StopTechs so expensive!
Originally Posted by vleo8181
you probably dont want to know how much ENDLESS brakes cost then...
So I could go search this, but it is much easier to continue the discussion here. What pads would you recommend for everyday driving for our cars. Also rotors.
As much as I would like to get the brakes for the look, I am not going to cross my car (I don't think) and safer street braking would do me just fine. Also, less dust the better. I know dust is a bi-product of better braking, but when I get wheels, I want them to stay nice and shinny
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Joined: Feb 2005
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www.350zbrakes.com
6 piston wilwood sl6
13.6" x 1.25" vented slotted 2 piece rotor
pads lines
$1850
they have a rear that uses same rotors (good cause you can rotate them), 4 piston wilwood, e-brake retained, 1850 as well
even less: arizona Z-car (www.arizonazcar.com)
wilwood 6 piston as well, and they have a 4 piston rear, no e-brake though. about 2500 for all 4 wheels
6 piston wilwood sl6
13.6" x 1.25" vented slotted 2 piece rotor
pads lines
$1850
they have a rear that uses same rotors (good cause you can rotate them), 4 piston wilwood, e-brake retained, 1850 as well
even less: arizona Z-car (www.arizonazcar.com)
wilwood 6 piston as well, and they have a 4 piston rear, no e-brake though. about 2500 for all 4 wheels
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20
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Originally Posted by Driver Elite
I'ma guess around $3.5-4k for just the fronts?
So I could go search this, but it is much easier to continue the discussion here. What pads would you recommend for everyday driving for our cars. Also rotors.
As much as I would like to get the brakes for the look, I am not going to cross my car (I don't think) and safer street braking would do me just fine. Also, less dust the better. I know dust is a bi-product of better braking, but when I get wheels, I want them to stay nice and shinny
So I could go search this, but it is much easier to continue the discussion here. What pads would you recommend for everyday driving for our cars. Also rotors.
As much as I would like to get the brakes for the look, I am not going to cross my car (I don't think) and safer street braking would do me just fine. Also, less dust the better. I know dust is a bi-product of better braking, but when I get wheels, I want them to stay nice and shinny
For everyday driving, you want stock rotors. Maybe slotted, but for the rear, the rear dust shield keeps the rotor from having any effective cooling really. Drilled rotors will kill 10-15% of the rotor's surface area. Aftermarket slotted rotors should probably be lighter though.
Pads, you want something nice and aggresive if you are trying to increase braking performance. Something like a hawk hps or hp+, or nismo s-tune will just increase pad life, and decrease dust. Your braking power will actually decrease.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
Actually the rotor weight is the critical parameter.
Make sure drilled or slotted weight at least as much as oem.
PowerStop on the Q45 compensated for drilled weight loss by specing a denser heavier grade of cast iron.....they actually weighed a few grams more.
Relatively easy to measure rotor temp rise vs speed of stop and just assume that a 10% heavier rotor will only get 90% as hot [the actual temp rise over ambient. The heat propogates fast from pad interface to all parts of rotor.
Cheaply designed aftermarket [not necessarily cheaply priced] cheat by reducing the metal weight with a wider center air space.
Important to measure the solid metal outer edges for thickness..........9mm vs 9.5 vs 8.5mm..........xray the rotor or cut one open to count the number and thickness of the support vanes.
Weighing is usually easier and 90% of time tells the truth about aftermarket quality.
Make sure drilled or slotted weight at least as much as oem.
PowerStop on the Q45 compensated for drilled weight loss by specing a denser heavier grade of cast iron.....they actually weighed a few grams more.
Relatively easy to measure rotor temp rise vs speed of stop and just assume that a 10% heavier rotor will only get 90% as hot [the actual temp rise over ambient. The heat propogates fast from pad interface to all parts of rotor.
Cheaply designed aftermarket [not necessarily cheaply priced] cheat by reducing the metal weight with a wider center air space.
Important to measure the solid metal outer edges for thickness..........9mm vs 9.5 vs 8.5mm..........xray the rotor or cut one open to count the number and thickness of the support vanes.
Weighing is usually easier and 90% of time tells the truth about aftermarket quality.
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