05 X Alignment results after drop on OEM Z Springs
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: was: Long Island, NY -- Now: South FL
05 X Alignment results after drop on OEM Z Springs
Just got my alignment done on my 05' G35x lowered on OEM Z Revised springs and on 245/45/18's ... Here are the results:
Left Front
Camber Before: -1.93
Camber After: -2.01
Caster Before: 7.42
Caster After: 7.42
Toe Before: -.13
Toe After: .05
Right Front
Camber Before: -1.04
Camber After: -1.00
Caster Before: 7.05
Caster After: 7.05
Toe Before: - .06
Toe After: .05
____________________________
Left Rear
Camber Before: -2.92
Camber After: -2.95
Toe Before: .53
Toe After: .07
Right Rear
Camber Before: -1.89
Camber After: -2.48
Toe Before: .17
Toe After: .08
This is the closest he said he can get to spec.
Toe and Caster are in spec, but, Camber is pretty off.
What do you guys think ??
Left Front
Camber Before: -1.93
Camber After: -2.01
Caster Before: 7.42
Caster After: 7.42
Toe Before: -.13
Toe After: .05
Right Front
Camber Before: -1.04
Camber After: -1.00
Caster Before: 7.05
Caster After: 7.05
Toe Before: - .06
Toe After: .05
____________________________
Left Rear
Camber Before: -2.92
Camber After: -2.95
Toe Before: .53
Toe After: .07
Right Rear
Camber Before: -1.89
Camber After: -2.48
Toe Before: .17
Toe After: .08
This is the closest he said he can get to spec.
Toe and Caster are in spec, but, Camber is pretty off.
What do you guys think ??
there is sth terribly wrong with your left front Camber.. (same for the rear)
You should check to see if your control arm or sth is bent there..
coz it is a full degree more negative than your right side.
Moreover, with the Z springs, you should get around -1 to -1.5
camber not sth like -2 camber
I would say either your springs are screwed up or your suspension
is screwed up...there is no way that there is such a big difference
between left and right
You should check to see if your control arm or sth is bent there..
coz it is a full degree more negative than your right side.
Moreover, with the Z springs, you should get around -1 to -1.5
camber not sth like -2 camber
I would say either your springs are screwed up or your suspension
is screwed up...there is no way that there is such a big difference
between left and right
It's not uncommon to see front camber differences of .4 side to side in the front. But I've never ever seen a 1 degree spread in the front. IMO, that's the telltale that something is very wrong. IMO the shop tech did not attach the equipment to the wheels correctly or something to that effect. If you go back and they try to spin a story about how that's the way things go when you lower a car, ignor it your resluts are way to out of spec to be about that sort of thing.
Do you know where the rear toe and camber adjustment bolts are? I'd like to know where they are set too. Theirs a washer on the bolts that has a dot stamped into it, where that dot is on the clock for each bolt would be interesting to know.
Do you know where the rear toe and camber adjustment bolts are? I'd like to know where they are set too. Theirs a washer on the bolts that has a dot stamped into it, where that dot is on the clock for each bolt would be interesting to know.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
A camber difference of 0.4 side side is severe [within 0.1 is desired] and will cause the car to self steer track off the center line. Shim to perfection
You did not supply the most important alignment reading :
THE THRUST ANGLE MUST BE 0.00 DEGREE
Was this alignment with you or your weight in drivers seat?
IMPORTANT PARAMETER
You did not supply the most important alignment reading :
THE THRUST ANGLE MUST BE 0.00 DEGREE
Was this alignment with you or your weight in drivers seat?
IMPORTANT PARAMETER
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: was: Long Island, NY -- Now: South FL
Thanks for the replys,
Godmans: I agree something is seriously wrong, though the car drives perfect no pulling or anything and I never had a suspension problem (or accident) prior to the new springs.
Gsedan35: I am going to go back there (firestone) and have them do another alignment. (I have the lifetime alignment deal) ... I will be on the tech hard to make sure he is doing everything right.
Q45Tech: Rear Thrust Angle:
-Before: .18 Degree
-After: 0.00 Degree
-Alignment done with no weight in the car.
*The Alignment Tech told me aftewards that he focused on getting the Toe in spec more than the Camber ... He said the Toe was more important.
Is this the right approach ??
I am sure he could get the Camber angles better at the expense of the Toe .. maybe I would end up with uneven Toe, but prob still in spec ... Is this a viable approach ?
Godmans: I agree something is seriously wrong, though the car drives perfect no pulling or anything and I never had a suspension problem (or accident) prior to the new springs.
Gsedan35: I am going to go back there (firestone) and have them do another alignment. (I have the lifetime alignment deal) ... I will be on the tech hard to make sure he is doing everything right.
Q45Tech: Rear Thrust Angle:
-Before: .18 Degree
-After: 0.00 Degree
-Alignment done with no weight in the car.
*The Alignment Tech told me aftewards that he focused on getting the Toe in spec more than the Camber ... He said the Toe was more important.
Is this the right approach ??
I am sure he could get the Camber angles better at the expense of the Toe .. maybe I would end up with uneven Toe, but prob still in spec ... Is this a viable approach ?
Last edited by yeahdickey; Apr 23, 2006 at 01:24 PM.
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
Alignment done with no weight in the car
How is it possible to drive the car without your weight being in it?
Life time alignment.............could not be called a precision perfect spot on alignment.
Owners standards vary good enough to drive[/B] vs perfect [Perfect cost money every 6 months plus usually a $20 tip in advance.
Very few alignment techs ever consider PERFECT in their vocabulary, most business want to provide good enough to be price competitive.
The 1 in 1,000 who want PERFECT [IDEAL] must pay extra for it.
Perfect does not come from factory in a $30,000 car, why there is such a broad wide range the tolerances of manufacturing and mostly assembly......then wear and tear to avoid warranty claims..........good enough to drive if the owner replaces tires frequently and doesn't care or have knowledge of such things.
How is it possible to drive the car without your weight being in it?
Life time alignment.............could not be called a precision perfect spot on alignment.
Owners standards vary good enough to drive[/B] vs perfect [Perfect cost money every 6 months plus usually a $20 tip in advance.
Very few alignment techs ever consider PERFECT in their vocabulary, most business want to provide good enough to be price competitive.
The 1 in 1,000 who want PERFECT [IDEAL] must pay extra for it.
Perfect does not come from factory in a $30,000 car, why there is such a broad wide range the tolerances of manufacturing and mostly assembly......then wear and tear to avoid warranty claims..........good enough to drive if the owner replaces tires frequently and doesn't care or have knowledge of such things.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
Camber is optimized first, then caster, then back to camber then back to caster..............when as good as you can get it then you do toe front and rear then read thrust angle the go back and forth several times.
A sold hour's hard work if you are good at your job.......and the car co-operates.
As the arm bushing [rubber] wear many times you must replace/shim things to get perfect.........can be expensive. Not covered by warranty unless way outside of range or if you ever hit anything..........id it has a rubber isolted bushing that is wear and tear so never covered.
Why do you think most cars depreciate all the unseen/measured wear.
By 100k cars are worth* 10-20 cents on the new MSRP amount unless they are special high demand bidded up models.
Don't confuse worth with what people want to sell them for!
A sold hour's hard work if you are good at your job.......and the car co-operates.
As the arm bushing [rubber] wear many times you must replace/shim things to get perfect.........can be expensive. Not covered by warranty unless way outside of range or if you ever hit anything..........id it has a rubber isolted bushing that is wear and tear so never covered.
Why do you think most cars depreciate all the unseen/measured wear.
By 100k cars are worth* 10-20 cents on the new MSRP amount unless they are special high demand bidded up models.
Don't confuse worth with what people want to sell them for!
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
What is SAFE? What is abnormal tread wear? Direction tires wear differently from non directionals.
Luckily most expensive Ultra Performance tires wear out before they become unsafe from the exponential rise in sudden failures [blowouts] that occurs after 20,000 miles in stressed tires.
More than negative -0.7 degree static camber with high caster will definitely wear the tire inside edges faster!
Each tire brand and size will react slightly differently to more negative camber, so impossible to create a camber vs wear graph for each car because the driving conditions/temperature load fitment [wheel width] vary so much.
Safe to say that a 2 degree negative camber could halve the life of a tire compared to -0.7 degree [experiences on other Infiniti over 16 years] just an educated guess.....mostly with Michelin lesser tires are usually much worse.
Luckily most expensive Ultra Performance tires wear out before they become unsafe from the exponential rise in sudden failures [blowouts] that occurs after 20,000 miles in stressed tires.
More than negative -0.7 degree static camber with high caster will definitely wear the tire inside edges faster!
Each tire brand and size will react slightly differently to more negative camber, so impossible to create a camber vs wear graph for each car because the driving conditions/temperature load fitment [wheel width] vary so much.
Safe to say that a 2 degree negative camber could halve the life of a tire compared to -0.7 degree [experiences on other Infiniti over 16 years] just an educated guess.....mostly with Michelin lesser tires are usually much worse.
Last edited by Q45tech; Apr 23, 2006 at 08:14 PM.
Originally Posted by Q45tech
A camber difference of 0.4 side side is severe [within 0.1 is desired] and will cause the car to self steer track off the center line. Shim to perfection
You did not supply the most important alignment reading :
THE THRUST ANGLE MUST BE 0.00 DEGREE
Was this alignment with you or your weight in drivers seat?
IMPORTANT PARAMETER
You did not supply the most important alignment reading :
THE THRUST ANGLE MUST BE 0.00 DEGREE
Was this alignment with you or your weight in drivers seat?
IMPORTANT PARAMETER
Last edited by Gsedan35; Apr 25, 2006 at 10:41 AM.
Originally Posted by yeahdickey
Thanks for the replys,
Godmans: I agree something is seriously wrong, though the car drives perfect no pulling or anything and I never had a suspension problem (or accident) prior to the new springs.
Gsedan35: I am going to go back there (firestone) and have them do another alignment. (I have the lifetime alignment deal) ... I will be on the tech hard to make sure he is doing everything right.
Q45Tech: Rear Thrust Angle:
-Before: .18 Degree
-After: 0.00 Degree
-Alignment done with no weight in the car.
*The Alignment Tech told me aftewards that he focused on getting the Toe in spec more than the Camber ... He said the Toe was more important.
Is this the right approach ??
I am sure he could get the Camber angles better at the expense of the Toe .. maybe I would end up with uneven Toe, but prob still in spec ... Is this a viable approach ?
Godmans: I agree something is seriously wrong, though the car drives perfect no pulling or anything and I never had a suspension problem (or accident) prior to the new springs.
Gsedan35: I am going to go back there (firestone) and have them do another alignment. (I have the lifetime alignment deal) ... I will be on the tech hard to make sure he is doing everything right.
Q45Tech: Rear Thrust Angle:
-Before: .18 Degree
-After: 0.00 Degree
-Alignment done with no weight in the car.
*The Alignment Tech told me aftewards that he focused on getting the Toe in spec more than the Camber ... He said the Toe was more important.
Is this the right approach ??
I am sure he could get the Camber angles better at the expense of the Toe .. maybe I would end up with uneven Toe, but prob still in spec ... Is this a viable approach ?
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: was: Long Island, NY -- Now: South FL
Going next week to get a RE-Alignment.
I spoke with a different Tech there and he agreed my results were out of wack ... I will post my results.
I spoke with a different Tech there and he agreed my results were out of wack ... I will post my results.
As wear and tear, alignment constantly changes; however, it is important to find a place that can do it properly...
For the camber problem that you have, I am not sure if your car does pull to one side; even my alignment is close to 350z spec, my car sometimes pull to right side, which is an indication that either my alignment is off or there is uneven tire wire..
For the camber problem that you have, I am not sure if your car does pull to one side; even my alignment is close to 350z spec, my car sometimes pull to right side, which is an indication that either my alignment is off or there is uneven tire wire..