don’t know what 10-4 is.

 

Thanks for the feedback kenchan.

Of course I haven't done either so it's good to hear another option.

Drilling the hole larger probably isn't easy. It does seem to me however to be a one time exercise versus dropping the shocks for any desired subsquent adjustments. I also don't have easy access to a place to drop the shocks without going to a service bay.

Although if I follow your expert advice and specs maybe I'll only have to do it at install time anyways.

 

Thanks Dovla. I appreciate the instructions and pics.

10-4 is just old CB radio truckers talk for OK or Yes.
(showing my age I guess.

 

Rbull- I know what 10-4 means. hahaha. (no im still pretty young).

depending on the springs you use, i think if you set it at 3.5-4 range
(turns from full hard) front and rear you should be fine. the dampers
are pretty stiff the first few weeks of driving. there is a break-in on
dampers too which takes a good 500 miles or so to rid the airbubbles
from shipping.

my car felt stiff when the d-specs were new, but latetly ..... so nice.

over and out.

 

I have my D-specs at 4 turns out from full hard. I agree with Kenchan about drilling holes in the car. I think it's less work to just jack up the car and pull the shock down. It's not like you're going to need to adjust that often.

Mine were at full hard first then I tried full soft just see if there was a difference and there WAS! I adjusted all of them to 4 turns out from full hard to break them in. Now it feels perfect so I just left them like that. Great when cornering, comfortable for a lowered car during daily driving.

 

Good to hear you're familiar with 10-4. When Dovla said he wasn't up on that I was suprised but glad it's not an age thing.

Thanks for the advice and the insight into the initial miles stiffness. I'm sure there is more than a few people that are suprised in those early miles. I take it the air bubbles are in regards to air shipping.

I'm hearing lots of good things about these shocks and can't wait to try them out.

From the description you guys give and the pics from Dovla you guys may very well be right. I've got a bit of time to decide what to do. Thanks for the feedback disco monkey.

 

would this be for the dsp7 or dsp9? is it the same for both? i'm having my dsp9 installed on wed so i wanna make sure they get set up right?

 

The answer is: yes.

Both the DSP7 and DSP9 are valved the same. The 350z version (can't remember if DSP7 or DSP9) DSpecs have slightly shorter shafts since the steady-state ride height is slighly shorter (~1/2") on the 350z.