All you smart brake knowers doers etc. come here and help me!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,256
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From: heart of 626 bad drivers
All you smart brake knowers doers etc. come here and help me!
Alright guys, I changed my brakes like 2-3 months ago, w/ resurfacing rotors, and I just got it flushed too. (that happened about 2 weeks ago). So After doing so, i thought my brake pedal would stiffen up just a bit, but actually it didn't. It really bothers me, my brake pedal is so soft you literally have to step it so close to the ground for my car to stop. But i noticed if i step on the pedal, then release and step on it again, it's stiffer than the previous time, and if i do that more as i continue to brake, it gets stiffer and stiffer. But then I drive off, and then i have to stop again, same situation all over again. So any suggestion guys?
and i was planning on upgrading my rotors to slotted stoptechs, so i went browsing and bumped into this.
http://intensepower.com/stbrmacyst35.html
could that be it?
and i was planning on upgrading my rotors to slotted stoptechs, so i went browsing and bumped into this.
http://intensepower.com/stbrmacyst35.html
could that be it?
you have are in your brake lines
i had this same problem when i changed mine
you need to re bleed your brakes
it might take you a couple of times to get all the air out
start at the rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger, and finally front driver.
i had this same problem when i changed mine
you need to re bleed your brakes
it might take you a couple of times to get all the air out
start at the rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger, and finally front driver.
+1 sounds like your brake lines.
take it back to where you did your install. IF you did it yourself, I would check all the lines.
Second, I would'nt change out the rotors, slotted or drilled, not that great, IMO.
I would allways have a professional install my brakes.
Good luck and drive safetly
take it back to where you did your install. IF you did it yourself, I would check all the lines.
Second, I would'nt change out the rotors, slotted or drilled, not that great, IMO.
I would allways have a professional install my brakes.
Good luck and drive safetly
Im having a similar problem, but i think its related to a rear brake problem
My parking brake is ineffective. I can mash it to the floor, it doesnt slow the vehicle. But, if I'm stoped, and I pump my normal brake a few times, then step on the parking brake, it holds the vehiele. Inspecting the rotors, they are very dirty. Waterspots, etc. Looks like they're not being used at all. Ive noticed braking sucks lately, today on dry pavement i had the pedal to the floor, i was stopping very quickly, but it should have induced an ABS situation, which it did not. Clearly there isnt enough braking power to get my car to skid to thereby activate ABS.
Im thinking I have warped rear discs, anyone?
My parking brake is ineffective. I can mash it to the floor, it doesnt slow the vehicle. But, if I'm stoped, and I pump my normal brake a few times, then step on the parking brake, it holds the vehiele. Inspecting the rotors, they are very dirty. Waterspots, etc. Looks like they're not being used at all. Ive noticed braking sucks lately, today on dry pavement i had the pedal to the floor, i was stopping very quickly, but it should have induced an ABS situation, which it did not. Clearly there isnt enough braking power to get my car to skid to thereby activate ABS.
Im thinking I have warped rear discs, anyone?
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Originally Posted by G35 Mass
Im having a similar problem, but i think its related to a rear brake problem
My parking brake is ineffective. I can mash it to the floor, it doesnt slow the vehicle. But, if I'm stoped, and I pump my normal brake a few times, then step on the parking brake, it holds the vehiele. Inspecting the rotors, they are very dirty. Waterspots, etc. Looks like they're not being used at all. Ive noticed braking sucks lately, today on dry pavement i had the pedal to the floor, i was stopping very quickly, but it should have induced an ABS situation, which it did not. Clearly there isnt enough braking power to get my car to skid to thereby activate ABS.
Im thinking I have warped rear discs, anyone?
My parking brake is ineffective. I can mash it to the floor, it doesnt slow the vehicle. But, if I'm stoped, and I pump my normal brake a few times, then step on the parking brake, it holds the vehiele. Inspecting the rotors, they are very dirty. Waterspots, etc. Looks like they're not being used at all. Ive noticed braking sucks lately, today on dry pavement i had the pedal to the floor, i was stopping very quickly, but it should have induced an ABS situation, which it did not. Clearly there isnt enough braking power to get my car to skid to thereby activate ABS.
Im thinking I have warped rear discs, anyone?
With warped rotors, generally you'll feel a vibration through the brake pedal during braking. You could have air in your brake lines as well -- checking the pads and bleeding the lines would probably be my first step.
Originally Posted by Sandman
First of all, your parking brake system is completely separate from your regular brakes. When you pull the e-brake handle (6MT) or step on the pedal (5AT) it pulls a cable which presses a brake shoe against a drum inside the rear wheels. It's not designed to stop a moving vehicle, just hold in place one when it is already stopped (although you should feel it doing something while moving). In some cars, the parking brake is strong enough to lock up the rear wheels, but you have very little control. And since it's not connected to the hydraulic system which drives your regular brake calipers, I can't think of a reason why pumping the regular brake pedal would help your parking brake work better.
With warped rotors, generally you'll feel a vibration through the brake pedal during braking. You could have air in your brake lines as well -- checking the pads and bleeding the lines would probably be my first step.
With warped rotors, generally you'll feel a vibration through the brake pedal during braking. You could have air in your brake lines as well -- checking the pads and bleeding the lines would probably be my first step.
your e brake has nothing to do with your regular brakes.
it you have mashed your e brake to the floor while driving a bunch of times you might have wore the pads off.
bleed your brakes and see how it goes
Im telling you, pumping the brakes does it. Heres the deal. My friend lives on a nasty incline. If i just pull up, and step on the pedal, it goes right to the floor, no resistance, and as soon as i take my foot off the regular brake, the car rolls to the parking pawls in the tranny.
If i stop on the hill in a gear, the engine holds the veicle. pump a few times, set the parking brake, then put it into park, the vehicle stays there. If i release the parking brake, it rolls foward into the locking of the tranny.
Anyways, we;ll see what they say tomorow, thanks
If i stop on the hill in a gear, the engine holds the veicle. pump a few times, set the parking brake, then put it into park, the vehicle stays there. If i release the parking brake, it rolls foward into the locking of the tranny.
Anyways, we;ll see what they say tomorow, thanks
Im telling you, pumping the brakes does it
If i just pull up, and step on the pedal,
If i stop on the hill in a gear, the engine holds the veicle.
pump a few times, set the parking brake, then put it into park, the vehicle stays there
come to a complete stop, then push in the parking brake.
If i release the parking brake, it rolls foward into the locking of the tranny
Originally Posted by SFLG35
pumping your brakes just makes the pads stay on the rotors your e brake and regular brakes are two different systems. they are connected in no way!!!!
you shouldnt do that. you are goin to wear your e brake pads out if you havent already
the transmission holds the car not the engine.
try setting the parking brakes when the car is stopped not when it is moving
come to a complete stop, then push in the parking brake.
thats normal because nothing is holding it and the tranny hasnt locked up yet.
you shouldnt do that. you are goin to wear your e brake pads out if you havent already
the transmission holds the car not the engine.
try setting the parking brakes when the car is stopped not when it is moving
come to a complete stop, then push in the parking brake.
thats normal because nothing is holding it and the tranny hasnt locked up yet.
I'll try again
When doesnt it work: When its applied on its own
When does it work: when its applied after a little pumpin without letting the vehicle roll at all (via engine power overcoming gravity)....
How do i test:
Test one. Pull up to hill. Keep it in drive with the engine on. The engine trying to go UP and gravity pushing me DOWN ballance out, and the car stays where it is. At this point I can pump the brake, and get a more solid feeling back to the pedal. Now I can actuate the parking brake, and there is resistance. Now I step back on the regular brake, put the car in park, and remove my foot from the brake.
Result: The car does not move.
Test two. Pull up to hill. Depress and hols brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Park. Release brake. Vehicle rolls backward until the parking pawls engage.
Result" The car moves.
Originally Posted by G35 Mass
How do i test:
Test one. Pull up to hill. Keep it in drive with the engine on. The engine trying to go UP and gravity pushing me DOWN ballance out, and the car stays where it is. At this point I can pump the brake, and get a more solid feeling back to the pedal. Now I can actuate the parking brake, and there is resistance. Now I step back on the regular brake, put the car in park, and remove my foot from the brake.
Result: The car does not move.
Test two. Pull up to hill. Depress and hols brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Park. Release brake. Vehicle rolls backward until the parking pawls engage.
Result" The car moves.
Test one. Pull up to hill. Keep it in drive with the engine on. The engine trying to go UP and gravity pushing me DOWN ballance out, and the car stays where it is. At this point I can pump the brake, and get a more solid feeling back to the pedal. Now I can actuate the parking brake, and there is resistance. Now I step back on the regular brake, put the car in park, and remove my foot from the brake.
Result: The car does not move.
Test two. Pull up to hill. Depress and hols brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Park. Release brake. Vehicle rolls backward until the parking pawls engage.
Result" The car moves.
. I'd take it to the dealer and demonstrate to them the two tests you just described. Maybe the parking brake cables need tightening?I'm curious, though -- what happens if you do this (similar to test two): Pull up to hill. Depress and hold brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Neutral. Release brake...
Does the car roll back freely, even with the parking brake all the way to the floor? Scary if it does
.driftGT350: Sorry about contributing to the thread 'jack -- just trying to help. FWIW, your problem does sound like air in the lines. Also, upgrading to stainless steel braided brake lines can help give a stiffer pedal feel (but not if there's air in them
).
[QUOTE=Sandman]
I'm curious, though -- what happens if you do this (similar to test two): Pull up to hill. Depress and hold brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Neutral. Release brake...
Does the car roll back freely, even with the parking brake all the way to the floor? Scary if it does
.
QUOTE]
Yes, it will roll. It needs a few extra pumps.
Judging by the staining of the rear rotors, diminished braking capacity, and the pumping restoring the pedal, Im starting to believe that there is a SEVER warp in the disc. As the disk's "high" points come in contact with the pads, it retracts them and the piston. When stoped, pumping allows them to return back to their normal place, resting ever slightly against the disk. I think. That is EXACTLY what happened on my motorcycle's disks. But, since I only had one set (fronts), I had NO braking power. I could squeezee the lever till my knuckles were blue and pump them while moving, nothing. When i came to a stop, a couple pumps (like you do when you install new pads or reattach the caliper) would bring the pads back in contact with the disk and restore the braking capacity, until I moved. Just one revolution of the wheel was all it took to drive the piston/pads back out and i'de loose brake power.... ok enough with hyjacking threads, its giong in to the dealer in about 5 hours
I'm curious, though -- what happens if you do this (similar to test two): Pull up to hill. Depress and hold brake. Depress parking brake. It goes right to the floor. Move shifter to Neutral. Release brake...
Does the car roll back freely, even with the parking brake all the way to the floor? Scary if it does
.QUOTE]
Yes, it will roll. It needs a few extra pumps.
Judging by the staining of the rear rotors, diminished braking capacity, and the pumping restoring the pedal, Im starting to believe that there is a SEVER warp in the disc. As the disk's "high" points come in contact with the pads, it retracts them and the piston. When stoped, pumping allows them to return back to their normal place, resting ever slightly against the disk. I think. That is EXACTLY what happened on my motorcycle's disks. But, since I only had one set (fronts), I had NO braking power. I could squeezee the lever till my knuckles were blue and pump them while moving, nothing. When i came to a stop, a couple pumps (like you do when you install new pads or reattach the caliper) would bring the pads back in contact with the disk and restore the braking capacity, until I moved. Just one revolution of the wheel was all it took to drive the piston/pads back out and i'de loose brake power.... ok enough with hyjacking threads, its giong in to the dealer in about 5 hours


